Odd Braking Issue - Shaking bad at half braking. 2002 3.4L 4x4

Got this truck a few months back, did an entire brake job myself including calipers, lines, pads, rotors, and drums.

After a few hundred miles, it started shaking while I braked as if the rotors were warped. Took it to a reputable shop who informed me the rock auto drums and rotors I used looked to be used but cleaned & repackaged. Odd as I've never had an issue with them before, they were even the pricier option Power Stop branded components. They swapped with NAPA parts.

Issue was fixed for about 50 miles, then It started doing it again... I've tried tightening all bolts, adjusting the rear brakes, torqued my my wheels, and yet it's still persisting. I honestly can't tell if it's coming from the front or rear, or both. I called the shop who offered to replace again (under warranty) but I'm not sure that'll fix the issue. I'm also not located in the area where they were swapped, and won't be back for about 2 months

Any insight here?

 

If it’s front you should feel it in the steering wheel, if it’s rear you will feel it in the seats.

 

The entire truck itself feels like it's shaking. The steering wheel doesn't shake back & forth like it would with bad front rotors but you can definitely feel it within.

 

Did you clean up the hubs prior to installing the rotors? Clean/lube the slide pins? Any evidence of the caliper pistons being stuck or rusted? Each caliper has four of them.

Id look into a dial indicator to ensure your rotors/hubs are within spec.

This video outlines a few things maybe you haven’t looked into.
https://youtu.be/FtJXD4KD1dI?si=KGZwdTZfIb7-gQgE

 

How many miles on this truck?

 

Are the pads being bedded correctly right after installation?

https://aisinaftermarket.com/assets/blog/post/5220f6e50835d2ad464191ba5f2ba0ba.pdf

And are rears adjusted so fronts aren't overworked and "warp" or overheat to get uneven deposits?

To isolate testing rears and fronts, have applied parking brake instead of brake pedal to see if one or both cause the shaking.

BTW, just cause parts are swapped doesn't mean their true. FWIW, had an aftermarket set or rotors/pads that pulsed. So indexed on the hubs to find .0028" runout. LAPS swapped under warranty and indexed two new sets with similar results in some cases measuring like .002"-.0035". So bought Toyota rotors and pads. One rotor had undetectable runout and another measured <=.001" on the hubs, so used those.

To index rotors, consider:

• Starting by checking runout of hub. If the hub is true, then can bolt the rotors on the hub and check rotor runout.
• Checking the rotor by marking one stud and the rotor hat at the same starting position and measuring the runout.
• If not, then can rotate one lug and check again, repeating for each lug until you find the sweet spot where runout is minimized and in spec.
• If have hub runout, then if have disc runout on first try that matches the position on the hub where the runout occurred, consider swapping the disc 180 degrees on the hub to see if that fixes or exaggerates the disc runout - confirming if runout is from disc or just propagated from hub (or both). Sometimes hub and disc are both slightly off and can be mounted to offset each other.

BTW, if sure it's not brake related might consider other factors. FWIW oddly enough in one case when knew the brakes were within spec on a 1st gen Tundra (that has very similar braking system), dash shakes when braking not felt in the pedal went away after swapping a noisy rear wheel bearing with a little bit of play. Think it was a bit like a sticky bearing stutter step causing shimmy in dash!

 

You can pull on the parking brake lever to isolate the rear from the front, just dont pull it and lock the rear drums @ 90 mph.

 

Think steering wheel shake back and forth is alignment. Palsating brakes sometimes felt in pedal.