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*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by mShu7, May 12, 2008.

  1. Jun 11, 2010 at 5:17 PM
    #421
    bruinsrme

    bruinsrme Well-Known Member

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    Why?

    Also, what do you use for the spray window cleaner?
     
  2. Jun 12, 2010 at 9:44 AM
    #422
    tvbd56

    tvbd56 Epic Member

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    i think it does the same to the window as it does to the paint, takes off the bumps?

    i use windex
     
  3. Jul 6, 2010 at 3:19 PM
    #423
    DeeKay21

    DeeKay21 Lieutenant Dan.

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  4. Jul 6, 2010 at 9:27 PM
    #424
    schiz94

    schiz94 Thread Jacker

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    Morimoto Projector Retrofit, alpine cda-105,Wheelskins leather wheel cover, wet okoles,5% tint on back and 24% on front two windows,Debadged tailgate,custom sockmonkey centercap decals, xr rims pced gloss black.
    i cant find the boxes or labels for my towels. is it safe to machine wash them with soap? and machine dry? i have an absorber a generic waffle weave and a megiuars supreme shine towel.
     
  5. Jul 6, 2010 at 9:38 PM
    #425
    loandbehold

    loandbehold New Member

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    anybody know of a good tire and wheel cleaner?
     
  6. Jul 7, 2010 at 9:33 AM
    #426
    rb11701

    rb11701 Oh yeah!

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    Rear Suspension TSB, DTRL Mod, aFe Pro-Dry S,USA Spec PA15-TOY iPod Adapter, Dynolock Tailgate Lock, UltraGauge OBDII Scanner, CoverKing Neoprene Seat Covers
    Wash in delicate and hot water. Air dry. No heat dry. Pre-soak if needed. Use any dye/fragrance free product. When the MF doesn't feel 'tacky' anymore, boil in vinegar.
     
  7. Jul 7, 2010 at 9:36 AM
    #427
    rb11701

    rb11701 Oh yeah!

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    I use Castrol Super Clean (i think that is the name, purple bottle in Walmart). I dilute it 3 parts water to 1 part cleaner in a generic high flow spray bottle. I use a boar hair brush and a MF towel on the rims and a fender brush on the tires and inside fender wall and whatever else I can reach. I REALLY like Adam's Green Wheel Cleaner, but it is pricey and then there is shipping. Best wheel cleaner around and and it no way harmful to anything but tire grime.
     
  8. Jul 7, 2010 at 9:37 AM
    #428
    rb11701

    rb11701 Oh yeah!

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    The clay takes all the crap off that plain ol newspaper can't get. Also, if you have some fine polish, that will sparkle them windows right up. Comes out best with a machine polisher, but elbow grease works fine if you got the gusto.
     
  9. Jul 8, 2010 at 11:56 PM
    #429
    blackhawke88

    blackhawke88 wo ai ni bao bei ^_^

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  10. Jul 9, 2010 at 4:07 AM
    #430
    rb11701

    rb11701 Oh yeah!

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    Always go with mild clay. The aggressive kind will leave some marks that will need to be polished out. Just keep the surface lubes good. Also, break that clay in two just in case you drop one.
     
  11. Jul 10, 2010 at 6:17 PM
    #431
    blackhawke88

    blackhawke88 wo ai ni bao bei ^_^

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    ^ thx

    Im about to pull the trigger on a porter cable 7424xp:
    http://www.tools-plus.com/porter-cable-7424xp.html

    is that a good deal on the link? and a major question is if the polishing pad is 6", do I need 6" bonnets or 6.5"? Reason Im asking is because all the bonnets in their package deals are 6.5" and they are harder to find and a little bit more expensive.
     
  12. Jul 10, 2010 at 7:09 PM
    #432
    clarkie152

    clarkie152 Well-Known Member

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    i have some chips on my paint from driving on the highway. whats the best way to resolve this? i have a lot on my bumper and some on my doors
     
  13. Jul 11, 2010 at 12:17 PM
    #433
    blackhawke88

    blackhawke88 wo ai ni bao bei ^_^

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    bump :eek:
     
  14. Jul 11, 2010 at 12:52 PM
    #434
    rb11701

    rb11701 Oh yeah!

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    That is a good deal on the PC. I got mine from there. Not sure what you mean by bonnets. If you mean pads, then I would stay around 6-6.5". You do not put anything over the foam pads. The polish is added to the pad, and removed by hand (a little 50/50 90%+ ISPA and distilled water helps). Checkout ChemicalGuys.com, DetailedImage.com, Adamspolishes.com, AutoDetailingSolutions.com for different stuff.

    Hope that answers you questions. If you need some more help in deciding, PM me and I will help you out. I have been a backyard detailer for about 15 years or so. All those years polishing by hand. Mother of god. It is sooo easy now. You will love the PC. I am getting a flex very soon.
     
  15. Jul 11, 2010 at 12:55 PM
    #435
    rb11701

    rb11701 Oh yeah!

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    Touch up paint is the quick answer. How good it looks is the long answer. Get a bottle of touch up and some toothpicks. Use the toothpick to dap the paint on. Either that or a fine fine artist brush, but I would stick with the toothpick. Let it dry and see how it looks. You can then add some clearcoat the same way. Just a dab only. No globs here or on the paint. You can then wetsand it down and polish it out for almost perfect results but if you never wetsanded, lol.....
     
  16. Jul 11, 2010 at 1:08 PM
    #436
    blackhawke88

    blackhawke88 wo ai ni bao bei ^_^

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    whoa you actually dont put those microfiber elastic pad thingys over the pad? but directly put the polishing compound on it? Does that mean the pad will be dirty and wear out within the first few uses? Or is there a way to clean the foam pad after each use? And, if polish goes directly on that foam pad, what are those elastic bonnets used for? thx!
     
  17. Jul 11, 2010 at 5:26 PM
    #437
    blackhawke88

    blackhawke88 wo ai ni bao bei ^_^

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  18. Jul 11, 2010 at 8:22 PM
    #438
    wmb67

    wmb67 Well-Known Member

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    That kit come with a stock white pad that screws into the machine. Do not use this pad or you may damage your paint! You'll actually use the yellow backing plate with either the orange, white or black pad with either the compound or polish depending on the severity of the swirls/scratches you are working on. Use the orange pad with the compound and the white pad(non-stock) with the polish.

    I would suggest that you also get a 3" backing plate along with a couple 3.5" orange and white pads. These smaller pads are much better for tight corners and around windows and edges. I would start by using the 3.5" pads first on the corners and tight spots then move to the 6.5" pads for the larger panel areas.

    Also invest in some blue painters tape and cover the rubber and plastic trim. This will protect the trim from being stained by the polish and makes cleaning up much easier.

    Good luck, that SWB will look great when finished.

    BTW... a 6" bonnet should fit over the stock white pad. Usually I apply and remove wax by hand then sometimes follow that with a bonnet on the stock white pad to really ramp up the gloss.
     
  19. Jul 11, 2010 at 10:34 PM
    #439
    blackhawke88

    blackhawke88 wo ai ni bao bei ^_^

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    ^ thx man, great info! +1 rep sent :D
     
  20. Jul 12, 2010 at 6:24 PM
    #440
    wmb67

    wmb67 Well-Known Member

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    rb11701 has posted tons of great detailing info and his ask a detailer thread is tremendous.

    Also check out the forums at http://www.autopia.org/forum/forum.php
    They got everything you could ever want to know about technique, polishers, pads, polish, waxes, sealants etc... It's a good group of people offering real helpful info... very similar to tacomaworld.

    Post some closeup pics of your paint before and after paint correction. That SWB will clean up real nice!
     

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