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OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by BenWA, Apr 17, 2011.

  1. Sep 13, 2013 at 4:39 PM
    #1241
    Greatwhite

    Greatwhite New Member

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    Taco guy11, I would gladly take you up on your offer. PM me your contact info & I will get the freight cost to you immediately. Much appreciated.
     
  2. Sep 13, 2013 at 4:50 PM
    #1242
    05Moose

    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    In the snow (NorCal)
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    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 (LSD & Tow Pkg), Timbrens, AAL, 5100s (.85), Owned: 12/3/04 Mods: Fog, Map/Dome Light, Illuminated 4wd Switch, Washable Cabin Air Filter
    ^ This, Ken.
     
  3. Sep 19, 2013 at 5:47 PM
    #1243
    jcf1

    jcf1 Member

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    Tucson
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    The dealer told me there was a fix on my vibration and growling problem but because I had a claim with corporate they could not start the repair until corporate contacted them. I asked what the fix was and they did not know. Corporate contacted me and said there is no fix, that the engineer said if there was aproblem it was due to the lift and tire size ( 285/70R17 ) I told them that it started a month after the lift, and the tires were still the same at that time, that desert toyota told me the factory tires were causing the problem. They only had 6000 miles on them and that I spent $ 1600 dollars with no change in the noise or vibration. They did say my truck was still under warrenty. I'm taking it to 4 wheel parts in two weeks and they are going to go through it. Let me add that the service writer and their machanic at Desert said they felt it and heard it, but every time they put it on the rack and give it back, it drives like driving on glass for a 100 miles or so, any ideas???
     
  4. Sep 19, 2013 at 5:50 PM
    #1244
    keninsb

    keninsb "Senior", Senior Member

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    Ken
    Goleta, CA
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    Thanks guys, much appreciated. I thought it might be one of those "subtle design failures".
    Thanks again,
    Ken
     
  5. Sep 24, 2013 at 3:36 AM
    #1245
    Inverno4

    Inverno4 Well-Known Member

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    Baltimore, MD
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    I installed the ECGS bearing on my 1st gen and am noticing a vibration at all speeds but most notably at 60-70 mph. Also when I just lightly hit the gas or decelerate, there is a feeling of something rubbing (metal on metal) on the floor. Is it possible that I pushed the bushing in too far and its making contact with the spline gears? Is this dangerous in any way? None of these symptoms were present until I installed the new ECGS bushing.
     
  6. Sep 24, 2013 at 6:24 AM
    #1246
    Taco'09

    Taco'09 Well-Known Member

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    ^^ Yep, you can drive the bushing in too far and hit the spider gears. I trust that you did not check for that with a feeler gauge or something. Oh well, coulda, woulda, shoulda....

    If I were you I would pull the drain plug on the differential and see if tiny metal particles or gray metallic goo stuff is starting to accumulate. If this stuff is growing on the magnet you might be able to save the front diff. by doing repeated changes of the lube and monitor it like a hawk. Drain, refill, drive short distances, repeat. Then do it again and again and again.... If you got larger metal shavings, you got a problem.

    Jack the truck up the turn the left tire by hand and listen carefully for a noise coming from that area. Also, don't forget to look at the brake shield (often bent and contacts disc) and other parts for rubbing.
     
  7. Sep 24, 2013 at 7:51 AM
    #1247
    Inverno4

    Inverno4 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks a ton. I didn't mention that I also replaced the cv axle at the same time as the ecgs bushing. Starting to wonder if the reman cv is bad?
     
  8. Sep 29, 2013 at 9:59 AM
    #1248
    Moballer

    Moballer Member

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    Revtek Lift,
    Anyone in British Columbia interested in selling the bearing puller tool from ECGS?
     
  9. Sep 30, 2013 at 9:07 PM
    #1249
    VE7OSR

    VE7OSR 'interfering with Natural Selection since 1990'

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    Okanagan, Canada
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    05 DCLB TRD Sport
    Armour: All-Pro Skid plates - IFS, transmission, and transfer case. Pelfreybilt rear standard plate bumper Front Suspension: OME 885 + NitroCharger 9000 shocks + 1/2" spacers for a 3" lift. Superbumps replacing stock bumpstops. Camburg ball joint UCA SS braid brake lines Rear Suspension: All-Pro Expedition rear leafs, Walker Evans 27" rear shocks, extended rear brake lines (Wheelers Offroad), U -bolt flip kit, rear Timbren bumpstops. Interior: Weatherteck floor liners - front, Wet Okoles- front, ScanGauge, LED interior & map lights. Power moonroof. Exterior: Raider Cobra canopy, PIAA bulbs, LED bulbs all around, modified flasher unit for LEDs Rear diff breather mod. Front diff vibe problem, driver's side needle bearing replaced with ECGS bushing. yet to install: HID Blazer Fog Retrofit, LED Flood & Spot, + switches, fuse panel. Metal Tech Sliders w/ kickout and dimple die filler plates. swaybar relocate blocks (build my own)
    i could loan you mine, i'm in Kelowna, though if you have a pre-runner you don't have this problemo.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2013
  10. Sep 30, 2013 at 9:27 PM
    #1250
    VE7OSR

    VE7OSR 'interfering with Natural Selection since 1990'

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    Okanagan, Canada
    Vehicle:
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    Armour: All-Pro Skid plates - IFS, transmission, and transfer case. Pelfreybilt rear standard plate bumper Front Suspension: OME 885 + NitroCharger 9000 shocks + 1/2" spacers for a 3" lift. Superbumps replacing stock bumpstops. Camburg ball joint UCA SS braid brake lines Rear Suspension: All-Pro Expedition rear leafs, Walker Evans 27" rear shocks, extended rear brake lines (Wheelers Offroad), U -bolt flip kit, rear Timbren bumpstops. Interior: Weatherteck floor liners - front, Wet Okoles- front, ScanGauge, LED interior & map lights. Power moonroof. Exterior: Raider Cobra canopy, PIAA bulbs, LED bulbs all around, modified flasher unit for LEDs Rear diff breather mod. Front diff vibe problem, driver's side needle bearing replaced with ECGS bushing. yet to install: HID Blazer Fog Retrofit, LED Flood & Spot, + switches, fuse panel. Metal Tech Sliders w/ kickout and dimple die filler plates. swaybar relocate blocks (build my own)
  11. Oct 4, 2013 at 1:37 PM
    #1251
    crocket49

    crocket49 New Member

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    IgnorantlyAlberta and nj636, just wanted to let you know that it was the driver side wheel bearing as you both suggested. Even though the wheel was not loose and there was no noticeable noise coming from the driver side wheel when I turned it by hand. I would of bet a C-note that the noise was coming from the passenger side, but I would have lost that bet. Thanks guys!
     
  12. Oct 4, 2013 at 2:55 PM
    #1252
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing BIG DADDY

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    F.U> GUYZ
    broken mods
    AND ALSO CHECK DRIVESHAFT
     
  13. Oct 4, 2013 at 3:11 PM
    #1253
    IgnorantlyAlberta

    IgnorantlyAlberta VA6DCO

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    David
    edmonton
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    lift, wheels, bumper, rear bumper, intake, front and rear winches, swing tailgate, OBA, sliders.
    :thumbsup:
     
  14. Oct 5, 2013 at 3:01 PM
    #1254
    keninsb

    keninsb "Senior", Senior Member

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    Ken
    Goleta, CA
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    Ok I have a quick question; my truck does not really vibrate, but the steering wheel will kind of "wobble" like someone was moving the steering wheel back and forth about 1/8" to 1/4". It usually happens when I am getting on the freeway at about 55MPH. Does this sound like the same issue?
    Thanks,
    Ken
     
  15. Oct 5, 2013 at 4:26 PM
    #1255
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing BIG DADDY

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    F.U> GUYZ
    broken mods
    nope thats a tire balance issue
    and or worn tie rods , ball joints, ect.....
     
  16. Oct 5, 2013 at 5:31 PM
    #1256
    Agent Smith

    Agent Smith Always outnumbered, never outgunned

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    Toytec lift,FJ Anthracite wheels wrapped in BFG A/T 265/75/16's,WAAG Brush Guard, IPF 868's,sleeved fog lights
    You'll know it if you have it. Get under your truck and grab the driver's side CV axle where it goes into your front diff. Now move it, up/down and back/front. There will be alot of play. Try moving it in/out, more play. Now compare it with your passenger side CV. There will not be any play, it is nice and tight there.

    Best advice I can give you is to find a freshly paved street, as these tend to be the quietest and smoothest. If you are listening, you can hear what I can only describe as a vibration, like if you had mud terrain tires. I can actually feel it when I have the stereo on.

    Switch into 4hi when you hear/feel it. It will instantly go away as soon as the diff engages. You won't hear it, you won't feel it. Go back to 2hi, it won't be instant, but as soon as you let off the gas and take the tension off the CV axles, it will be back.
     
  17. Oct 5, 2013 at 5:54 PM
    #1257
    keninsb

    keninsb "Senior", Senior Member

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    Thanks BrutalGuyRacing and Agent Smith, great info. Now I can go bitch out my tire shop (no, I really can, they suckered me into the extended warranty).
    Thanks again,
    Ken
     
  18. Oct 19, 2013 at 8:53 PM
    #1258
    Dick Proenneke

    Dick Proenneke Well-Known Member

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    OME 3" Lift with DAKAR'S, LR UCA'S, ECGS Bushing, Leer Cap, 18" Dick Cepek Torque', Duratracs, custom drive shaft, etc!
    Just to clarify, how far in do you push the oil seal? As far as it will go, or flush with the edge of the diff? I just installed my ECGS bushing a month ago, and now I'm getting a small leak?
     
  19. Oct 19, 2013 at 8:58 PM
    #1259
    Texoma

    Texoma Well-Known Member

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    Poweraid TB spacer, a bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA 2035s headers and dey are perty, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, LR UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, 5 factory 16" steels wit Pep Boys special Dakota Definity MT's in 285/75/16, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more but it's alre
    When I did mine, I pushed it all the way in. Others have done that and had leaks. From my understanding, they are made the way they are to be set all the way in, but there have been some who put it flush with the outer race, and have not had any problems. From an engineering stand point, drive the seal as far in as it will go, evenly on all sides. If it is off just slightly, you will have a leak.
     
  20. Oct 19, 2013 at 9:34 PM
    #1260
    Dick Proenneke

    Dick Proenneke Well-Known Member

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    OME 3" Lift with DAKAR'S, LR UCA'S, ECGS Bushing, Leer Cap, 18" Dick Cepek Torque', Duratracs, custom drive shaft, etc!
    Great, thanks! I'm gonna pull it apart tomorrow and drive a new seal in all the way, until it stops. I have a seal install tool now too, so that will likely help.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2013
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