OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

It all depends on how long or how much wear there is. You can't tell until its pulled all apart. Bummer. I just bought a reman cvj axle in case.

Anyone know of any tutorial videos? I couldn't find anything specific for our trucks on YouTube.

 

A list of all the tools and sizes required would be great. I'd hate to start pulling things apart and get stuck because I'm missing the "right" size socket or something like that.

Anyone?

 

You need the removal tool/puller, a 35mm socket for the axle nut, a 29mm socket (or the race driver from ECGS) to seat the new bushing, a hammer and large screwdriver for CV shaft removal/installation, and standard metric sockets up to 22mm. A breaker bar for the axle nut doesn't hurt either...

Don't listen to the guys who told you they did it in an hour - they probably have power tools and wrench a lot (or I am very slow haha). Took me about 3.5 hours of work with hand tools in my garage including a trip to AutoZone for the 29mm socket. After doing it the first time I would say I could do it in about an hour and a half now though.

Check out ECGS's website or facebook page for the install video.

 

I was using the puller tool and the cage that holds the needle bearing disintegrated. Now I am having a hard time pulling the old bearing. Not sure what my other options are at this point. All of the rollers in the bearing came out with the cage.

 

I had a spear cv axle just incase. We did two bushing today and only mine needed to be replaced. It had 4 lines cut in it. That toll list is pretty good but it could have went a little easier with a piece of 2" PVC pipe for the seal install. And make sure you got gear oil to replace. Sorry we didnt take pics. But the install notes from chase is pretty self explanatory if your read it while you go.

 

I believe it's a 6 mm . I can go Double check hold on

Edit .. 10 mm on mine

 

10mm, both the drain and fill. If 10mm doesn't fit, don't try a smaller size, you'll strip the inside of the plug and have more problems. Just beat the 10mm in a lil. I'll be down through your area to pick up my son on the 13th, and I'm still thinking bout picking up those running boards. I'll let you know about the middle of the week.

10mm, and if you need any more tech support, just hit me up.

 

10mm hex for fill and drain plug on front diff.
35mm or I think standard equivilent is 1 1/4 socket for axle nut (173ftlbs)
Use the back end of that socket to drive the new bushing in(should be slightly larger than the bushing so you flush it against race)
22mm wrench for bearing removal tool
21mm socket for wheel lug nuts(85ftlbs)
19mm socket for upper ball joint(81ftlbs)
tie rod end(67ftlbs)
lower ball joint to knuckle bolts(118ftlbs)
17mm socket for stabilizer bar link to knuckle nut(just snugged, not more than 20ftlbs)
brake caliper mounting bolts(as tight as you can get em' with a normal ratchet.
12mm socket for brakeline/wheel speed sensor wire mount to knuckle(just snug)
10mm socket for brakeline/wheel speed sensor wire mount to UCA(just snug)
Flat head screwdriver to depress tab holding pig tail to wheel speed sensor, and to pry off axle cap on hub.
2" pvc pipe and block of wood to drive new axle seal in
pry bar to pop axle from differential
Brass drift or block of wood and hammer to pop axle from hub. (If you use regular hammer or anything harder than the metal of the axle shaft, the shaft will turn egg shaped and make removing it difficult, and installing nut difficult.
Needle nose pliers for cotter pins
WD 40 or equivilent to pre treat nuts n bolts(trust me, it helped alot)
Red loctite for bolts that you don't want coming out for a long time(not bolts with cotter pins)
Anti-sieze for bolts that may see corrosion in the future, or are already corroded.
Torque wrench that goes up to at least 173ftlbs
Pitman arm puller for upper ball joint(advance auto for $17)
Pitman arm/tie rod end puller for tie rod(pep boys for $15)
Some extension bars for your ratchets and sockets.
Breaker bars, cheater bars, or impact gun for the tough stuff.
2+ qts of gear oil(75w90) and a pumper($9) to get it in easy.
A second person for that third hand that we always need(Thanks again Adam)

If I missed anything, please feel free to add to the list.

 

I only had the vibration for about 6,000 miles and I had no sign of wear on the cv.

 

30k and no wear.

 

I was against lifting my Taco due to vibration problems of many forum members, until a found this thread. Now I can't wait.

Now I have to convince myself that I can install the lift kit myself. Roughly, how much would it cost if I had a good shop lift it for me? I do need to spend some money on some tools such as: stands, torque wrench etc.

I want a 3" lift. No spacers.

 

Anyone know if the diff drop is necessary after installing the bushing? I just put on my lift, and i'm installing my bushing tomorrow. Actually installing 4.88 gears with the bushing installed in the new front diff by ECGS.

I noticed that my vibes started after I installed the diff kit. I drove around for about 100 miles without the diff drop kit after installing my ultimate lift kit and it was completely quiet. As soon as I installed the diff drop kit thats when the noise started.

 

I would install the diff drop, just bc I do notice a slight improvement of the angles. And It doesnt matter if you have it in or dont. Its all personal preference. Some dont like having the diff drop.

 

I'm having a hard time getting the CVJ out of the diff. I don't have a slide hammer. My skid plate is in the way for a better angle to knock it out, but still it's not a great angle even without the plate, just from the angle of the diff itself.

Any other ideas besides a slide hammer? Even with a slide hammer it looks like the spindle would not to be completely out of the way.

HELP!!! My truck is on stands as I type this.

 

When you look between the axle and the diff, you will notice a dust shield(will be a golden color). Use a screw driver to pry it toward the diff. This will give you more bite with a pry bar once that is out of the way. What you are working against is a little asshole of a C clip on the axle. If you look at your new one, you will see. The clip is easier to release and install if the ends are facing down. So you may need to turn your axle in order to achieve this, but since you can't actually see it inside the diff, it's just a guess. Get a large pry bar, and stick it between the axle and the diff where that dust shield was. I was toward the rear of the diff using the bracket that holds the diff to the truck as leverage to pop the axle out. It took quite a bit of force, but I got it. When you install the new axle, make sure the ends of the C ckip are facing down and don't hit any part of it directly with a hammer, use a block of wood or a brass drift to pop the new one in. Any other questions, just hit me up.

 

Cool an answer. I'm going to try prying off the brass shield then and get the pry bar in there deeper. That shield is giving me problems as I'm trying not to bend it.

Prayer is a good thing on Easter eve...

 

There should be a new one on the new axle. But better not to damage anything.

 

How far should the bushing go in? It's wider than the OE needle bearing.

Its now 1am. HELP again!!

 

Flush with the race. I used the axle nut socket flipped backwards to drive it. That way it is slightly larger than the bushing and it fits inside the race circle, but not smaller than the race so not to drive the bushing too far.

 

Well I replaced my entire front diff through the exchange program with ECGS, the new diff had 4.88's and the bushing installed already by chase. I had a lot of problems getting the halfshafts out of the diff I eventually resorted to taking a crowbar, jamming it in between the shaft and the diff and kicking it while laying on my back. That got it to pop, then I tapped it the rest of the way out with a drift. I was able to tap the dust shield back into shape with a small deadblow hammer.

The 4.88's made a huge difference, the bushing was icing on the cake, Everything drives just like stock with the 33's on there. Nice and quiet.