OEM Audio + vs Crutchfield cart build

Hows it going guys,

Been searching in the forums for some sound upgrades. have found some really good info. The $250 thread was nice but it does not have a sub or AMP. ( I know you can add to that set up)

I would like to add a sub behind the rear seat for some killer bass. And an AMP for some more power. I have the stock ENTUNE head with my 2015 doable cab.

Found the OEM product thru one of the threads here and it looked ideal. speakers, amp, sub. looks like the cost is $1,550 with delivery. I found crutchfield on here, and spoke with one of the reps and they built out this cart. https://www.crutchfield.com/cart/default.aspx total $1,432. i do have the cash and dont mind spending it for some quality sound

my question is, is it worth it to just spend the extra cash to get the OEM, is it that much better? or does that cart look better with less money and better specs ( by the look of it ).

any info/recommendations will help. Thanks in advance for yalls time.

 

I don’t have it but if it was me, in that price range $100 won’t hurt. I’d go with someone that’s tested and proven rather than something that hasn’t been hear much. My .02.

 

That link doesn’t show the actual cart. Take screenshots or pictures of the cart, or link to the items

 

your saying the OEM is tested and proven? thats the set up you would go with ?

 

My bad

Here are the links

sub - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13694557/JL-Audio-Stealthbox-Black.html
amp - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMDX975/Pioneer-GM-DX975.html
front - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB6502/Polk-Audio-DB-6502.html
rear - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB652/Polk-Audio-DB-652.html
wiring - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK4/Crutchfield-CK4.html

 

That stealth box is very expensive. You can cut the cost in half with a JL10TW1 and a box from Mr. Marv or supercrew sound. Still sounds excellent.

 

awesome! thanks man. is Mr Marc / supercrew members on here? do they sell custom boxes?

 

That sub setup is steep to me, but I’ve been doing car audio work for almost twenty years. I’d buy a sub, build a box, and come out a LOT cheaper, if you have some basic wood working skills.

Insofar as speakers, listen to a set before you buy. You can tweak a lot with a decent EQ, but a lot of how speakers sound is kinda subjective. Personally, I love Infinity but you have to dial the tweeters back cause they are crazy bright. Alpine’s are good to my ears as well, more balanced, just need to give them the power they want.

Also, I see no mention of how you’re moving signal to the amps? If you’re using the built in high level inputs I’d highly recommend you grab signal from a front speaker (rears on many vehicles are highly attenuated) or use a line driver to convert to pre amp/low level inputs and run RCA’s.

What’s your level of experience?

 

PM @Mr Marv for a quote on a custom box. He can do whatever you need.


SuperCrewSound is an online store and they have a few boxes they build to order.

 

Zero. that why im looking for something fairly simple to install. Yeah the sub set sounded expensive. Thats the only one they had on Crutchfield ready to go. so for the OEM audio + prices, i can get better quality for that $ amount?

"Also, I see no mention of how you’re moving signal to the amps? If you’re using the built in high level inputs I’d highly recommend you grab signal from a front speaker (rears on many vehicles are highly attenuated) or use a line driver to convert to pre amp/low level inputs and run RCA’s." ----honestly have no idea here. are you talking about some type of controls to equalize the sound. knobs etc...

 

Thank you dude.

 

Personally, I bought the JL C-2 component speakers and I haven’t amplified them and they sound great amazing. I have a custom sub box with a JL 10TW1 and a JL JX500 mono amp. Install was super simple, but had I amplified the speakers it would have been a little tougher. I bought metra plug and play adapters for the speakers. I already have an aftermarket headunit so running RCA’s was simple, since you have the stock headunit, you’ll need a line output converter to send the signal to the amp, then run speaker wire from the amp to each individual speaker and the sub.

 

High level/speaker level - signal that is already amplified by the head unit. Without some amplification (even your factory deck has a tiny amp inside) you’d never move the speakers.

Low level/pre amp - pre amplified signal. Usually a cleaner option because every time you amplify and then cut the signs back down you can introduce some more distortion.

That said, using the factory deck you’re either going to knock the signal down at the head with a line driver/eq/processor or at the amp (the high level input, is basically an internal line driver).

My advice, either build the system more slowly if you want to learn, or pay a pro because this is a fairly hefty install with a lot of opportunity for good ups, and a lot of knobs to tune to make it work well. I could/have done an install this involved, but I sure didn’t try it my first time.

My first system was a head, door speakers, amp and two subs, all put together a piece at a time.

My last system was a JL four channel, components, a hundred yards of wiring (practically) rewiring the whole car, Sundown SA12 in a custom ported box (used WinISD to design it and built it myself), set all the gains, tuned the equalizer, set the time delay. It was a lot.

 

so you use your amp just for the sub? and have plug and play adapters for you door speakers? make sense you have to wire the speakers to the amp for them to work. (I have zero experience, excuse my ignorance -__- )

 

gotcha man thanks for the advice. So it sounds like if i get them individual on crutchfield it would be a hefty install. in over my head.

So to get that type of upgrade it best to go with the OEM +? i just saw the install video and it looks doable.

I called a few local shops in the past couple of days and they were slimy dudes and expensive.

 

Don’t worry lol I researched for days. And yes, my amp only powers my sub. The speakers run off the headunit power and factory wiring

 

that sounds more doable that wiring each speaker to the amp. So plug and play for the 4 doors and tweeters. Mount the amp and wire the sub to it and to the battery and behind the head? how much was your total setup if you dont mind me asking.

 

OEM Audio is great because it is already tuned with a DSP for our trucks. Its not so great because for that price you end up with a good sounding system that lacks a bit on total volume output.

You can build a better system in terms of volume level for less. Building a better sound quality will likely end up as a toss up for price, however, at the same price the quality will be better.

My system is a comp. set of Morels in front, coax Morels rear, 300W 12" Fosgate sub, 100Wx4 Pioneer GM-D8604 amp and KW 6905s head unit. Total was ~ $1100 or $1200. Its significantly louder than the OEM+ and sounds better too, but it was a lot more work. Time is money too.

Good luck with your choice.

 

That’s the route I’d go for a first timer. Door speakers, add an amp and sub afterwards. A four channel amp adds a fair bit of complexity and extra wiring, not to mention either running two power wires or running one and splitting it, running wire to the speakers.

 

Yep! I honestly don’t remember too well how much I paid. My headunit was $350, speakers were $400-$500 front and rear, sub box was $150, amp was $200, wiring kit was $100, and the sub was $300 I think. Throw in another $50 or so for the plug and play adapters, speaker wire, etc. I pieced everything together over time to break up the initial cost.