OFFICIAL GB: SHOK INDUSTRIES SOUND DEADENING MATT

You never linked me to all these GB's you setup!

 

i thought i did,
My oppologies.
i have more to come shortly

 

As mentioned this group buy is closed.
IF there is more demand email me and ill see if there is enough to establish a new GB

 

That is awesome! You did a GREAT job on this GB!
Ken

 

OK, I finally got off my lazy arse and started the sound deadening project. Today I removed 90% of the interior parts needed to start applying the Shok Mat. Because of some physical limitations, I have to do it in phases. Phase I is removing all the interior parts to access bare metal. Phase II is prepping (vacuuming and cleaning the interior painted surfaces with some rubbing alcohol or mineral oil) and starting to apply the Shok Mat. Phase III is installing DynaPad (or in my case I am trying Stinger "Road Kill" Carpet Pad this time) and Dynaliner. Phase IV is reassembly of the interior.
It took me two hours to disassemble the truck to the point in the pics. Luckily on the Tacos (or at least mine) I did not need to remove the lower dash to access the lower firewall. When I did this job on my '08 Tundra, I spent HOURS scraping off the OEM "sound deadener" (you can see the wiggly lines of the crud on my Taco pics). I am NOT doing that this time, I don't think it was worth the effort (and blisters). I do still have some small parts to remove like the ducting and some other little brackets to install Shok Mat under it. One tip I have for people doing the install is to take a Magic Marker or some colored pen (red works good) and draw circles around the spots where the clips attach that hold the plastic panels on. I also do the same for bolt holes that are used to hold panels, seat belts, etc. to the body. And make sure to leave enough room for the seat belt and seat brackets to sit flush against the body.
I will try to post some more pics as the project continues through the next week. Right now it is time for ice packs!
Ken

 

How difficult is the carpet to remove and reinstall? I replaced the carpet in my Subaru and it was a real pita. Were you doing the roof as well? I'm surprised there's no sound deadening on the back of the truck lol.

 

Sorry it too so long to reply, some SOB hit several neighborhoods in my area and vandalized the local cable TV boxes stealing the "signal amplifiers" and cutting the coax cables and others, so I had no TV or internet all day.
The carpet is easy to remove, no worries there. Once all of the interior trim is removed, the only things holding the carpet in place is some plastic clips under the floor board trim at each of the doors, and a couple of screw on the passenger side foot well. There is some Velcro holding it in place too near the pedals. It is really no big deal.
This is my second time around doing this project on a truck and so far the Taco is much easier. I am SUPER anal when it comes to any project on my truck, so I always "overkill". If I were giving advice to people before taking on this project it would be:
1) Make sure to get a set of trim removal tool. Amazon has this set:

$15 Cal Hawk Tools CAPTR11 Trim Removal Tool Kit

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009QLBDSW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
that I use and it is great. You can remove a lot of interior parts without marring or scratching the surface.
2) Don't warm up the Shok Mat prior to removing the paper backing. If the butyl rubber is too warm it is hard to remove the paper backing.
Peel of the backing paper partially, then start applying the Shok Mat with a roller peeling off the backing paper as you go to reveal the adhesive butyl rubber.
3) MAKE SURE to mark all of the holes for bolts and the snaps used to hold interior trim in place with a marker so you can cut a holes out of the Shok Mat to allow for the retainer (bolt, clip, etc.). Also make sure that there is enough room cut out of the Shok Mat and padding to allow the seats and seat belt anchors to sit flush against the metal.
4) I keep track of all hardware by using baggies and labeling them "Center Pillar", "Rear Seat", "Amplifier", etc. This helps not get the hardware and other retainers mixed up.
5) Buy a set of replacement tri retainers like these http://www.ebay.com/itm/30x-for-GM-...&fits=Make:Toyota&hash=item43c3a2209e&vxp=mtr
for replacing broken clips. In fact, if you plan on doing a fair amount of mods on the interior or running wires, etc. from the rear/front of the truck into the cab that requires trim removal, buy a kit with a variety of retainers. I know that guys go through the plastic fender well clips quickly so that is another one to add to the list. I have a complete kit of a variety of retainers so I never get stuck shorted on a retainer.
6) Finally, I would say TAKE YOUR TIME. Don't rush the job, you are asking for trouble and shortcuts sometimes end up costing you a lot of time.


Guys I am no pro at this by a long shot, but I do like to pass on any information so that you can learn from my many mistakes (and rare victories). From what I have seen from the Shok Mat, this GB was a STEAL. You get a LOT for your money. I am doing the floor and back wall first and then plan on doing the doors and maybe the roof. I was the first to question this GB when proposed, but Manethon I owe you an apology and a TON of thanks. This was a GREAT deal on a GREAT product. Thanks for putting this GB together, I know that it is a PITA and brother, you know how to pick the products and handled the GB very well. I will also say that Shok Mat customer service is awesome. They have definitely got a new repeat customer!
Ken

 

OMG. Day three of the install and now I remember why I said I would NEVER install sound deadener in a vehicle again after my '08 Tundra! I am getting way to old for this crap.
Ken

 

Where does the most road noise come from in our trucks? My BFGs are so loud. I figured I'd do the doors one weekend and the rest of the interior another weekend. Thankfully I have another car to drive in the spare time lol

 

Honestly, depends what you have done to the truck: My truck is currently stripped of all panels as well as the cab flow vent on the passenger rear quarter.I personally get a ton of noise from that. I pulled my rear door's old deadened and it's the major source of road noise now that even the old
Stuff is off.

Road noise in the Tacoma IMO is from the doors, and kick panels.
I plan on stuffing another 2 packages of deadened intoy trucks only rear door and roof. When I had my old setup the bass actually ripped the metal roof sheet off the roof cross members. I fixed that issue but is like to add additional
Strength to those joints

 

Ken,
Thanks for the feedback! This is exactly what I was hoping to achieve.
Stay tuned for some more up and coming group buys

 

My pleasure, thank YOU for putting this buy together!


Oh, one thing I forgot to add to my list of recommended steps:
Take pictures of the various areas BEFORE and after removing components, trim and carpet. There were a couple of parts I found and thought "Where the heck did this go?) then I looked at the pics I took after removing the carpet and it made total sense. It is really helpful.
Ken

 

I have a dumb question; I bought some Stinger Electronics Road Kill Carpet Pad Sound Deadener to lay on the floor boards. The pad has a dense foam side and an even more dense, plastic like side. Which side goes up/down?
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ken

 

How many packs do you think it will take to do your dbl cab?

thx

 

Today I put most of the truck back together except for the back wall trim and rear seats. I bought two packages of Shok Mat and still have 7 1/2 sheets left (I think each box had 8?). So to do just the floors and back wall took just over one box. I am planning on doing the doors next (inner AND outer panels) which will take at least two sheets per door, then if I am still breathing I will do the roof some day
Funny thing, I took the truck to the store this afternoon and was listening for road noise. I kept hearing this weird wind noise, but it wasn't coming from any of the windows, it sounded like it was coming from the back wall which has Shok Mat on it, but the trim was left un-installed. Finally I figured it out, it was the venting from having the air on! Not the A/C, just air blowing in through the vents. My old Tundra used to have an "exit" vent for the incoming air, but I have no idea where the air exits on the Taco. When I turned the air off, the sound would immediately go away! All I can say is that it MUST be quieter already, even with the rear wall trim uninstalled if the loudest noise that I hear is air escaping from the cabin!
I know that on my Tundra the real noise dampening came from doing the doors, and I think it will be similar on the Taco. The doors are MUCH easier to do than the floor. If I were on a strict budget and only had enough for one at a time, I would probably do the doors first and see if I was happy with the result. Then, I would pursue the floor and roof. Just my 2 cents.
Ken

 

Definitely doors first
Another solution to the rear cab exit vent is to take a large capacity plastic bag, double bag it and get low expanding foam. Place the bag in the panel behind the rear seatbelt pocket( location of exit vent) and spray a little bit into the bag. It will expand and seal that hole without massive mess. I plan to do this again after I run 8 1/0 through the vent like I did before.

 

Thanks for the response. Just wanted to make sure I get enough, before I start tearing everything apart.
I've been wanting to do this for a long time.

 

Any more progress pics?

 

What deadener you gonna use

 

If you block the air exit vent (or whatever it is called) that seems like it would cause the air coming in through the air vents to decrease dramatically and maybe even stress the fan motor, right?


I will try to post some more pics this evening, I did take a few more at different stages of the project.


BTW, I wanted to clarify something I said earlier about removing the carpet; The carpet itself is very easy to remove, like I said there are two clips on each side that you unsnap from the plastic that houses the wiring under the plastic trim near the doors. The hard part, or at least tedious is removing all of the interior components to get to the carpet. There is a LOT of hardware (nuts, bolts, and plastic clips) involved. I put everything in separate plastic baggies and labeled them and thank GOD I did! There were a few spots that I definitely needed to know where some of the bolts went.


I think I am going to need one more pack if I do the roof. Dang, now I have to pay retail!

Ken