Official Tennessee Thread

Bull Bars are popular here!

Anyone know the rock or metal radio stations near Nashville? All I find is rap or country.

 

105.9 the rock

 

I'm surprised you can find rap. Haha

 

102.9
98.3
105.9

 

102.9 is all types of rock. 105.9 is classic rock. I wish there was a metal station, but there is not.

 

It's 2015, stream that shit

 

Less rear brakes, more smokey Joe burnouts

 

I do.

I also still use cd's

 

I still do too. But since I'm an audiophile, CDs get expensive.
I only have a couple CDs that I got(\stole) from friends

 

I typically keep my old iPhone in my truck hooked up via Bluetooth. I have some cds still but my attention span is too short to listen to that many songs from the same artist in a row lol and I f'n hate the radio with a passion

 

Best solution iPad in dash and Apple Music

 

rap is universal. there is no escape.

no rotten apples in my truck...

still in free trial period of XM. #40 Liquid Metal

 

Just got an alignment this morning. They came back with these numbers and I was like "i'm sorry what?" It took an hour and a half for them to get these numbers. They did not make me pay. I am actually rather surprised though. It tracks totally straight. Didn't wander on the highway up to 70 when I tested it out. Tire is basically centered in the wheel well.

 

1st gen problems.

 

yeah...
I've found some different ideas on what's best.
Too bad none of the engineers I know from auto industry ever did drive train work.

Video from toyota says 1st shaft piece should be almost in line with transmission. I think it said 0.8 +/-1 degree. Not perfectly in line though because then fluid won't flow to fully lube the ujoint bearings as it spins. Then make the relative angle between axle and rear shaft section be same as relative angle between the 2 shaft pieces. That method helps maximize ground clearance as well.

Spicer generally says keep true ujoint angle (side and top view compound angle) at 3 deg or less. But, they have a chart with actual max angle based on RPM. They suggest 1 to 1.5 relative between 1st shaft & transmission and then get the axle parallel to first shaft piece.

Then there are a handful of other sites with suggestions.

Raising the center bearing to get the 1st shaft almost aligned with the transmission put too much angle on the back shaft relative to everything else so I'm trying to balance it all out in a different way.

 

They didn't make you pay? Why not? And don't you have stock ucas? If so then I'd say those numbers are good. Most ucas have 3° built in caster

 

I use an app called Tune-In Radio. It's like XM but free. On stations that play continuous music it has a 30 sec commercial every 30 mins or so. On live stations it obviously plays the normal commercials.

 

So I know it's not a yota but...my 4" turbo back rubs like crazy. I know it's rubbing a bolt that holds the crossmember in. I can move it away from the bolt but it just slides back to the original spot and rubs again. Is there any reason an exhaust pipe would need to move freely? I have an idea of moving the pipe away from the bolt and welding a rod to the frame and to the pipe so that it can't slide back to rub up against the bolt. I know it's rubbing there, but I'm afraid it might also be rubbing the firewall and I'll have to figure out how to move it away. Any ideas or suggestions? I don't remember it rubbing when I first got it back from the shop, but as time has passed, it has gotten progressively worse. I went to the bonfire spot up here in cookeville this past weekend and as much as I was flexing going through the trail, it got so bad that it constantly rubbed over every bump and anytime it gets above 2k rpm's. It's extremely annoying and the noise breaks my heart every time haha. I just want to get this fixed ASAP.

 

Yeah they said since they couldn't get it in specs they wouldn't let me pay. I tried. I was handing the guy my card but he refused to take it.

Yeah I have stock UCAs but most people are able to get at least in spec at 2"-2.25" and many people report up to 2.5" being in spec. I am just below 2".

 

First thing I'd do is make sure you don't have a loose bolts or broken/bent brackets anywhere that has caused parts to move out of position. When you push the pipe back out of the way, can you see anything moving with it more than it should?

You need some movement of the exhaust pipes so the normal flex of everything else doesn't put extra stress on headers, turbo, or whatever else by pushing on the pipes too much. That's why we have those rubber exhaust hangers, rubber mount under transmission on crossmember, and so on.

If you do want to weld a rod in to pull the pipe back, I'd suggest doing a 2 piece bracket with one of those rubber exhaust hangers to join them so that it can still move a little when needed. A rigid connection might crack something over time.