*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

The best way to clean up MF's if they are dirty is a pre-soak. Mind you, it will never be 'brand-new' and if you really got some stains, well then that towel is now for checking oil, etc... I use this product to clean my MF's:
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Microfiber_Cleaning_Towel_Detergent_p/cws_201_16.htm

Works fantastic, and gives those MF's that 'bite' back that washing in regular detergent will take away. (I have yet to try the Tide Free 'n Clear). However, the above stuff works great.

Also, if you need to get some 'bite' back and don't have any MF wash around, you can always boil in white vinegar for about 5 mins or so after they have been washed. (The vinegar smell should go away once dried)

I keep cheapy MF's for tires/engines/tail pipes/wheel wells. Usually from Wal-Mart or AutoZone. For my paint, I get some nicer ones. And they onyl remove wax/polish/Quick Detailer so they never get destroyed. Good MF's are $$$ so I try to keep them nice.

Hope that helps.

 

This is what I use: I get this bottle -> http://www.chemicalguys.com/Bug_and_Tar_Remover_p/cws_104_16.htm, I then use an empty 16oz sprayer with a chemical head on it. I put 2oz of the stuff to 14 oz distilled water (if you have hard water in your area). Mix it up and you have yourself a dandy bug/tar remover. Now, I usually throw a quick layer of wax over the front after becuase I am nutty like that. I feel that the strong wash might break down the wax and I like a good layer of wax on the front grill where the bugs like to throw themselves up against.

I just spray on, let sit for a few (maybe 30 secs-60secs) and use a MF to wipe off. No more bugs! If they presist, a second app is used. Like someone else said, don't let bugs hang around as they can damage the clear coat.

The above wash can also double as a regular wash, but I keep it just for bugs. You get 16oz, so 2oz/bottle I can get 8 bottles of bug stuff. Great for bird crap was well.

You can always get some spray wax as well to cover up where you removed the bugs from. Meguiar's makes Ultimate Quick Wax. Works good for what it is intended for.

Hope that helps!

 

I used to use Purex Free & Clear and it worked fine for a while. But then it started making my MF towels "rough" and not absorb water.

A couple weeks ago I switched to Tide Free. Although it's much more expensive than what I was using, it has completely brought back my MF towels. They are now once again soft and very absorbent.

I'm not sure what the cost breakdown of MF detergent is, but with Tide Free you basically get 64 loads for ~$15 and you don't have to pay shipping.

Two thumbs-up for Tide Free: http://www.tide.com/en-US/product/tide-free.jspx

 

What is the best product to take out scratchs out of the clear coat. A couple of retards got drunk at a get together and thought it would be cool to draw stuff in the dirt on the pass. side of my truck. Any ideas what to do besides taken it to a pro. I never have the time to take it to my detailer and can't afford it right now.
Tim

 

timofthehill -

Pick up some Meguiar's ScratchX 2.0. You can find it at your local parts store. If that doesn't work, the next step would be Meguiar's Ultimate Compound.

 

I just waxed my truck a couple weeks ago, and was wondering how I can tell when it needs to be waxed again? Also, when I wax again, do I need anything to strip Any remaining wax off? And can I use a sealant and then a wax as well?

 

After it rains, the water beads up. When the beads are no longer nice and small I like to strip & wax (Usually 2-3 weeks for me). To strip your wax, you CAN use dish detergent. However, the effects on your trim etc, etc is up for debate. I choose to use a strong car wash solution that states that it can be used as a stripper. This way, when I want to just wash I can dilute to that ratio. To strip, a lesser ratio.

As for a sealant and then a wax, first you must understand that there is a difference in a true sealant and 'commercialized' sealant. I would not go over a true sealant. That being said, common waxes that call themselves sealants are just made with polymers etc. (man made stuff) With wax, you have some form of a natural wax (ie Carnuba wax). Sealants tend to offer more durability versus a carnuba based wax. Hence their preference in the mainstream pubilc.

As for the question to layer, it would have to be just based on looks. As you are no providing any more protection after 2 coats of the sealant. When chosing a wax, make sure the wax is not a cleaner wax or has any type of cleaning agents in it as this might take off the sealant. If you do chose to layer, go for a good carnuba based wax. It will give you a nice wet look with depth and have good protection from the sealant.

 

..oh another way to check for wax is to twist your finger on CLEANED paint. If it squeaks, no wax.. No squeak, you have wax.

 

i was wondering does that NU finish stuff work as well as they say it does?

 

I would throw that away if it was me. But if you already have it, and seem to like it. Use it up and move onto something better.

 

Slickness and beading. Does it still shed (bead or sheet) water quickly? Does it still feel slick?

If not, time to put another coat of wax on.

As far as stripping it, I don't think it's necessary. I always recommend claying at least twice a year, which will strip off the protection so as long as you do that and/or polish a couple times a year you are fine.

Remember though, a sealant needs to be applied to a clean paint surface. It will not bond over a wax. A wax will bond over a sealant though. Sealant first, wax second.

 

It's an old-school wax. I'd use something else. Meguiar's #26 High-Tech Yellow Wax and Meguiar's NXT 2.0 are both very nice for OTC waxes.

 

yeah i have a system that i use on my cars. it involves duragloss car wash, zymol primer coat and then a carnuba coat sealing coat of wax. it really works well

 

Excellent info. Enjoyed reading...

 

I've been washing with a dilute auto detergent. Synthetic chamois to dry.
Zymol or McGuires wax.
Between wash/wax sessions I give it touchups with McGuires gloss enhancer.

This a good procedure? Gloss enhancers help or attack the wax layer?

 

all they do is coat the surface and add to what was already there to some extent

 

Ditch the chamois, get a waffle weave drying towel. Way better. A good soap will add in lubrication which will decrease chance for scratching. Meguiars Gold Class is awesome OTC. If you are not claying, polishing, cleaning the paint you could go with a cleaner wax. Meguiars makes a good one. It has cleaning agents in it that will help with the paint. Meguiars Ultimate Quick Detailer is awesome. Pricey, but good stuff. Just remember that a quick detailer is not a subsitute for a wash. Some of these products have polymers in it that will build up over time. A good waterless car wash is a product that should be used between washes, then add your UQD on top of that.

As for gloss enhancers, #7 by Meguir's is a pure polish. It is OTC so easily found. After a wash, you can go over the car with that before waxing. But it needs to be worked in, so some elbow grease is needed.

I also recommend a clay session twice a year. Put your hand in a baggie and rub your paint. Feel like sandpaper? You need a clay.

Really, a system depends on how much work you want to put in. Me? 2x year the truck gets like a 8hr detail. The whole nine. Over the summer, I just maintain. Keep wax fresh every 2 weeks, spot treat scrachtes, interior and wheels.

 

so I can just wash and wax tomorrow(on strip) (i waxed about a month ago) and just make sure that I clay in the future to make sure the wax hasnt trapped any crap in?

 

^^^

You got it!

 

The other day someone keyed my truck. They are some light scratches down the passenger side. Do you happen to have any tricks to buff them out. Please Help.