OEM Inverter Install

Hey sorry for the lack of updates. I haven't been able to work on this due to a number of things. I've been trying to collect everything I need for checking the valves and belts on my Ducati and the Tacoma has kind of taken a back seat. Once the temperature warms up, I'll be able to take the dash apart and trace the switch wires to wherever they go.

I also smashed my towing wiring off the bumper while wheeling a while ago and moved that up beside the license plate. Cutting a hole in the bumper was a little terrifying. Also my needle bearing decided to go, so I built myself the removal tool and ordered the ECGS bushing and did that replacement.

 

Any updates @Neveraeon

 

Hey Everyone,

Since it looks like the op is MIA.. I'm going to do everyone here a favor and finish this write up.

Things you will need:
100amp relay
100amp breaker
8g wire
16g wire
Some common sense

After doing all the above from the OP, you now have a blue wire in the engine bay and no where to plug it into.

You will use the 8g wire to extend this to however long you need this mount in a place of your choosing I would recommend right behind the fuse box on the driver side.

Once you have the wiring routed. Connect it to the 100amp relay. On the other side of the relay, connect some 8g wire from the relay to the breaker, then breaker to the + on your battery. (You can also use the OEM fuse box and install the OEM 100amp fuse and wire it there instead of the breaker, but it's a pita to install and change the fuse.)

Now you should have 2 wires left to trigger the relay. Use 16g wire and tap into the red wire on the back of the switch, you're going to have to fish this through the fire wall. The red wire is your 400w and has 12v when car is in the on position and parked. When you press the button this wire will ground out.

Great one wire to go and your on your way to getting the inverter working. This is an easy one. You now need to find a wire that has 12v when the car is on( it's important that this wire only has current when your car is on otherwise the button will stay lit up even when the car is off, causing your battery to drain.) The blue wire behind the oem switch will provide power when button is pressed. I use this wire.

Now you have a working OEM inverter.
Note like factory this only works when the key is in the on position and you are in park or neutral. I believe you are always on 400w with this setup, plugged a power drill in and it worked like a charm.

Hope this helps my fellow taco owners who are doing this upgrade.

Note: I have a 2.7L 4 cylinder so your install may vary a bit.

I'm almost never on this form, so if you have any questions about this install feel free to DM me on IG @touge.masters

Always happy to help.

Here's some pics.

 

For any of you that want to do what I did (go full OEM), I know I'm crazy. Figure I'd let you know where the wires go from the relay in through the firewall.
The first picture shows the location of plug IA4 (Red circle), the blue wire goes to pin location #2 and the Instrument panel J/B (Yellow circle), they are behind the kick plate by the dead pedal.


The next picture shows the back of the J/B, the red circle shows where the light green wire goes. It is visible in the image above.

 

This thread has come a long way. Has anyone else tried installing an inverter but going in the OEM route? If so, do you have a video on how to or detailed pictures? I have a 2009 regular cab i’m wanting to install one into. Thank you.

 

It's been awhile but from what I researched it'll be easier and you'll get a better product/end result/inverter if you don't go the OEM route.

Like I said it's been awhile and I don't think I ever found step by step instructions. Also some trucks have certain parts and adapters that others are missing if that makes any sense

 

its not hard, you just have to take the front panels off first with the cup holders and all that. there is just a few screws. remember to unscrew the gear shift knob. then under the felt in the console there is a couple of screws. id highly suggest going after market and adding an in cab socket while your in there. I bought one of these, but have not installed it yet. I like the idea of being able to push the plug through and screw it from the backside to secure it instead on having screws on the face plate.

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if this helps this is what it looks like taken apart

 

FYI the OEM inverter are MODIFIED SINE, they are not PURE SINE inverters. If you are just going to be running some lights or a device that uses a charger or a power supply, like a laptop (anything that has a power brick on the cord) you are ok with a modified sine inverter. If you are running anything important, delicate or that uses electric motors modified sine inverters are very rough on them. Like when you run your appliances or other delicate stuff off of a regular old fashion generator when the power goes out. Yes, it works, but it is very bad for your appliances. If you dont have an OEM inverter, man, just buy a good pure sign inverter, mount it under the seat and be done with it. You will be much happier.