*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

Working by hand actually takes a whole lot more skill than working with a DA polisher, from what I've been told. I just tried working on a scratch on my hood by hand and I quit, for fear of making it worse. It's a 2014 and in great shape, so an isolated scratch repaired by me by hand could end up even worse.

My experience was similar- slightly better but not much.

 

wife is going out with her friends tonight....think i'll spend some more time on it.

 

I used a foam pad with scratchX to minimize chance of hazing. But someone suggested I use mf or terry for more cut. But with those comes the chance of hazing. So... Interpret that how you want to.

 

I have a Porter Cable (PC) which is dual action (DA) and a Flex 3401. Harbor freight sales a similar DA for less than a PC. I would recommend a DA over the Powerball. With the Powerball used on a drill, I would be concerned about burning through clear coat with a compound. Powerball says it is only for fine polishes.

 

Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinking. I believe I'll opt for the foam pad, again. Which leads to another question...

do you clean foam pads or trash them after a while. in a perfect world, i'd assume no contaminants would be getting mixed in with the foam...is that actually the case?

 

Yeah you can wash the pads a few times and re-use them for wax/sealant app. But you're correct, the risk is there for contaminants. Just have to use your best judgement there. I use dish soap in a big bowl in the sink to wash my pads. Soak, agitate, And then really rinse them well. Don't know if that's best practice, but that's what I do. Seems to be working fine. But Working on the hood, I don't like to take chances. Especially doing what you're doing now.

I really doubt guys working with DA pads are tossing them after every use. I get my hand app pads 20 at a time locally, and they're $1.15. So, not a big deal to just use a new one for LSP application.

 

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/95882-clean-foam-pads.html

 

You can clean the foam pads. When I get done with using mine I spray them with Adams All Purpose Cleaner, then I will soak them in Dawn, then rinse and air dry. I use a pad cleaner when I done a full paint correction. Usually go through 3 to 4 pads per correcting step.

 

Went at it with the clay bar, followed by Ult Compound and finished up with Ult Liquid Wax. Results are much better. Like, I'm no long certain as to where the spot was and really have to look for small imperfections. I'll try to get a picture tomorrow in the sunlight. I couldn't see it under the garage light like I could last night.

 

I would look into a coating. I just used Optimum Gloss Coat on my Tacoma and the bird bombs bead up. No evidence that a bomb was there.

 

Without going through all 110 pages, I have a couple bottles of liquid glass, can and should I use this as my waxing step. I know you recommend a lot of other products, this product seems to be very good and the application process is effort less.

 

If a person were to have only one polisher, would they be limited with the rupes due to it not taking pads smaller than 5.5-6" ? I like the flex but the rupes sounds like a smoother running machine. Just wondering if I can do entire vehicles with the rupes alone. Any info would be appreciated.

 

I don't understand the point of a grit guard in a wash bucket. If I only put my wash mitt in the top few inches of the bucket, the crap will sink to the bottom anyway. Wouldn't a grit guard essentially trap at least a portion of that same grit halfway down? Keeping it even closer to my mitt? I've not used one so I'm not slamming the product. But from my understanding of how they work, it seems to me that anything between my mitt and the bottom of the bucket is a place for grit to reside. As long as you don't let your wash mitt sink to the bottom, seems to me you're better off with just a bucket. What am I missing?

 

You are over thinking. What happens if the mitt sinks to the bottom. Essentially the grit guard lets the debris go to bottom of the bucket. Plus you rub mitt against grit guard to get debris out. Now keep in mind I use a two bucket wash. One bucket is soap, the other bucket is clean water to rinse your mitt in.

 

Yup I do two bucket, too. Just wondered if I had anything to gain with the grit guard. But probably not if I don't drop my mitt! I just use my hands to rub the grit out in the rinse bucket.

 

even if you dont ever drop your mitt, you have dirt leaving your vehicles surface and adhering to your mitt. Rubbing against the grit guard in the bucket rids it of those possible scratching items.

 

Ohhhhh, now I get it. I didn't realize you used it to clean your mitt. I just thought it was to keep your mitt off the bottom of the bucket.

 

Got some AmmoNYC products for Christmas. I'm excited to see how it works on the wheels.

 

I'm thinking about picking up a Duetto, and wondering the same thing.

 

This past Monday and Tuesday I hit my taco with clay bar, Meguiar's NXT 2.0, and

$22 Collinite 845 Insulator Wax-Easy to Use Carnauba+Polymer Wax Sealant-High Gloss Shine+Durable Hydrophobic Beading & Long Lasting Paint Protection for Cars/Boats/Trucks/RVs & Motorcycles (16 fl oz)

Collinite 845. Very happy with the results