*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

Ohhhh, hey that's perfect. Yeah wax in between sealing. Thank you!!

 

If you consider using opticoat, cquartz finest, or other paint coatings...it's much longer than 6 months. You don't apply wax after you do the tedious task of wash, clay, wash, color correct, then apply the paint coating... once you do that...it's good for 1 to 2 years or more depending on the coating you use.

I don't see the reason why after all the new coating available...why do you want to wax and short term sealants...so much time and work and then have to do it again. It's hard work and time... why not use a better product...the pros charge $600 to $800 or more...but the consumer stuff you can get from $50 to $100.

 

+1.

I was reluctant to try a coating because I thought it would take away from my detailing fun...but I was wrong. After using coatings I will never go back to a sealant. Now I do top the coating for shits and giggles.

 

Wait, I've never heard of these things. They really last that long? Is opticoat the one I should look into?

I've been using Meguire's sealant for years I didn't really think to look if some new hotness had come out. I will check into this.

Would I remove it with clay after a certain period of time just like the sealant?

 

Just read the reviews on opticoat and cquartz finest. On autogeek, there are other brands too. Should run you $50+, but it would do a car or two. I don't know about the clay with coating, but if I had to guess...no clay would not remove it...only a polish would remove it. Once you had the coating applied...you shouldn't need to clay anymore...it's supposed to fill in the micro cracks and pores so it's slick... Cquartz finest you should NOT apply on first if you plan to use PPF, there's youtube on it where the paint protection film would not adhere and come off easily. You would apply the coating over the PPF. I did not have this issue with opticoat pro applied by licensed detailer...so I think Cquartz would be better...but they both work in not having to wax...but it's no where near PPF if you want paint protection. Coating is good for not having to wax and making it hard for dirt and such to stick...but it will if you leave anything on long enough.

Again I would never do sealants again if you are talking about short term nor would I ever wax again. I got a box full of zaino products works great but freaking time consuming and probably go bad in another year or two.

 

Great, thank you. I am starting my research into this. Thanks again!

 

I assume after 2 years and you want to apply a coating again you go through the wash, clay, polish and then coating cycle?

 

If you maintain the paint throughout the years...I believe after a year or so...you can add a "booster" to add more. It just depends on how you treat your paint after washes and getting scratches. If the coating and clear coat is scratch...I would say you have to compound/polish to correct the scratches/paint and then you would have to reapply.

I can't vouch for after 2 years because I only had my BRZ for a year or so before I sold it. I haven't done anything to my truck yet because it's hot and waiting until the fall/winter to work on the paint. The hood is catching stuff like crazy so it needs a clay and color correction from the time I bought it because previous owners did not take care of the paint. I currently just wash the truck. I got all the gear...just have to make time to do it.... crazy to do it in the summer though.

 

1) You only want to clay the car when it is needed.
2) Run you hand over the paint with a latex glove on, the paint will either feel smooth or ruff. If ruff then clay the car.
3) if no clay is needed then you need to look at the paint to see if the paint needs to be compounded and polished or just polished. After you are done polishing the you can apply a sealant or wax.
4) some sealants are layer able and can also have a wax applied on top.
5) regarding a new car I always clay them first as there could be rail rust or road grime from transportation to the dealer.

 

Thanks for the info!

 

FYI, if you use opticoat or cquartz finest etc....you don't wax anymore...in fact it doesn't help it far as shine and such. If you go with coating...stay with coating and no more wax. That's the the point of the coating...saves time. After a year if you feel the shine is gone...you can do a quick booster product that goes with the coating.

 

I added on the black tube steps from Toyota to my Tacoma, and after one trip through rainy city streets, my sealed and waxed Tacoma looks ok, but the tube steps look like hell. Is there anything I should do in terms of protecting them? Would I use my same sealant or wax on them?

 

Are the steps plastic, metal, painted etc? If painted...then should work...if plastic...need to get plastic product. Opticoat said theirs work for glass and other surface...but I doubt that for surfaces other than paint.

 

So I got a nice dent from a rock a while back & it went through the primer. What should I do to protect it & prevent it from rusting as I live by the beach

 

It's the ones Toyota Sells, black powdercoat finish. The steps are plastic.

 

If there's a dent, you should go to a paintless dent repair to knock it out. If it went through primer...you need to sand and decide a quick fix or long term. Long term is using 2K paint that's toxic...or go with 1K paint spray can or regular spray paint. You need to sand and then primer again and use duplicolor paint match...then a 1K or 2K clear coat. If it's too much work, it'll probably run $200 to $300 at a body shop.

Tough to answer that....no experience with side steps and the wear and tear of stepping on it. You can try opticoat , cquartz etc... but it's a guess on my part and don't want to get flamed for guessing. Sorry can't help on paint/plastic combo...especially when stepped on.

 

OK my truck sits outside 24/7, what do you recommend for UV protection for weatherstripping and black trim pieces etc.

 

Everybody and their mother on recommends 303....which is a joke. Better off with a coating like GTechniq C4. It holds up better than 303 ever dreamed and won't run down the paint. Doesn't wash off with the rain like 303. Yes, it's more expensive but you get what you pay for plus it goes a long way.

 

Thanks for the tip

 

In all fairness, GTechniq C4 is a restorer while 303 is a protectant.