OEM Looking Garage Door Button/Opener Hack...

And this won’t fry a 3v opener remote?

 

ive been using mine for a few years now.. I checked by outputs to the garage door opener with ohms and that's how you complete your switch.

 

Hmm, okay I’ll give it a shot later today and check it out. Thanks

 

Welcome. Keep me posted. Btw. Be sure to hook that power wire to a ignition switched power source (or fuse)

 

any luck?

 

Sick kiddo meant I didn’t get to it as planned. I’ll make time soon and report back.

 

Had some free time tonight and got it wired up. Worked like a charm. Thanks again @SixtyDashOne

 

ahh, that's what I like to hear!! im glad.. I never had any doubts

 

Has anybody considered using a dual momentary rocker? This might get you two garages out of the same switch. We have two garages, and some might have that plus a gate.

 

You could do that as well

Btw. 4x4ch.com makes custom buttons (make jt say whatever u want) so if you actually wanted to do two buttons for two different openers you could do that also. And make the writing “Left Door” & “Right Door” etc

 

Ordered the with today ... will do the mod soon ... Liking this forum ... you guys are great.

One question though, how do you get the fuelly stats in the signature????

 

Go to your fuely profile and it can generate an http: link you can paste into your sig.

 

I have two garage doors. Just ordered two AOB switches. Planning to connect to my keychain liftmaster remote since it’s a super small form factor and has 3 buttons, then stash in the overhead switch bay. Don’t really want to mess with a relay just to have it light up when pressed I think, I usually look at the door to see if it’s moving instead of the remote to see if it’s transmitting. I’m also thinking of just using the 3v 2032 battery vs a step down, it should last several years and I don’t really want to source 12v power to the overhead bay.

Illumination, though, would be cool. I’m guessing we can run quite a few extra switches on the factory dimmer circuit without any real trouble since they are low power LED’s? And the illumination is fully independent from the switch circuit? Seems like it would have to be.

I was also contemplating a super stealth approach of using my existing clutch start cancel switch and unplugging it’s stock harness, but I kind of like the semi stealth custom button best for when the wife or others use the truck. That and I have two single doors so it’s nice to be able to open just one depending on the situation.

It’s not so much that the homelink mirrors are expensive (they are) or that replacing a perfectly fine factory mirror is kind of wasteful (maybe an idiosyncrasy for me) but more of a “this is cool” sort of thing given the many locations for extra switches and the fact that we can get these really nice looking custom switches so easily.

 

Got this nearly done over the weekend. Waiting for the final piece, a T harness for the 24 pin connector to supply illumination. Otherwise fully functional and working exactly as laid out by OP. Thanks for the idea!

 

Btw i stand behind my above drawing, but if anyone wants a simplified drawing of using this method with a bosch relay; i made another drawing for that in unison with an AOB/MicTuning momentary switch

 

Needs some explaining Lucy - I just ordered the switch. Love to have light working also

 

The one upside of using a relay is you get the light on when you push the switch in since you have the expected 12v. I haven't checked to see if mine light up when pressed (mine are soldered directly) though I also have not checked polarity and may very well have it swapped. Since they are momentary, though, and since my fingers aren't tiny, being able to see them light up when pressed holds no real value for me, definitely not enough to bother sourcing fused +12v to the overhead console (where mine are located) and/or stashing 3 relays somewhere. Hat tip to you for a comprehensive solution though, I like it.

For switch illumination there are good options depending on location. Overhead can employ a T off the 24 pin, driver cubby can T off cargo and lower switch panel can T off several options, kmorgan3 has all of these and several more.

 

Thank u buddy. Yeah i have big gorilla mitts for fingers as well; so i employed the earlier wiring that i showed in post#41 for my current setup. However I understand that everyone has different preferences; so i posted em both. Plus i like to make drawings because i am a nerd lol

 

I've only read a few post's in this thread. But have seen a couple remarks about the 3V battery in the remote. I changed my battery a few weeks ago and was surprised to see that it was actually 12V. Small cylinder battery about as fat as a AA but 1/2 the length. Just thought it was interesting.