*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

Thanks for that info. So, for someone not knowledgeable about these things, why go with a sealant vs. wax vs. ceramic coating like the Cquartz?

 

This had been very helpful and I really appreciate it. I just want to keep my paint protected and have a nice shine, but am so time limited. The one I’m looking at is a 5 year plan where I have to come back and it’s about $1200. I need to get more details on it TBH, but am early in the process of deciding. I used to love to wash and wax my cars but now it’s limited to just washing and I know I don’t have time to wax like I should.

 

Generally longevity/durability and some other attributes. Waxes can look amazing on darker colors but the ones made of natural materials like carnauba do not last long at all. However some waxes are also blended with polymers which are more similar to sealants. Sealants are just an improved version of waxes, they'll last months instead of weeks. Coatings are the latest evolution that can last significantly longer than sealants up to year(s).

There are various other attributes which all have their pros and cons depending on your preferences.

 

As Gorram said the longevity of the coating is the reason to go with a coating. Pro versions, from my understanding, last longer. You can do consumer version as they are fairly easy to apply. Don’t forget a pro version is going to include paint correction in the price.

 

Does anyone know if $1200 for a 5 year version with annual visits is decent?

 

i would ask why you have to return for annual visits and what they are going to do at the visit. Also, does the annual visit cost more? For paint correction and coating that is probably on par with what I have read. I have never priced one out.

 

Thanks!

 

Excellent points - thank you!

 

FWIW, I have a black 19 and I was quoted 1000$ By an independent shop to do paint correction and a ceramic coat. That included a interior detail.. this was at 500 miles.. He told me it would go up a bit if I waited.. He also told me it would last max 2 years. (Western Washington) I didn’t have it done.

 

All that is relative to what product is being applied. If only getting 2 years then it was probably a consumer coating.

 

I am sure this has been asked but I did a search and didn’t find anything. What is a good protectant for the truck for dog slobber. My dog loves to have her head out of the window and gets slobber all down the outside of the truck. I try to get it off as soon as the trip is done but in the summer thats to late sometimes.

 

Best way to fix? Or will it cause further problems unfixed? Got a little close to a branch. I can barely feel it with fingernail, hard to tell in pic but it’s white.

 

The white is likely the scaring of the clear coat so not uncommon. To get rid of the scratch you're essentially leveling the area around it which is why you should never go too far in trying to get rid of scratches that are deep. Minimal polishing will likely get rid of the white and will make the scratch blend in so that most people won't notice it or you'll have to catch the light at just the right angle to be able to see it. You'll likely not have any issues since it doesn't sound like it's that deep. If you're not inclined to grab a polisher and do the whole truck eventually then something like Meguair's ScratchX on a foam applicator or microfiber rag should do the trick.

 

Thanks

 

Quick question. (sorry for no pics at the moment) I have a 2019 currently purchased in late September (daily driver) MGM. For the first few months i was a knuckle head and generated some love marks on the front grill shroud and possibly the front cap in general. My suspicion is just sloppy technique (which i knew better) with a bug net sponge. Its not noticeable when waxed for obvious reasons, but i'm at the stage where I noticed a little over spray along the entire truck (not much but I know its there) from work.

I REALLY wanted to add a sealant and stack wax coat on top when I purchased the vehicle but life was just really busy at that time. Now i'm looking at the best way to start fresh again since I have my weekends back lol (seal & wax). For the last few weeks I been thinking about what process that would be the least abrasive but also correct the imperfections I created to an extent. Obviously I don't want to cut the clear any more than I need to, figuring this vehicle has a long life ahead of it and the thin clear toyota uses.

1) My thoughts were claying, (which i really wish I didn't have to do but overspray)
2) Polish (any suggestions?) with (white pad?) Trying to go the lightest I can but still correct the markings.
3) For sealant/wax stack my mind is kinda set on Jescar Powerlock sealant, stacked with

$21 Collinite 845 Insulator Wax-Easy to Use Carnauba+Polymer Wax Sealant-High Gloss Shine+Durable Hydrophobic Beading & Long Lasting Paint Protection for Cars/Boats/Trucks/RVs & Motorcycles (16 fl oz)

Collinite 845 (I hear these work very well together).

And lastly I will be using a IPA after polishing to remove any residue from the polish before the sealant is layed down. Im familiar with iron remover but Im not 100% sold on if i would need to incorporate that into the cleaning since the truck is pretty new and washed every Sunday (If I need to its a simple process anyway).

Any input on this is greatly appreciated. As of now Im setting a location possibly a large shop or garage out the elements to do this over the weekend sometime in the future. I don't own a paint correction business or anything along those lines, strictly a personal hobby with my vehicles. So I'll be using a Griots G9 which I think will be plenty enough for someone like me. I still bounce around on pads (recommendations?) 3D pads were fine when I used their 3D ONE (which I really liked the wide results I got just changing pads, it finished down surprised well) on a few test panels from my local junk yard.

 

Never understood the stacking of products though that seems to be the go to if you're going to stack. Honestly I'd go with Carpro Cquartz Lite or Gyeon Can Coat which will be significantly quicker to apply (apply and immediately buff off a 2x2' section, rinse repeat for rest of truck) and will easily outperform that combo and you can put it on any surface, pretty sure that isn't the case with those sealants, particularly on black trim. Not sure what the cure time to stack 845 on Powerlock would be but that alone would be a non starter imho. Apply 845 too early and you'll just be removing the underlying Powerlock. I've never seen a good explanation for why to stack what are otherwise decent products on their own. If anything when you stack products the end result will be more negative than positive.

As for the polishing you're just going to have to try and see what works, a very light pad may clean up the slight marring you make with claying but likely wont touch the scratches though it could help hide them and as you said, will preserve clear coat. I'd stick with the 3D One for sure, never used their pad line but never heard any negatives on it. I know Apex Detail recommends the Buff and Shine Uro-Fiber pads which are 50% cut, 50% polish if you do need to go after swirls. You mentioned white pads, color can vary by manufacturer for example Griot's BOSS (solid choice) white pad is their stiffest cutting foam pad where on a Lake Country (also good) line that could be the lightest polishing pad.

As for IronX, I've only seen one panel on about a dozen vehicles I've tried it on to react enough to warrant the purchase and that was the roof of our van. However you'll definitely see results on any badges or cracks and crevices especially on the rear of a vehicle. It all depends on your environment or if the vehicle had a long trip via train (rail dust) which could include a car with no miles on it.

 

For stacking concern the wax would only be there for a gloss enhancer. I thought about ceramic coating but I enjoy detailing and fiddling around on the weekends I have free. To me a ceramic would be a perfect choice for someone that wants it done and low maintenance. Ik that sounds like that's what everyone should want but theres people who like the less long term to try diffrent products out ever so many months ( it's more of a fun hobby than a business for me). For the pad color I know diffrent company use diffrent colors but I was just generalizing as white is ussually on the softer end for most pad brands I used (I should of been more specific lol).

For iron remover I think you call it dead on. I know alot of pros use it in videos but for most it's not needed.

I'm just hoping I can get away with a soft clay and not mar up to bad since the paint is still super young and not neglected.

3D ONE has impressed me in its wide range, even though I'm not a pro nor do I want to pursue that career. I think I can get the results I want just using that. I'm not hard to please and I do live in the real world lol so I know theres no wonder product out there. I'm just still on the fence if it will finish to mirror finish or will I have to step down and get true polish?

 

Never really saw it as low maintenance and I'm with you on fiddling, I've got more products than I know what to do with. Besides no matter what the base is you can always put another product on there if you so desire. Pretty much any of the sprays ceramic based sprays can be used. Some even still use Beadmaker on coatings. I've got a white truck so it's pretty much going to look great from a wash. I just enjoy the beading action more of ceramic that you just don't get with sealants. Longevity isn't that important to me and I'd rather not use one of the full blown ceramics in favor of the "lite" ones.

Not sure on the 3D ONE for an ultimate finish polish have not tried to yet. I usually try to pull off a one step and most of my pads are on the less aggressive side (believer in many pads per vehicle, one pad no more than 2 panels). Though I haven't tried it yet on a whole vehicle, the coolest thing about ONE would be to use a cutting pad, not even wipe the product off the panel you're working on, add a little more product to a polish pad and refine it even further.

 

Yea the little love marks I got ima try a finishing pad with 3D for the beginning on a test spot on the truck. I love the metallic pop on MGM but mannn your on a thin line next to black gotta be aware of washing techniques everytime. White was my first choice because I know the diffrence in up keep in paint color plus white goes with alot of add ons really easy

 

Howdy! I have an 05, and it looks pretty good but I'm trying to get rid of little scratches across the truck, I think that might be preventing that "new car shine" I'm tryin to get close to. I have never had to detail and upkeep a truck before, as my last car was a 16 Crosstrek. I looked at your first post and was going to get: Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit, that brands Scratch X 2.0, and the Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer. Let me know if that sounds like a good start? I wash the truck frequently also. Thank you!