*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

sweet thanks! Im using a harbor freight random orbital

 

The ultimate compound/polish is good stuff. I think you'll like it. User friendly. Doesn't take much product. It's different than their pro-stuff (M105/205), but don't let that fool ya. It's good stuff. The polish is really oily and tends to darken dark colors of paint.

Also- it's SMAT-type abrasives (super-micro abrasive). As opposed to diminishing abrasive. So, you don't need to break it down with multiple passes like the old days (although you will want to do multiple passes anyway). It just means you can basically stop anywhere in the buffing cycle and not worry if you've broken it all the way down for best finish.

Meguires is making some nice stuff these days. For an "over the counter" product, the Ultimate Liquid Wax is great, too. It's actually a polymer paint sealer (and not really a "wax").

 

thank you man! I need to do this soon since my pinstripes are bothering me haha but I have to have the car spotless first huh? so after I use the compound then claybar and wax?

 

No prob. You want to clay before you compound/polish. It'll get all the bonded contaminants off so you don't end up spinning them around with the DA.

So-- wash, clay, wash, compound, polish, wax. It's a time sink for sure. If you're lucky, the compound may finish without the need for polish. You won't know until you get there.

If you're really gonna give it some time, the sealer (ultimate liquid) will look great. If not, I'd just go with a wax. Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba Plus is a good one.

 

Chemical Guys http://www.chemicalguys.com/SearchR...392367749299309153341669572262980813412894208
Memorial Day Sale if anyone is interested.
Some great deals here, up to 30% off good stuff.

 

I don't know about CG. I used their microfiber detergent and it works okay...not great at all. My MF towel seems to not as absorbent. I use their product and then low heat so the towels are never fully dry when I take them out. My towels are pre rinsed and sit in a bucket wet until I wash them to make sure it's easy to remove stains and such. Look at chemical guys website there's a lot of SKUs and seems more like a marketing and charging a lot of money. Who charges $1500 for carnauba wax? It's a product...for $1500...I can go to a shop and get my whole front clip paint protection film installed at retail price. How long is their wax going to last to charge $1500 or even $800 for the regular tin.

It's like Beats headphones....they are no where near the best headphones, but with a great marketing department they sold a lot of units to the masses. Looking at their website, looks like more marketing than performing detailing product. Thanks for the MoQs 30% off seems like a great deal, but think they are overcharging for their product.

I buy products that detailers actually buy and I'm sure they are not going to sell to the pros as they have other brands they use that will get their clients happy. That $1500 wax seems like a tool for the super rich car owners where their detailers say...hey pay me $3K to wax your because this wax is $1500... best in the world.

Again sorry if you think I'm picking on you MoQs...not at all ... just venting when I saw $1500 paste wax.

 

Feel better???? Lol.

There are quite a few pros that use Chemical Guys. $1500 wax is nothing, if you look you will find more expensive products.

 

Wonder if it smells good though.

 

Very true. Google those high end waxes @imom and see how they look. They are definitely used on high end only cars (at least the few pics I've seen) but I guess if money is no object you could toss it on your 95 Honda Civic. I haven't seen a side by side comparison with say Meguiars yellow wax though so who knows.

 

I have seen waxes in the $5000 range for a small container. It all depends on what you want.
All of Chemicals guys stuff has different flavors, like Stripper Scent, etc.
They have different grades of Microfiber so I would try a different towel.
For me, Chemical Guys is all about I use and have been for many years.
I just saved about 1/3 on my most recent order with free shipping.
That is my rant and reply to your comments.
To each his own.

 

Haha intriguing.

 

This might of been asked before, but there are alot of pages to go through. So the best way to detail your cat is, wash, clay, polish then wax? Am I missing anything? Is there any all in 1 polish wax combo that are worth it? @mShu7 . I am new this this detailing myself. Also how many times a year do you detail your truck?

 

You are correct. Wash-clay-polish-wax (or sealer). HD Speed is a great all in one. It's got some good correction ability and leaves behind a paint sealer.

 

A couple more...

Meguiars White Wax and Black wax also has some cut. White has more corrective cut, black has more polishing oils. They can both be used in any color. With a machine, white wax gives nice results.

Also, Duragloss #105 Total Polish and Seal is a good one (I like to use it combined with #601 binding agent). It's a chemical cleaner with no abrasives.

The HD Speed is arguably one of the best all in ones out there right now.

As for how many times a year for these products? Depends on many variables. But for sake of an answer- twice a year. At minimum, Pre-winter detail, post-winter detail.

 

You still need to wash and clay very well to strip the old wax and contaminate. If you don't clay well and then you start to polish, it can pick up something and give you a pigtail or swirl marks. If you use a AIO, the down side is that even if your paint doesn't need a cut phase, you are removing clear coat anyways and there's so many times of cut you can do before you don't have clear coat anymore. If you are doing with a DA polisher, you have to use the right compound as they are designed for certain temperature/speed. 3M rubbing compound is designed for rotary where as other rubbing compound is designed for DA polisher.

How many times depends on what you use. If you don't wax instead use a paint coating/sealant it can last for year or two before it requires maintenance. If you go the wax route, wax is good for few months. It's up to you on how much money/time you want to spend on your vehicle. If you have wrong wash method or park under a tree or near a sprinkler system then you will need to spend more time.

 

The amount of cut in an All In One is pretty minimal, if any at all (many aio's have no cut-- they clean via chemicals, not abrasives). And cut, if abrasives are present, is also dependent on pad type, buffer speed, and pressure.

Without being too aggressive, you could use an abrasive AIO a few times a year and not have to worry about thinning the clear on today's modern clear coat finishes. If working by hand, you could probably use it 20 times a year.

If using a chemical cleaning AIO, you don't have to worry about thinning clear at all.

 

I was going to buy the mq clay bar kit you recommended, this buffer, Griot's Garage 10813STDCRD 6" Random Orbital Polisher, waxing pad, finishing pad, and hd speed all in one. will this setup be ok for not tearing up my clear coat?

 

Do not try to detail your cat.

 

I've had several clay bars before...they work well, but at times they tend to leave marks on paint if not lubed enough or has some heat. Dropping a clay bar you pretty much toss it. I was surprised when I had my car professionally detailed that he didn't use clay bar but instead nanoskin pad. It was much faster to do the whole car and if you drop it...you just quickly rinse it...no worry about throwing clay bar away.

I'm about to get the nanoskin 6" pad and meguiar's pads/compound kit for my HF DA polisher. For your first polisher, not sure why you wouldn't go with the harbor freight for $50 and change versus a $170 polisher or $180 kit. You still need the AIO. The HF DA polisher and Meguiars will set you back $140, but comes with 16 oz correct compound and 16 oz wax. Something to consider...or get the Griot's kit if you don't like to mod the HF polisher.

 

Nanoskin is more likely to marr the paint than clay. Obviously that if you are pro it's a non issue since the paint will be corrected anyways. I always make sure and use a detail spray to make sure paint stays lubed when claying.