OFFICIAL DOUG THORLEY HEADER GROUP BUY!

Yeah gadget Thanks for the update, hopefully I get a nice confirmation email saying my headers are shipped. Any one have any pics of the DTLT uninstalled??

 

WOW. Those look so sexy!!

 

You get the CEL resolved ?

 

My long tubes showed up over a week ago. As the story unfolded I had 2 AFR sensors 'welded' into my OEM manifold bungs. Both AFR sensors were ruined upon removal, despite PB Blaster and TLC.

Fast forward to one week later...

I ordered 2 new AFR sensors and had a good friend blast and retap the OEM manifolds. He polished the gasket face, added dust covers over the AFR sensor threads and I must say they look pretty darn good.

Here's a picture of the cleaned up OEM exhaust maifolds next to the DTLT headers... which are BEGGING to get on my truck!





The new DENSO AFR sensors showed up today and are in the long tubes, ready for a Saturday morning install. I can't wait to get my truck back!!! It's been an entire week w/o my Tacoma and sharing the Sequoia with the wife is getting old.

 

Awesome man! Good to hear that you got that taken care of pretty easily. That'll be great to have on hand too. Definitely takes the guess work out of things

 

Alright just got off the phone with the man, the myth, the legend Gadget. He stated he just got off the phone with Thorley and they had 6 pallets ready to go. The long tubes should be on there way out and if they did not get shipped today they were gonna get shipped on monday. Guys wit the oddball headers are still going to be a little bit. I figure I would throw a update so we all know what the deal is. Alomost to the finish line guys.

 

Hey was wondering. Did anyone get a notice about dt sending out the 1gr long tubes today? i didnt get a notice on my headers...

 

Please see last post.

 

Yes, I'm thinking about selling them.

Got the long tubes installed tonight. Drivers side took FOR-FREAKIN-EVER! Didn't need to remove any studs, found out that by rotating the steering wheel the (tie rod?) rotates and it creates more room. Much persistance, 4 hands and a bunch of work got them in.

Some tips:
1. use a small flat head screw driver to help remove the O2 sensors
2. remove the brackets (or hangers) that mount to the engine block with 2 bolts and hold the OEM exhaust pipes in place with 1 bolt (this creates much more room for installing the long tubes)
3. remove the OEM y-pipe from the rubber hangers to let it move around more
4. you don't need to undo anything on the passengers side except the bracket in step 2 and the airbox
5. remove and install BOTH headers from the bottom (drivers side is a breeze and you dont' have to mess with the A/C lines)
6. I also removed the bracket on top of the OEM y-pipe and this let the exhaust move like CRAZY.
7. unplug ALL O2 sensors, even the pre-cat ones. You'll end up moving the exhaust around a bit and you don't want to stress the connections.

I've got everything back together, O2 sim is installed, airbox is back on, crush gaskets are in, all hardware is finger tight except the header nuts which are torqued nicely, and I will double check everything else in the morning after there is more light to work with before torquing everything down.

This install kept getting harder and harder... by the time I was done I felt like a freakin' VIKING!!!

I hope the rest of the job goes smooth and no codes are thrown after I finish tightening everything up in the morning... wish me luck.

 

hey doc...found those Denso #234 9051 front upstream right and left sensors on rock auto for $124.79 plus shipping and tax...should i get a new set of sensors and save my self the trouble or at least have a set incase things go wrong?

has anyone else had issues taking off the sensors?

i have an '06 with 85k miles on it so things aren't in the cleanest and newest condition....

 

I'd hate to tell you to buy something you don't end up needing, but if you go that route, I got that exact part number from StockWiseAuto on Amazon.com (1-877-869-5400) for $106.29 each and free shipping.

The headers are on and everything's buttoned up. No thrown codes, just some white smoke for the first 10 miles. I'm not sure if that's the new headers burining off stuff or if I got WD-40 inside the manifolds when trying to loosen the studs in the enginer block (don't waste your time doing that), those suckers are on tight and I'd hate to see someone snap a stud in the block.

First impressions...

Noise - No noticable difference at all. I was hoping for some good changes, but no luck. I guess it's time for some exhaust mods.

Performance - My butt dyno has been ruined by a 400+ rwhp sports car so I can't really tell much of a difference, but around 4000 rpms there may be a little bump.

 

i think the only people who will see any kind of major difference will be the boosted guys i would be able to vouch but mine are still MIA. the new larger primaries on a n/a truck might make you suffer a little in the lower rpm's but im surprised you didnt notice any change in exhaust tone? Maybe mine will show next week and i can have some kind of comparison.
How did you get your refund from gadget for your overcharge? i have had a 4x4 y pipe that i ordered the same day as the headers that has been on back order and have sent him 4 messages 2 by email 2 by pm requesting that the y pipe and gasket backorder be canceled and a refund issued over the span of the last week and have not heard a reply from him?

 

I sent an email reply to the email that confirmed my order and Gadget then refunded my overcharge to my Am.Ex. pretty quickly.
Also, I've called him twice and if you select the sales option, he usually picks up the phone. I've tried the technical support option (#3 maybe) but no one answered that line.

I've considered installing a S/C, but my truck doesn't have ATRAC or an LSD so I'm worried about how the truck will handle the extra power (it could get tail happy and I'd hate that). I should just keep saving for the vehicle in my sig and quit wasting money on this truck.

 

Update - After putting about 50 miles on the new long tubes today, I can now say that I hear a hollow, tingy, raspy noise at WOT. It's louder than stock and you can hear the difference only slightly with the windows up. With the windows down, at idle, the Tacoma ticking noise is much more noticable than ever before (not that I care, but just thought I'd share).

I'm not sure this was the sound I was going for, but there's no way in HELL that I'm taking the driver's side one off... EVER!

 

After a month or so on my little 4 banger I'm very pleased with the results. It simply runs the way I thought it should when I bought the truck (able to decently get up to highway speeds) with the flow of traffic.

While at highway speed it's strange to drive the way it was (playing dead like the way it was) and now being able to hit the throttle and see 90mph in just a few seconds is simply outstanding! Now I actually ENJOY playing dead on the highway instead of actually BEING dead on the highway.

I'm liking this truck more and more!

E3 spark plugs, next.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JBfjU3_XOaA&feature=player_detailpage

Steve

 

so I just picked my truck up from the shop with my new headers!!!!







http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWmnKgEC4sQ

 

you had a shop install them? what did that run ya?

 

172.50

 

I bet the V6's would cost more but you'd miss the satisfaction of getting the drivers side on!
Make sure to check the torque of the nuts on the headers in a few days. The V6's need a M12 socket and about every combo of extension known to man to get all 12 nuts tight... not sure about the 4 cylinders though.

 

Still waiting