OEM to Air On Board Fog Light Switch Wiring

with the wires to the switch wired like, it will leave you with just a lit switch.... (later) if you happened to swap out the switch with a simple rocker switch, you would short out the switch wires.

you need a third wire to run back to the relay pin 86 for the switch.

wire from pin 30 would be a constant 12 volts from the battery
wire from pin 85 would provide the ground for the top light in the switch
wire from pin 86 would provide power from the switch (from pin 30) and active the relay and indicator light when switch is in the "on" position

 

yeah sorry about that. I definitely will have the third wire going to pin 86. I just left it off of my description for simplicity. So it sounds like if I wanted to run power and ground directly from the relay to the switch I could? I just do not like tapping into other power souces if I can help it.

 

hmmm, this seems inconsistent with what the manufacturer says. Why would you wire it this way? Also, it seems like all of your diagrams show 30/87 and 85/86 switched from standard relay wiring diagrams. Am I missing something?

 

the way he is purposing it to be wired does work... that way has the circuit being controlled on the ground side and you are having only two wires running through the firewall.

My question to you is, do you want the lights to operate with the keys not in the ignition?

Most will want the relay to be controlled by a wire that only receives power when the truck is on.

 

Yes. I want my switches hot even with ignition off.

 

Better know what you're doing

 

Sure... I think you're starting to loose it my friend

 

Lol I do but figured I could check out if other people had the same issue or just my lacking in skills. It was a breeze of fresh air to see you too asked on this thread only three months ago
Trust you man

 

For electrical fires so we're good

 

Researching a few things, which is right? The above one or below?

 

i know this is a little old but.... but what are you exactly researching? both can be right, depending on application needed.

 

So I purchased a Mictuning push switch that is pretty much the same as the AOB switch, and I got it all wired up except for the wire that hooks up to your parking lights or dash lights for illumination. Anyone know where that wires is at? And after I got it all hooked up the switch worked and was only illuminated when pressed in, but after a little bit of use the illumination when pressed in stopped working, but the light bar itself still turned on. Any ideas?

 

it depends on the quality of the switch.... but it sounds like either the bulb burnt out of it has lost a physical connection internally.

for the parking lights, use an ADD-a-circuit and plug it into the LAMP fuse slot. this will provide the power side for the switch to light up when you flip the lights on.

 

I know this is an old one, but it is directly what I am stuck on now.

I swapped 2 other AOB switches for me front light bar and they work great. The lower comes on and dims when I dim the board. The Upper comes on when I press the switch and the lights come on.

I follow the same wiring with replacing the Fog light and I ave problems. I can get the lower to light up with the dash lights and dim. When I press the button the top won't light. But....if I remove the wire going to the Fog light relay, the Emblem comes on, but the Fog lights go off.

Any thoughts on what I am missing on this?

 

Are you replacing the stock foglight switch with an AOB one?

 

Yup.

Basically, if I wire it the way the print shows the fog lights will come on but the symbol will not. If I swap the green wire and the red wire then the symbol will stay on and go off when the fog lights come on, so reversed of what it should be.

I took a meter to all my wires and there doesn't seem to be anything fishy there. One wire (blue) is getting 12vDC when I turn on the headlights and the other wire (Wht/Blk) is reading to Grnd. The writing part of the button works just fine and comes on with the dash lights and dims with them, so I know my wiring there is good.

I wonder if this is a grounding issue. The AOB switch has the switch operating as the supply to the relay while, from what prints I can find, the stock switch is in fact after the relay supplying the ground.

 

ok a progress update.

It appears that the AOB button shares a common ground for both the lights. The problem occurs when the switch is activated. The factory circuit puts the switch after the relay coil which makes the switch just providing ground. When this occurs it basically shorts out the diode it seems since the switch is designed to provide the power to the coil, not after it.

I am going to try to add a resistor in line that matches the impedance of the relay coil. This should merely be a "false" coil in the circuit and remove the short when activated. Update when I do it.


EDIT:

Solved. It was a grounding issue. After checking the resistance on my light bar relay I found a resistor that was fairly close. The relay was coming in at 88.2 ohms and the resistor I added was 82 ohms. The green wire coming out of the OAB harness was where I placed the resistor before splicing it to the truck end. Works all as it should now.

 

Because of the common ground in the AOB switch, you cannot hook up the switch to the factory illumination wires. The factory switch has a separate circuit for the Illumination. This requires separate power and ground wires dedicated to the "dimmable" bulb in the switch.

A straight swap out of the switch will induce voltage into the illumination circuit.

I'm surprised you haven't blown a fuse or burned out the rheostat.

 

Well I most likely haven't burned out anything because so far I have only been driving during the day, so I guess that is good luck there.

There has to be a way to get this to work though other than putting in a pilot relay to pick the Fog Lights. I can't be the only guy who has installed this switch and had it work the way it should have. Any thoughts on how to go about this?

After thought: Sitting here looking at the manf print I don't really see how what I did differs from anything else they have drawn out. I mean I really understand the dual ground but maybe I am wrong about how they went about doing it inside the switch. I just assumed shared LED ground because when the symbol is on, it dims too. I am almost tempted to buy another button and open it up to see how they have it laid out in there.