*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

I read that some people can correct faster with a 15MM throw polisher vs the 21MM. The shorter throw helps keep the pad moving on curved area or while during major correction. I never tried any long throw, so I can't comment on if it's true or not.

 

I’ve read where the 21 is great flat panels but areas with curves the 15 is better.

 

For me it depends on panel size and panel curvature. On the Tacoma I prefer the 15mm or mini polisher versions. For a big suv or hood/trunk 21mm sure, but I'm still working small sections at a time when polishing and would need the 15mm or mini for tighter areas. I guess it's a preference thing.

 

The shorter throw of the 15MM polisher allows the pad to spin faster vs the larger throw of the 21MM. I think the thread I read said something about rotational mass. I'll see if I can find the thread and post a link.

 

The thing I don't get is, People like the 21MM for larger panel but you can only work in small area. Instead of the whole panel at once. While a 15MM has a shorter throw it can get the job done for the size of the correcting area. Probably just as fast.

 

Shoutout to Griot's. The polisher I've been using for the past 6 years gave out. I didn't buy it directly from them, but they honored the warranty and sent me a new G9 (once I sent the old one to them and paid the difference in original price).

 

Hey everyone, I’ve never gotten a detail on my truck and was looking at paying some some to do it. Does this look about right for costs? Should I pay for the ceramic coat? Is it a good product? Any and all tho it’s are appreciated.

 

I haven't seen the detailer's work, but it sounds like a deep cleaning inside and out followed up with ceramic infused paint sealant. The Jescar ceramic sealant is good stuff, but it's not a ceramic coating. https://jescarfinishing.com/collect...-products/products/jescar-ultra-lock-plus-8oz You might get 3-6 months from it. I haven't used M27.

There's a huge difference between professional ceramic coatings like Gtechniq light and something ceramic from say Walmart or even Meguiar's professional line. The longevity of the ceramic, the temperature ranges they can be worked with, the prep involved, the skillset and tools needed to apply them, ect.

https://theragcompany.com/collections/gtechniq-coatings-protection

Also, it doesn't sound like the paint is being polished after the clay bar/clay mitt. Just clayed and followed up with M27 or Jescar. The clay will remove bonded contaminates, while introducing light scratches in the clear. Those will need to polished out before applying a ceramic coating, sealant, or wax.

If you want a true ceramic coating you're probably starting around $1000 and up and you'll need to find an experienced detail shop to do it.

That said, I'll bet the results would look decent and the M27 or Jescar would last 3-6 months.

 

I have the Jescar Ultra Lock. I only got 2 months of protection. After a month the Jescar started failing. I let it cure for a hour before removing.

I got better protection from Power Lock, 6 months plus.

 

Hello,
So what can I use on my tonneau cover to stop the water spots. It is a folding solid type...

 

I use 303. It washes off when it gets wet, so you'll have to reapply as needed.

 

If you want something a little more durability, a ceramic trim product works better.



This is what I'm going to try next

 

I bought a ceramic coating kit but before I tackle that, I plan on going over with paint correction and polish, after a wash and clay session.
My question is, how much of a pain would it be to paint correction & polish by hand? My trucks paint/clear coat is in pretty good condition with only mostly micro scratches in the clear coat. I’m thinking I’d probably cause more issues using a mechanical buffer/polisher then there is now. I was looking at the Adams hand buff and polish kit, since I don’t own a buffer though I can barrow a 10” one from a friend. Here is the kit-

$30 Adam's Polishes Car Scratch & Swirl Remover Hand Correction System, Remove & Restore Paint Transfer, Minor Imperfections, Oxidation, Paired with Orange Compound Correction Pad Applicator (2 Step Kit)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08464LFPS?smid=A1VBNNXVDKAOR1

Here’s what my trucks paint looked like after the last clay and ceramic spray. I’m sure a closer pic would help but she’s too dirty for that right now-

 

I doubt you are going to correct paint by hand. If so it’s going to take forever. Do not use a 10 inch buffer that is way too big and if I had to guess it’s a cheapo from Walmart and will likely do zero correction. Plus it’s way too big for working areas of the paint.

 

The opposite is true, you'll do more damage by hand than a "dual action, random orbital" will do. Even if neither was doing damage, you'd take away more material by hand than the polisher would which is not what you want in the long run if you intend to keep it for a while.

 

Thanks for the advice. I’ll wait and get a decent da buffer/polisher and use that. Maybe I’ll start on my wife’s car to learn how to use it

Her car could use it more than my truck and I can use the ceramic spray on hers as well.

 

Almost any random orbital polisher will do if you're on a budget. I think Adams used to rent their polishers out, but I'm not sure of they still do. Griots used to be cheap. The pad and polish selection will make the biggest difference. Rupes pads/Jescar polishes are near the top of list.

You could probably get away with the least aggressive polish you can find and a soft pad if your paints relatively swirl free. You don't have to have 100% correction and it's not always possible. For ceramic longevity I'd pick something other than Adams. Perhaps Crystal Serum Light, but I've still got tons of Adams products myself including Adam's swirl killer mini, which is perfect for the Tacoma. It just takes a little more time than a 15mm polisher.

As far a technique check out YouTube. It's pretty hard to screw up the paint with a random orbital polisher as long as you keep the machine moving (1-2 vertical passes and 1-2 horizontal passes, overlap passes 25%-50%, then check results and continue or change polish/pads if needed). Also, swap pads out for clean ones every other panel. You'll want a higher speed like 4-5 for correcting and 2 or so for applying waxes and sealants.

Follow up with some denatured alcohol to remove the oils before ceramic coating.

 

Thanks for the advice. Does not sound too bad, just need to pay attention and let the the polisher slide over and not make it dig in. I’ve been watching a few videos but most seem to push a product rather than a how to.
My trucks paint is in pretty decent shape, no major scratches maybe one or two deeper into the clear coat… and where my wife’s car door would rub when opened before I put sliders on.

 

Check out Car Craft Auto Detailing on YouTube. He's got several videos on polishing. You'll see how he explains the need for a little bit of variety in pads and liquid abrasives to determine what the actual paint you're working on needs. It's not always safe to assume what someone else used even if they have same model, year and color.

 

My previous trucks have had paint-matched fenders, and I'd keep them looking nice and not avalanche black. Does any of the 303-type UV protectants actually help keep the trim color like new? I've had bad experiences with 'shine' products actually making things worse.