OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

You getting the tool too? I was gonna order or make one but if there is one in the neighborhood maybe we can work something out.

 

Yes I ordered the tool. You can borrow it. You planning on installing yourself or garage?

 

Subd

 

I have a tool free to borrow for anyone in the Greater Toronto Area. I can even recommend a little Mom & Pop shop that will replace it for only $100. (you supply parts.)

 

Is that tool something that auto zone would have available to rent?

 

negative on autozone - it's a special tool so either buy it from ECGS or make your own. I made my own because I'm cheap and like challenges. I did rent the 35mm for the axle nut from O'reilly's - $100 down but got it back when I returned it. Actually the kit had 32-40mm so I knew I was covered.

 

Thanks, I just ordered a new bushing, seal and puller from ECGS. The damn instal tool was 60 bucks so I'll just use a socket or something.

 

I just put my order in . Question guys , I have had to change out my wheel hub bearing now will be 3 times . I have the bearing on the way to me from bamatoy1997 thats pre-assembled. Could this bushing deal be the reason its going out ?. And I crawled under it today and wiggled the cv Shafts that go in the diff .The driver side wiggles bad, and may be the reason I couldn't keep oil in the diff . So I need to change out the diff bearings because they wiggle bad, is this ECGS bushing the bearing for that? Or do I need to change out the bearings and the Bushing.

 

Not sure ^^but bump for help.

And if anyone has the puller tool I could borrow, let me know

 

x2 on the removal tool. I'm about to order the bushing and need one to borrow.

 

the tool i made is available and worked great - PM if interested

 

I just tackled the job this past Saturday.
Here's what was up -story time

My problem began with a torn boot in my drivers side axle, pre lift. I ordered a toytec lift, and an aftermarket axle from advance auto parts. I have a friend that works at Toyota so i was fortunate to use him and their facility to install the lift (free of charge!!!) well, all went well, suspension lift was a breeze, even putting in the aftermarket axle was easy.

I keep my OEM cv axle to re-boot and have as a spare*, it was still in good shape.

Fast forward 2 days later, i have oil leaking out of my drivers side axle seal-where it goes into the diff housing. Soon after we replace the seal, and I go about my way again.

about a week later, the leak comes back. i also notice some vibes-which I now assume its from the needle bearing, after reading this thread in the past. At this point, i go ahead and order the ECGS bushing and removal tool.
I live with the small leak, every couple of weeks i check the diff fluid and add if need be.

The time finally came after one year of putting up with this that i had to have something done. i put 100 miles on my truck per day with my commute, and i was tired of crawling under my truck every other Saturday and servicing the diff. I was also tired of the mess and burnt smell from the diff oil leaking everywhere on the undercarriage and exhaust.

I finally got time with my friend at Toyota to tackle this job. after 5 hours, we got it done. This time also included doing all diff/transfer case flushes and coolant flush.

I recommend of course having the removal tool, but also having/renting the bearing race driver kit. I know other people have used a socket to drive the bushing in, (such as the back of the 35mm socket)but we tried and you couldn't see to drive it in, potentially risking driving it in crooked.
heres what i rented. it was around $60 deposit at Autozone.


you will use the smallest diameter drive head, the 1.565" dia


Also, i rented the slide hammer to extract the aftermarket axle using it and the hose clamp method.....mistake, i ended up just breaking the hose clamp every time i hammered the slide. We ended up using the pry bar.

The job wasn't too hard. I went back and put in my OEM cv axle and new oil seal, and now no more leaks!!!

Lesson learned with the aftermarket cv axle. I know they are cheaper, but in my instance it wasn't made within spec. the shaft was smaller that goes into the housing, which therefore caused my leaks.

I'm happy to report my main vibe is gone, besides the hum of my tires (cooper st Maxx) I let my friend, the Toyota tech, borrow the bearing removal tool for future jobs at Toyota requiring it.

 

Good write up.
I used the air craft cable and sledge hammer method on mine this weekend. Use the same bearing/ seal race you used. The job went fast and smooth. Also just unbolted the lower ball joint and moved everything out of the way instead of removing the cv frrom the hub assembly.
I went ahead and made my own tool with some scrap metal a puller I had.

 

^^^

 

good idea on the air craft cable. I removed the two blots to the lower ball joint like you did as well, but was already replacing my axle. I agree, it went smoother than i thought it would.

 

Anybody used this to remove the axle found it on Amazon for $38.00 shipped.

http://www.steckmfg.com/71410_AxlePopper.html

 

I just used a pry bar like this, about 3' long. Sometimes you can find a pack of 3 in different sizes at most auto parts places. Great tool to have for other jobs.

use a rag against the diff housing so you won't mar up the edge.
Like others have said, if it doesn't want to budge at first, try rotating the cv axle little by little, it will pop out.

 

One other question I am going to just reinstall my OEM CV shaft cause I only have 5000 miles on my truck :-( do I just reinstall it or do I need a new clip and if I read it right I have the opening of the clip facing down when reinstalling the shaft.

Thanks John

 

The ECGS bushing helps with the play. are you still running OEM axles?

As far as your wheel bearing issue, ball joints could also be the culprit or mis alignment, prematurely wearing the wheel bearing down.

 

re using the clip on the end of the axle is fine. yes you are correct in the position of the clip, it makes install much easier.

the biggest thing to be sure of is the oil seal, if you are gonna keep the old one in, be sure its in good shape, and doesnt have any bends in the spring.

Toyota suggests you use a new axle nut and cotter pin. (that is if you used the method of taking the axle all the way out of the spindle). I got new ones, but honestly you could probably get by re using the old ones. If you did this method, thread the axle nut flush with the shaft and use a rubber mallet to hammer it back in the diff.