Odd odor under hood

Car serviced one month ago - nothing noted. Now has an odd odor coming from under hood. Smells more chemical in nature than anything else. No warning lights and fluid levels are normal. Temperature is normal. Belts appear to be in good shape and everything running well when hood is open. Runs well when driving.
Hand brake is not engaged.
4 cylinder, manual transmission. 2011, 14,000 miles.
Any thoughts before I take it in? Thanks.

 

Critter frying under hood???
Lol

 

Update. Had my wife smell under the hood and it seems to be strongest around the fuse box and the brake master cylinder (?)- (big round thing on the firewall connected to brake fluid).
No signs of leakage, no fluid on driveway, etc.
No dead animals. On that score I purchased three of those electronic beeping things years ago and no pests under hoods anymore.
Also checked for "burning" grocery bag on muffler, etc. and none. Had that several years ago and had to let it burn off.

 

Is it a sulfur smell?
Maybe the battery is cooking due to an internal short or the alternator overcharging?

 

probably got some fluid on the exhaust

 

Your electronic pest deterrent, is it connected to the trucks 12v source? Is it installed with a fuse?

Burnt wire insulation could be described as chemical. I’d loosen or disconnect the battery before poking around. If it decides to really smoke, you don’t want to be panicking trying to find a wrench.

 

It is battery operated and is actually located in the glove box which is right in front of the cabin filter. Probably been using it for five years or so.

 

More of an acrid smell. No odor coming from battery, but strong odor from around master cylinder area.

 

Took it to dealership today. Manual transmission clutch "burned out." $1,900 to replace it. 2011, but only has 14,800 miles on it so will do it. Military discount will cut the costs some.

 

The clutch is shot in 14,800 miles?
Something is wrong. Either there was a parts issue, or a driver issue.
Not to insult you, but a clutch should last longer than 15k miles.
There’s an issue somewhere, I’d start with finding out what caused the clutch to “burn up”.
Simply replacing the clutch may not “fix” the issue from reoccurring.

 

I think the problem is that we drive it about 80% of time in "city" traffic and trips of less than five miles. Do not leave in gear if stopped at traffic light, in traffic, etc.
Been driving manual cars for many, many years and never had a problem before. Fiats, Mazdas, Nissans, etc. and they were sports cars driven like sports cars. Also manual Mazda, Mitsubishi and Ford Ranger pick-ups. This is just a regular truck for very occasional hauling light loads or no loads.
Will probably complain to Toyota after it gest fixed, but don't expect any good to come of it.

 

Did call Toyota as they have closed out my Toyota Owners enrollment. No way to send an email to them. She said she would have dealer contact me(!) re: cost of repair. Then if not satisfied, I can call back and escalate to next level(!) I'm sure the dealer is going to cut me a substantial deal.

 

I would be curious to hear about this "substantial deal ".

 

ask for the old parts back

 

The dealership called within an hour and we discussed. He said once new parts come in, they will disassemble it and have a better idea of what happened and then call me. Sounds reasonable. As of now, I don't really expect the dealership to do anything, but may be surprised.

 

The truck is 12 years old.
They aren’t going to do anything about it.
You’re getting a clutch, and probably a flywheel too.
They “might” cut you a break on parts. Not likely to on labor.
Anytime you cut into labor, you’re taking away pay from the tech.
You’re not likely to get a break on labor, unless the tech and service advisor agrees to it.

If you need a clutch, you need a clutch.
Pay the person you think will do the best job and move on.
But I’d ask them to inspect everything really well. You don’t want this happening again (this soon)

 

First I have heard that tech has to lose money to reduce cost of a service. Regardless, I doubt he and service advisor have to agree to anything. It is up to the service manager and the general manager - at least in S.C. I once had a $300 repair done by a Honda and BMW dealership and a month later it failed and another dealer out of state had to fix it. The first service manager paid the full $1,000 cost, including the 75 mile towing. Didn't even have to contact the manufacturer. Service manager had them write a check while I sat there. No questions asked.
I learned a long time ago that if you don't ask, you don't get. But, if you do ask, you'll be surprised at what you might get. Also, "input" from the highest levels may help.

 

I guess as long as the tech is getting paid his book hours, or hourly, it doesn’t matter.
Most techs are book hours. If the dealership want to eat the cost on their end, fine.
But they can’t pull hours off a job if a tech is paid by book hours (Unless it’s warranty work. And warranty is a joke)

 

Got truck back and cost was $1,780 after senior and military discounts. Spoke with service customer assistance person and then general manager. Just so I could tell Toyota consumer enhancement person that I did. Raised it to Tier 2 with Toyota and they are reviewing case and will let me know in a week.
Did go online and finally found mailing address for CEO in Plano, Texas. So will write to him if they turn it down.
Dealer guy showed me the parts and some "bluing" on flywheel and clutch cover. Otherwise, all normal. They inspected clutch pedal and everything else - normal.
Having owned seven cars and three trucks with manual transmissions and zero clutch problems, I am still convinced there is a design, manufacturing or assembly problem. Shouldn't have suddenly failed at 14,800 miles, regardless of age.
Thanks for all the comments.

 

Depending on the severity of the bluing, they may (likely) deny the warranty. Some “light” bluing or blue “tinging” can be expected, but dark blue spots are signs of excessive heat. Which means the clutch was slipping. Whether it be from riding the clutch too long , or a weak pressure plate allowing the clutch to slip.

It will be interesting to see what they say.