Official 5-Lug Picture Thread

Dang okay. I saw that center bore but didn't know if it was the biggest of deals or not. I'm looking for some simple bronze wheels that won't break the bank lol

 

Start here looking for your wheel from oem manufactures that use our bolt pattern (5x114.3): https://sizemywheels.com/lz-pcd/5-114.3
Check for hub interface (67.1mm) and offset to get a good fit.

Then sort through ebay to find the style you like from the possibilities above, then on to craigslist, perhaps marketplace for your cheap wheels.

Post what you go with.

 

No, the frictional force created by the lug nuts clamping the wheel onto the hub is what carries the radial load and in the case of taper-seat nuts, the lugs themselves do too. There's probably at least 8,000-10,000lbs per lugnut holding the wheel on. If the hub center of the rim did it, then there would have to be movement of that interface causing wear on the hub center, hub face, rim center, and lug nut holes because the hub center isn't a press fit.That doesn't happen to a properly-mounted wheel. The lug nuts would also loosen and some would unwind themselves due to mechanical precession.

https://www.americastire.com/learn/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric?storeCode=1752

 

In rotation, I do not disagree with what you are saying. The clamping force of the lug nut when properly torqued is going to give you a huge number; that's not what I was talking about. When you hit a pothole at speed, that vertical load coming up thought the tire/wheel, you want the beefy hub to take that load. Yes, the center bore aligns the wheel to the axle centerline but it does much more - look at the amount of material used to do so on the wheel side and hub side. All manufactures designs are robust around the hub. If all they needed was an alignment guide, they wouldn't need that much material.

"That doesn't happen to a properly-mounted wheel." This is the article/your counter argument out. If you slowly tighten the lug nuts, then torque them down to properly center and clamp the wheel down, it's going to take a lot of sheer force to cause the wheel to move (a very small amount) - but it could happen under extreme conditions. Do we all "properly mount our wheels" by sequence and torquing? Perhaps the vast majority do, but the vast majority of taco drivers drive off road under demanding conditions to say nothing of highway driving. Potholes hit at speed impart huge loads through the wheel/tire/suspension that's all carried through the hub interface. It is the constant number of impacts that will cause a lug only mount to have issues. Once the bolt hole(s) elongate just a little, you are toast.

One thing is for sure, if you go with a larger wheel opening than your hub ring, you have clearly reduced your margin of safety as all vertical loads coming from the hub are carried through the lugs only. So, you better make sure you have everything else perfect and inspect and rotate the tires per O&M recommendations to keep watch for bolt/bolt hole issues.

 

You may notice a ride difference with suchunsprung weight differences.

 

Just bought some 15x7 wheels, trying to decide on tire size. eyeing 32x11.5x15.

Anyone have any experience with sizes around this? Is regearing necessary?

 

Speaking of wheels, Rock Auto appears to be selling X-Runner wheels:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13163345&cc=1441488&pt=7644&jsn=584