*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

No. I have the Porter Cable and I like it.
It gets kind of a bad rap for shaking your arms off... which is true lol but I like mine.

One day I want to get a Torx because I correct 4 cars per year and I also do side work for friends. I want a beast machine that will save my arms and some time. But were talkin a $500 machine.

Cheaper machines do just fine for basic detailing.

Griots 6’’ I think is another entry level machine that comes highly recommended on here.

 

Yes there was a possible issue between me and the dealer, but we got it worked out this morning, thank fully. So long story short, they had the truck for 3 days, doing some warranty work that I have been waiting on getting done cause my 3 year warranty is about up. When I got the truck back, there was some very noticeable, high scratches throughout the truck. I pointed it out and they agreed to detail the truck to polish out the scratches. On a side note, yes, i was crazy enough to pay the $700 for the simonize paint protection, so I asked if they would be reapplying the simonize after the detailing is finished. they answered yes. So I then asked how long do I need to wait before I can clay bar and wax as I want to make sure the paint is extra protected before the salt starts hitting the streets. That is when they said, well you have simonize on the vehicle, you should never have to do that and besides, the clay bar will scratch your truck. I let that one drop.

Anyway, went to the dealer this morning to review the detail job and gotta say, they did a good job of taking care of it. They are gonna finish up the other work and should have back tonight or tomorrow.

As usual, thank you all for the help and reassuring.

 

How do i clean all this crap off? It's Arizona clay. I've had the truck steam cleaned, and I've done a couple rounds of simple green and pressure washing. I wish i had a wash bay with a lift, and i could really put some effort into scrubbing it, but i don't have the time or the facilities to do so.

 

have the same issue with Pa mud..only thing I cud find to get rid of it was soap cannon, followed by hand brushing with stiff brush....and for you haters no, not concerned about the under side so much as touching up the under coating thats been removed from wheeling before the winter salt ....

 

I don’t use them because I keep my headlights coated to prevent UV Damage. Once its starts its just a bear to prevent the plastic from continue oxidizing at a faster rate.

What you need to restore the lens will depend on the level of damage.
You may be able to use a cutting compound and an orange pad to buff the plastic and finish with a white pad and a finish polish. The follow up with a permanent glass coat to protect the lense. (Make sure you tape the paint off when you do this).

If its bad enough to require sanding I am of the mind just buy new lights and care for the new set and don’t let them fade.

 

Hey @PackCon what product do recommend to keep headlights protected?

 

I apply a sealer every 3 months on all my lights. It works very well if you wash your vehicle in a manner that maintains coatings.

I know @ace96 uses Optiglass as a permanent coating. That works better for people who keep up less on detailing

 

Check this out!!!

https://www.chemicalguys.com/Beer_Scent_Snow_Foam_Air_Freshener_p/hol331.htm

Beer Scented car products.


Just don’t get pulled over and you’re good

 

I'm looking to get into detailing, I have a Chicago Electric (read Harbor Freight) variable speed sander / polisher. I was wondering if that would be good enough to start with and if it would damage my shit and if it was hard to fuck it up? I've always been interested in getting into detailing as a hobby but never went for it.

 

Thats a fine starter machine.

Its not the machine thats going to harm your paint, its the pad and product combination you use.

You need to pick the right products for the job.

 

Best place to educate myself on pad / product selection?

 

Autogeek

 

I use the HF polisher with Meguiar’s Ultimate line and had relatively good results for protecting a daily driver. As mentioned though, pad and product combinations will get you the best results.

Check out this guy as well. He’s a professional detailer that also uses the HF polisher (and he’s got some good info). Beware: he talks A LOT.

https://youtu.be/3-mHKBj31Ig

And here’s his tutorial

https://youtu.be/uHveh9kQ-E4

 

Took advantage of the CG's 25% off sale

 

Holy shitstains! Used the clay kit for the first time ever after reading this thread. Was amazed how much it removed, even after a thorough washing. Body feels like glass now. Thanks @mShu7 for this write up!

 

Your clay bar looks like that even after a thorough wash? Holy crap batman what the hell is on your paint? Did that come from the hood?

 

You are officially set up for spa day. The only thing I don't see is a California Blade but I'm sure it's there somewhere

 

Is it worth it to spend $250+ on a full detail from a reputable company?

Long story short, I just don't have the time or patience to spend a full day taking a clay bar, waxing, and detailing the truck. I care about it, but it's just not something that can be high up on the priority list right now.

 

California Blades are a serious disaster waiting to happen.

What is included in this “full detail”?

$250 just for paint correction is a great price.
$250 for inside and out... ehhh make sure you check the place out well before using them. Depending on your area thats a little too cheap to me to be a professional level job.

Prices around me are about $200-$300 for paint correction and full blown inside and out detail with paint correction $500-$600 (for a Tacoma).

I don’t think its a bad deal to pay someone to do your detail. I do it and I detail lol.
A professional detailer by me I know does a two bucket hand wash for $35. I’m taking my truck to him over the winter because I’m not wanting to wash my own truck.

I’ve paid $300 for my F250 paint correction becauseI was too lazy.

No shame. Just make sure its a reputable detail shop and not some franchise where they have uncertified people doing the detail. These shops that have 5 people at a time paint correcting tend not to be worth the money.

I’m of the opinion to go with the detailers that work on exotic cars and Bentley’s. They are worth their skill money wise.

 

This is great information. Thank you!!

http://docdetail.net/

This is who I was thinking about going to. Upon further investigation on their site, it looks like you're exactly right. $500 is the starting point for paint correction.