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*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by mShu7, May 12, 2008.

  1. Apr 28, 2009 at 1:55 PM
    #241
    mShu7

    mShu7 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys! Sorry for being a little late to respond. Been busy lately.


    Check out this link: http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=33

    There are a lot of good "how-to's" in there, including one that talks about polishing by hand. It'll be easier to read through all that stuff vs. me typing everything else out. If you have any specific questions though, let me know.


    Awesome! Glad I could help!
     
  2. Apr 30, 2009 at 10:53 AM
    #242
    ShyTaco

    ShyTaco Member

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    Honolulu, HI
    Vehicle:
    2008 PreRunner
    As far as drying my truck after washing. Whats your opinion on "Absorber", which the label says is a PVA drying skin. Its kind of like a sponge, I guess.

    http://www.amazon.com/Absorber-Synthetic-Drying-Chamois-27/dp/B0000AY69V

    Also, what about the "water blade"?

    http://www.amazon.com/Original-California-Car-Duster-Water/dp/B00008RW9X

    As fas as claying, I think I read in detailcity or somewhere that I could use Dawn (diluted) in a spray bottle to use while claying. I used that method about 8-9 yrs ago on my Honda. What do u recommend to use while claying? Is straight water sufficient? I got the clay bar from Zymol but I cant find the liquid spray that possibly came with it.

    Thanks
     
  3. Apr 30, 2009 at 3:37 PM
    #243
    mShu7

    mShu7 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Absorber - It has no "nap" so if you ever get a single particle of dirt, grit, etc. between your paint and the absorber, it will scratch the paint.

    Water blade - See absorber.

    For drying towels, check out the Detailed Image Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towels.

    You can also use a leaf blower to dry your car. This will reduce the chance of marring the paint during towel drying.

    Keep Dawn where it belongs; in the kitchen! Also, straight water isn't a good lubricant. You can just use any kind of quick detailer for claying. That's basically what clay lube is.

    Good luck!
     
  4. May 4, 2009 at 5:29 PM
    #244
    mShu7

    mShu7 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey Guys! Just wanted to let you know about a great online vendor I've been using recently. It's called Detailed Image. Be sure and check them out. They just launched a fantastic new website and have great deals every single day. You can click through to their website using the link in my signature. Tell George that Mike with Driven sent you!
     
  5. Jun 3, 2009 at 11:55 AM
    #245
    GSB

    GSB Well-Known Member

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    Odenton, MD 21113
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    09 TRD Sport DC Long Bed
    Thanks mShu7,

    I took your advise. Did the clay bar, and Optimum Opti-Seal. That stuff is amazing, and so easy to use. Wipe it on and walk away, no need to remove it. Here is a picture: [​IMG]
     
  6. Jun 3, 2009 at 12:05 PM
    #246
    topgun155

    topgun155 Well-Known Member

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    Richmond, TX
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    2018 F-150 5.0
    RIP to my 08 Prerunner DC
    Is there a way to get wax out of the black wheel arch moldings. or should i let nature take over and wear it away.
     
  7. Jun 3, 2009 at 2:32 PM
    #247
    mShu7

    mShu7 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    GSB - No problem! Always glad to help. Your truck looks awesome! Opti-Seal always looks great on metallic paints.

    topgun155 - Believe it or not, peanut butter. Actually, it's the peanut oil in the PB that does the trick. I've also had luck with an all-purpose cleaner and a toothbrush. Just be careful not to scratch the paint with the toothbrush.
     
  8. Jun 25, 2009 at 10:33 AM
    #248
    CometKat

    CometKat Well-Known Member

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    Carson City NV
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    08 Tacoma 4X4 Regular Cab SR5
    Maybe this has been answered before but I can’t find it in the search. How do you clean the clear plastic, on the stereo for example, or the speedometer, without scratching them? In particular I’m talking about the micro scratches that soft clear plastic in notorious for.
     
  9. Jun 25, 2009 at 12:55 PM
    #249
    mShu7

    mShu7 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You'll want to pick-up a bottle of Meguiar's PlastX, which can be found in local retail automotive stores like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, etc.

    Here is a picture of the product:
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Jul 5, 2009 at 7:12 PM
    #250
    gupster88

    gupster88 Well-Known Member

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    Brett
    Almost Heaven, WV
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    2021 Cement Grey Off Road
    Stock
    first off, you have given me tons of good advice. i am really starting to get involved in really protecting my truck. i have two questions however...

    1)all the guys at work use this product called "jax wax" they have their own website, though i say that the detailing man likes meguiers i tend to be hesitant. have you heard of this brand, what do you think of their products?

    2)i have to park my truck outside for the time being until i get a place with a garage or built a portable carport. what do you suggest i do to protect my truck from sun and other weather damage? this may have been answered, i read quite a few pages but not all of them.
     
  11. Jul 6, 2009 at 5:22 AM
    #251
    mShu7

    mShu7 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    1 - I detail full-time and frequent a number of detailing message boards. I've never heard of "jax wax". Not to say it isn't any good, but I'm thinking I would have at least heard of the product(s).

    2 - For starters, I suggest washing with Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine. To protect it, Optimum Opti-Seal offers great protection that will last for at least 4-5 months, if not more. You could also "top" OS with Optimum Car Wax every 1-2 weeks after an ONR wash.

    If you go onto YouTube.com, you can find numerous video demo's on "Optimum No Rinse" and "Opti-Seal".
     
  12. Jul 6, 2009 at 1:09 PM
    #252
    gupster88

    gupster88 Well-Known Member

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    Almost Heaven, WV
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    ok thank you. so is there anything i could spray on the front of my truck to help remove bugs and what not without removing the sealant and what not? i know you suggested the clay bar but i didnt know if there was anything else i could use?
     
  13. Jul 6, 2009 at 2:12 PM
    #253
    GSB

    GSB Well-Known Member

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    2 - For starters, I suggest washing with Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine. To protect it, Optimum Opti-Seal offers great protection that will last for at least 4-5 months, if not more. You could also "top" OS with Optimum Car Wax every 1-2 weeks after an ONR wash.




    This is exactly what I am doing. These products are simple to use and give excelent results. You will not be dissapointed!
     
  14. Jul 6, 2009 at 3:01 PM
    #254
    mShu7

    mShu7 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I would suggest using a soft bug sponge while you're washing to remove the bugs. If that doesn't do it then you'll need to resort to a bug & tar remover or a clay bar, which means you'll need to re-apply your wax or sealant. The thing to remember about bugs is that they are very acid so they need to be removed or they will etch into the paint. And no amount of bug & tar remover or claying will remove etching.
     
  15. Jul 6, 2009 at 3:39 PM
    #255
    gupster88

    gupster88 Well-Known Member

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    so if i have to resort to a bug remover spray or use a clay bar i need to use the opti seal again, got it!

    i'm really anxious to try this no rinse stuff, does it really work just as good as a sudsy-like wash? wen i see something like that i tend to be hesitant but the videos do not lie, vehicles look great!

    i am going to use that opti no rinse, use the clay bar kit, then use that meguiars scratch x polish, followed by opti seal
     
  16. Jul 6, 2009 at 3:45 PM
    #256
    mShu7

    mShu7 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Opti-Seal is so easy to use, you won't mind re-applying!

    ONR is the real deal. I think about every person out there (including myself) has been skeptical...until they tried it. Honestly, I think it's better than a traditional wash. Not only does it not strip the paint, it adds some protection. Plus, since you don't have to worry about rinsing, there's no chances for water spotting. Do a Google search for "Scottwax". He's a very well-respected mobile detailer in TX. He uses ONR exclusively because he details out of his 4-dr. sedan. And he's done it for like 15 years. He has a lot of video's on YouTube.com as well.

    Sounds like a good plan! Good luck with it!
     
  17. Jul 8, 2009 at 3:40 PM
    #257
    dysfunctnlretard

    dysfunctnlretard Hi

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    mShu7:

    Gotta start off by saying thanks a ton for providing the info to all us members. I never realized how many steps are necessary for taking proper care of a vehicle.

    That being said, I went ahead and purchased all the necessary products for maintaining my truck's appearance. The problem is I've never really used any of these products, I used to just go to the car wash, let them wash it, and hope for the best. Given that I am going to completely detail my car's exterior, what would the process look like following the wash/dry. Do I immediately begin using the clay, followed by a polish, and then a wax? Must I allow some time in between them? And can I use Meg's Scratch & Color X right after one another?

    Thanks
     
  18. Jul 8, 2009 at 3:57 PM
    #258
    mShu7

    mShu7 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey, no problem! Always glad to help out.

    Here are the basic steps for the exterior:

    1 - Wash
    2 - Clay (after you've washed and dried)
    3 - Any polishing, whether it's ScratchX or something else. Polishes need worked into the paint and then removed immediately. Yes, you can use ScratchX and then ColorX. Once you've done your polishing, you can move to the next step.
    4 - Sealant or wax. Less is more here. You just want a thin layer on the paint. You'll want to wait for it to dry/haze over and then buff off the residue.
    5 - Maintain. Wash every week or two.

    Check out the link below. It's a site that I buy all my products from, but it has some very helpful tutorials and detailing guides. Let me know if you have any questions at all!

    http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/

    Happy Detailing!
     
  19. Jul 8, 2009 at 4:38 PM
    #259
    dysfunctnlretard

    dysfunctnlretard Hi

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    Sounds Good, thanks. One More Question: I've used microfiber cloths to dry my car in the past, and there were times where they'd pick up some dirt that I missed during the wash. I would then wash the MF cloths, dry them, only to see that the MF cloth was still dirty. Whats proper procedure for getting the dirt off of MF cloths, and do I use soap to wash them? (I read your original post about washing only with other MF, and no softener)

    I was skeptical about reusing the cloths as I assumed that the dirt stuck on their would scratch my car
     
  20. Jul 8, 2009 at 6:13 PM
    #260
    mShu7

    mShu7 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sometimes stains just won't come out of MF towels. As long as they are clean though, they're ok. I just switched over to Tide "free & clear". I was using another laundry detergent, but I noticed my towels, over time, started not absorbing water very easily, particularly my drying towels. When I switched to Tide "free & clear", my towels started working like they should.
     

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