OEM LCA Camber (CAM) Alignment Bolts Removal (Frozen/Rusted), Best methods?

I'm in this boat right now replacing everything on the front end.... and it all started when I wanted to change my struts and found out my ball joint is shot on the passenger side. What blades has everyone had the best luck with? I will be headed to the home depot tomorrow for blades and also a hacksaw for backup as I assume slow and steady is the way to go with hardened steel.

 

Good video, thanks. Will need to do this soon. Cams bolts are completely seized.

 

Just dealt w same thing. Bolts are a no go. Thankfully lca’s will be the last part of stock suspension left on my rusty beater. They are getting the old grinder w cutting blade tactic and new cams and lca’s. Shitty when you get new wheels and can’t even drive the truck!

 

Reviving this old thread!
My cam bolts are frozen as-well. I was able to remove the front bolts but the long sleeved one is definitely stuck... With both sides of the bolt cut off has anyone had success pressing out the inner sleeve from the LCA?

 

Yup.
1. Cut out the cam bolts with a Sawzall and metal cutting "torch" blades from milwaukee
2. Heat and Press out old bushings
3. Replace with energy suspension bushings
4. Buy new OEM cam bolts and antiseize the shit out of them.
5. Put everything back together and bobs your uncle.

 

Would there be any benefit to lathering up the new cam bolts and sleeves with anti seize before you put them on?
Seems like no one likes the aftermarket grease able ones at all.

 

Absolutely yes. Even though I do not have any experience with aftermarket cam bolts that are greasable, I have heard that they do not last. OEM cam bolts are the way to go and antiseize the crap out of them before install.

 

Living in Toronto Canada we off course get salted (and brine'd) to death during the winter. Hoping maybe the yearly krown oil sprays may have kept the rust on those to a minimum but would like to hope for the best and plan for the worst when the day comes to freshen up the suspension.

 

Just to give you an idea how quickly the OEM bolts start to corrode in an area where road salt is used, here's one out of my 2021 4Runner after only 3 months / one winter. Why did we pull it - and all of the others - out? To apply a liberal coating of Never Seize to the shank area that rides inside the bushing in the LCA. No aftermarket rustproofing is going to reach this critical area. And yes, after we put everything back together, it was off to the alignment shop.

 

And mine is a 2015 so I think I will just put that nightmare out of my mind until I have to deal with it.

 

Sadly, you are most likely 100% correct.

 

Well thankfully I have learned from the many others here who have been through this what to expect and how to get past it.. Figure when it comes time I will be doing the whole thing with new parts anyway so having to sawzall the suckers out of there is just the price of admission...