OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

I'll take it when your done! No hurry.

 

Hello folks,
I have an '08 PreRunner with mechanical OEM LSD going on 2 years now with 3.5"'s of lift in the rear & 2.75"'s in the front. Even though I only got stuck once while off-roading with other 4WD Tacoma's (& I dug myself out) I had been considering getting a new 4WD SR5, maybe by the end of next year.

But.... Damn, I can't believe how much BS is exposed just from lifting the truck. From what I've read it appears that Toyota did a bad job with the front diff but it is almost always exposed when the truck is lifted.

Does the ECGS fix this without causing long term damage? I'd rather have a lifted 2WD than a stock height 4WD which is ultra sensitive to lifts.

 

If you read recent posts on this thread, there are some very good high mileage testimonies for the ECGS bushing. Don't let this scare you away from 4wd. The bushing is an easy and affordable fix, if you even end up having a problem.

 

Did you miss qnyla's post on the page before this one? He probably has the most miles on the ECGS bushing out of anyone here, and his pictures are worth a thousand words.

 

Can someone tell me which way the bushing is supposed to go in? I can't tell from the video or instructions on EGCS site, they seem to conflict.

 

Nevermind, I got it figured out, didn't realize the bushing was actually pressed inside a metal sleeve, I thought it was all one piece.

 

I missed that. Good point also. I may not have the problem. Thanks

Yes I did. Can't argue with what you see. Thanks.

I didn't realize that either.

Luckily, I have a LONG TIME to do research but I can tell you now that it's not as scary as I first thought. Plus, I may even go as subtle as a5100's @ .85 with ToyTec spacers for about 1.5"'s & 1.5"'s in the rear. I'll see when the time comes but I will be monitoring this thread.

Thank you all very much.

 

Got the EGCS bushing installed today. Was quite a painful job though. My axle was stuck pretty good in the hub, so I put the axle nut on and gave it a few whacks with a hammer like I've done on other cars a million times. Turns out the tacoma's axle nut is weak and I stripped the last few threads off of it. So I had to get a new one of those. I used the steel braided cable trick to pull the axle out of the diff and was really surprised how easily it came out. Three swings with a 8 lb sledge and it popped out super easy. I got the ECGS puller and the old bearing came out easy enough, but the new bushing was a pain to get in. I don't have a setter tool so I used multiple sockets, extensions and punches to drive it in. Best thing was a 32mm socket turned around with a long extension in it, drove it in pretty good. Disconnected the spindle at both ball joints because I couldn;t get the tie rod free. It was a little in the way which made swinging the hammer difficult. Lost about a half quart of fluid that I had to refill, but all else was trouble free. Total time working was about 4 hours with a break to get the new nut.

Best part is the vibrations are gone so I'm happy.

 

Had the ECGS bushing installed 12/26, smooth now, feels like a lot less rolling resistance and I can stand driving around town (20-50mph). Thanks ECGS, I'll report back with updates on mileage, hoping for no issues!!

 

These are great reports. I might install mine on New Years day.

 

A note on the differential fluid. Someone on this thread mentioned changing it instead of topping it off because of finding metal particles in the fluid. I took the drain plug out and also found metal particles on the magnetic part of the plug. To be safe I think the fluid should be replaced after the bearing install.

 

It adds up quick. An alignment turned into LCA bushing replacement due to seized bolts/cam adjusters which has now turned into ball joints, tie rod ends, ECGS bushing, hubs & swapping 885's to 886's. Figured I'd get it all in one shot

 

I have an 06 with 100K miles on it. It has had OME lift for about 40K miles and about a month ago I started noticing a vibration. I took it to a mechanic to see what he thought was wrong and he said it needed a new center bearing for the rear drive shaft.

I can't tell if the vibration is coming from the front or rear, but it definitely makes my feet tingle if that makes sense so I can tell that the vibration is coming from under my feet and center console. I can't really hear any noise resonating from the vibration. The truck is not quite to begin with, but nothing stands out to me are the mechanic who test drove it with me. Also, when it gets really bad I can hear a rattle in my dash that I never had before the vibration began about a month ago. I've tried the 4HI test and it seems like it is better while in 4HI, but its definitely not perfectly smooth when in 4HI. I am switching to 4HI from a stop... Are you guys switching to 4HI while moving and if so what speed? The vibration happens when driving slow from 5-50mph or so. Once I get on the interstate and get up to around 60-75mph its not as noticeable. If I drive really slow through a smooth parking lot it feels like I'm driving on really rough pavement.

Well this past weekend I went ahead and pulled the rear driveshaft and replaced the center bearing and 3 rear u-joints with all spicer parts. I still have the exact same vibration.

Is there any thing else I can do to be positive the ECGS bushing will fix my problem. I do have a lot of play in the driverside CV axle like the videos posted in this thread. I just hate to waste $100-200 replacing this bushing and it not fix the problem.

I am about a 4hour drive from ECGS, but I don't think theres really any reason to take the truck to Chase at ECGS in person.

 

Just ordered my bushing and an axle seal. Removal tool should be here any day. Hopefully get this done over the weekend

 

I switched to 4hi @ 35mph, and back. The vibe went away and then came back in 2wd. Also my drivers cv shaft has a crazy amount of play in it. I'll be installing the bushing soon. I have everything that I need now.

 

I've been coming to a complete stop and then switching to 4HI... I've always been a little concerned at switching to 4HI while moving at any real speed.

I'll test it afterwork while moving.

 

Do it while coasting, not under accel.

 

I switched between 2HI and 4HI while coasting around 30-35 and theres definitely a groaning sound and vibration that goes away in 4HI. I guess I've never really noticed the groaning sound because I'm always hearing it and have gotten used to it. I'm really not that picky about noises and vibes, but this one definitely has caught my attention.

At least it seems I've figured out whats wrong with the truck. I guess I'll order the parts from ECGS.

Does anybody have one of those tools they want to sell?

 

Well at least it sounds like you are more confident in what the problem is. I ordered the bearing puller with the bushing and also ordered the tool kit to push the bushing in. It all came to about $200.

 

^^ I strongly agree with DonL on this. The thing is the magnet on the drain plug is not exactly the strongest around. Its just so-so. Want to boost how much iron debris you collect? Get a strong neomagnet and place it over the drain plug on the outside.