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OFFICIAL DOUG THORLEY HEADER GROUP BUY!

Discussion in 'Group Buys' started by 97yota4wd, Jan 18, 2011.

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  1. Jun 8, 2011 at 8:40 PM
    #721
    Stuardoslls

    Stuardoslls Well-Known Member

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    Just Rims and Tires: FJ Cruiser 16" wheels w/ 265/75/16 BFG KO2's
    Here are the PICS:

    This is a view of the bottom of the header. That is flange that I couldnt get on... 2 of the bolts are a pain
    [​IMG]

    2 Pics of it all installed from up top
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Jun 9, 2011 at 6:10 AM
    #722
    maxpower29

    maxpower29 Well-Known Member

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    All season mats, 2nd filter delete, DT header, Jardine cat-back, URD shifter, Bilstein 5100's all around at .85 front with Eibachs + .25 passenger/.5 drivers spacers and 1.5 AAL, 0w20 synthetic, Scanguage II, extra D rings, OEM backup camera+Mirror, bed mat, Extang Solid Fold, Popnlock 5300, Pro Comp 7089's 4.5bs 285/70/17 Revo 2s, De-badged
    Whats the sound difference with just the header on?
     
  3. Jun 9, 2011 at 7:48 AM
    #723
    NYCO

    NYCO go explore...

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    wow that looks muuuuuuch easier of an install than the v6 long tubes!
     
  4. Jun 12, 2011 at 6:53 PM
    #724
    Dave333

    Dave333 Well-Known Member

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    No my 2 hours was for the V6 LT's. I don't see how it's taking everyone so long. If you use flex head wrenches, you can get all the bolt heads easily. I loosened the Y-pipe first, then removed all the bolts for the supports and removed those. Then loosened and removed all the bolts on the headers. I sent the LT's up from underneath instead of trying to drop them in from the top. Have a friend apply rearward pressure to the Y pipe and both sides slide right in. I started at 2:40pm and was putting tools away at 4:00pm. Also use liquid wrench on all the bolts and let that sit for about 10 minutes. I do a lot of work on vehicles though, I restore old cars as a hobby so bolt on parts are usually pretty quick work.
     
  5. Jun 15, 2011 at 9:08 AM
    #725
    Stuardoslls

    Stuardoslls Well-Known Member

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    Not much different. It sounds slightly deeper but maybe its just my imagination. I am getting better gas mileage, and seems to have more torque, I find that I am not going from 5th gear to 4th gear as often
     
  6. Jun 15, 2011 at 9:15 AM
    #726
    mjohn617

    mjohn617 Well-Known Member

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    Haha...not doing it...can't make me!
    I had a significant sound difference with the LTH, pipe bomb and TRD CBE and powerstick.....too loud! I removed the pipe bomb and replace with factory, the sound is freakin sweet!

    My $.02, if you are going with LTH, keep the Y pipe cats, or cut them out of the old piping and put them in your new pipe...it's a must for the right sound!

    I highly recomend the Powerstick with LTH's also...the sound is sweet!
     
  7. Jun 15, 2011 at 9:55 AM
    #727
    NYCO

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    what is this powerstick you speak of?
     
  8. Jun 29, 2011 at 10:21 AM
    #728
    NYCO

    NYCO go explore...

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    anyone dyno test their longtubes yet?
     
  9. Jun 29, 2011 at 4:50 PM
    #729
    tacomtn

    tacomtn Well-Known Member

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    +1 on the Dynotest. I'd like to see some actual results if these things actually help. Same with CAIs and aftermarket exhausts. There's gotta be some dyno test results.
     
  10. Jun 29, 2011 at 4:57 PM
    #730
    Lucario Runner

    Lucario Runner Resident Truck/SUV racer

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    AFE stage II intake, APR X1, URD 70mm Throttle Valve (ported and knife edged), NST intake manifold spacer, URD spec U headers, Denso IKH20, URD fuel pump, APR fuel rail, URD Y pipe, URD spec u catback, lightweight water pump pulley, Greddy sandwich cooler plate, Earls oil cooler, IPT valve body, FJ TRD shocks, Cusco front and rear sway bars, Energy Suspension rear track rod bushings and rear link bushings, Carbotech pads, Stoptech ss brake lines, Stoptech slotted rotors, Motul 600 rbf, Limited Grill, Painted hatch cover by me, Painted valve covers by me, Cobra CB, TRD rad and oil cap, Escort 8500, Autometer oil psi and temp gauges, AEM wideband afr gauge, Flexpod, Pioneer 400w speakers.
    There is this. If you look you start to make more power than stock at around the 3000 RPM mark both HP and TQ. So far I like my long tubes, but only because I can run the hot APR tune.

    DTLTDyno500x500.jpg
     
  11. Jul 5, 2011 at 7:54 AM
    #731
    NYCO

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    yea we've seen the fj dyno's, but no one has posted anything with a taco yet for the v6 long tubes
     
  12. Jul 5, 2011 at 8:00 AM
    #732
    97yota4wd

    97yota4wd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    alot of metal, small engine, decent travel.
    caged, camburg long travel, 50t leafpack (soon to be installed) light rack over cab, 5pt harnesses etc
    would also like a dyno for the 4 cylinder:) haha
     
  13. Jul 5, 2011 at 8:13 AM
    #733
    NYCO

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    :thumbsup:







    so up to 2700 rpm we lost hp?
     
  14. Jul 5, 2011 at 8:18 AM
    #734
    97yota4wd

    97yota4wd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    alot of metal, small engine, decent travel.
    caged, camburg long travel, 50t leafpack (soon to be installed) light rack over cab, 5pt harnesses etc
    :eek::(
     
  15. Jul 5, 2011 at 8:28 AM
    #735
    Lucario Runner

    Lucario Runner Resident Truck/SUV racer

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    yes, but that's the general rule of thumb of longtubes. Now if you were to get shorties and bypass that with no cats, that might be something of interest to you if you want low end power. Or if you were to custom make your own headers that would also be interesting.
     
  16. Jul 8, 2011 at 7:40 AM
    #736
    NYCO

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    so the $1,000,000 question is.....how can we gain back some hp in the lower rpm range?

    is there something that we can do to our exhaust after the headers that can gain back some of that difference? maybe to lose some of the >2700 rpm hp gains and move it back down the rpm range?

    i'm looking into re-gearing to gain some more torque out of my lower end rpms, but if there's a cheaper way to regain some lower rpm torque and hp i'd be all for it...
     
  17. Jul 8, 2011 at 7:45 AM
    #737
    NumNutz

    NumNutz One of the original 7928

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    Lots.
    Intake more air through a supercharger.
     
  18. Jul 8, 2011 at 8:10 AM
    #738
    NYCO

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    yea don't really care much about the S/C

    re-gearing is the most expensive mod i plan on doing in the future on my truck...already got a good amount of $$ into it

    purpose of getting the lower rpm hp and torque back would be for the trails...not often are you hitting the >2700rpms off road unless you are baja'n
     
  19. Jul 8, 2011 at 10:51 AM
    #739
    NYCO

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  20. Jul 8, 2011 at 11:03 AM
    #740
    Lucario Runner

    Lucario Runner Resident Truck/SUV racer

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    AFE stage II intake, APR X1, URD 70mm Throttle Valve (ported and knife edged), NST intake manifold spacer, URD spec U headers, Denso IKH20, URD fuel pump, APR fuel rail, URD Y pipe, URD spec u catback, lightweight water pump pulley, Greddy sandwich cooler plate, Earls oil cooler, IPT valve body, FJ TRD shocks, Cusco front and rear sway bars, Energy Suspension rear track rod bushings and rear link bushings, Carbotech pads, Stoptech ss brake lines, Stoptech slotted rotors, Motul 600 rbf, Limited Grill, Painted hatch cover by me, Painted valve covers by me, Cobra CB, TRD rad and oil cap, Escort 8500, Autometer oil psi and temp gauges, AEM wideband afr gauge, Flexpod, Pioneer 400w speakers.
    That looks like the new header for the 2nd gen 1gr. This fits both 1st and 2nd engines ( i have them on my truck) but now which engine did the dyno? to me this looks like a 2nd gen dyno.
     
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