Official Tennessee Thread

so yes, I checked the POS and NEG screws on the blue sea that I used for the lights and once connected, it showed 12V passing though.
I had the switch grounded to a screw that is directly behind the little cubby that's directly in front of your left knee as you sit in the driver seat (coin pouch or whatever that little pocket it). My old wiring system used that as a ground and the switch worked so I assume its still good.

 

Is the switch lighting up?

 

I usually forget to check the fuse in the blue sea.

 

It did NOT on my last attempt (when i orignally had the switch wired, the LED was ON when the lights were OFF and the LED went off when the ditch lights were switched on (that was annoying and I am trying to fix that with the jumper between the positives on the switch)

 

After looking at the pictures of my bumper I've decided I need a much wider stance. What all are my options?

 

Well this is what I would do since you have it all off the truck again I'm assuming. If not still do this. Make sure the lights work. Test each one individually and make sure you didn't get some crap lights. It's happened.

Next check your relay. Very easy to do just like you have it. Flip your switch if it's still connected. You should hear the relay click. If no clicky not worky. If you don't have it hooked up to a switch just very quickly touch that wire to the battery and you'll hear a click. Don't hold it there you might burn it up. Just a quick twitch and done. If no clicky no worky. You following me slick?

Ok if you hear the click on the relay via switch then your switch is working, and your relay is working And the lights passed your test , You have a bad ground on the actual lights.

If no click with the switch but you hear it on the battery then your switch is shit.

If no click on battery then bad relay.

Wiring shouldn't be as complicated as you've made this.

 

Wait what the led is on when the lights are off and goes off when the lights are switched on?

 

That sounds like you switched the wires for the switch. You have a hot wire running to your ground and vice versa.

 

good point. I just checked the fuse and it was good to go (I visual inspected it way before now, and it looked good so I didnt check it earlier)

 

OK, I had the lights/relay hooked up and everything worked. And yes, the LED went off when I flipped the light switch on, and vice versa. but even then, we tried hooking up a NEG jumper and that didnt fix it, we then tried a POS jumper and that didnt fix it, so I said fuck it and the LED will be on 24/7 unless the lights were on (now that I have everything unwired, I do not want to make that same mistake, whatever mistake that was).

And I wanted to show you all the picture because you're right, this shouldnt be that hard and I'm not a complete idiot (contrary to popular belief ) This should have worked in my mind, which is why I am hoping I narrowed this down to a bad ground on the switch.

 

The led shouldn't be on 24/7 unless. You either have ground switched with a pod wire or you have the two pos wires switched on the switch. That's an easy fix.

 

When you say everything worked do you mean lights worked and all or just relay and switch worked?

 

Here is a quick sketch.

 

my entire ditch light system worked. I took it all down to wire it all to the blue sea fuse panel and make things cleaner

 

And then what happened

At what point did something go screwy and what exactly happens

 

When I went to rewire everything from scratch last weekend. I hooked everything up and when the moment of truth came to flip the switch in the cab.....nothing haha

 

And that's when the led went screwy? On the switch ?

 

negatron, the led on the switch has been screwy since day one.....like 4 months ago haha

 

Fuck dude idk I'm going to sleep I'll read over this tomorrow and call me after you've seen me post something. I pmd you my number.

 

I might have found the problem in the sketch...im thinking for a sec