Official Tennessee Thread

Probably made by LLumar. I know they made a 50, 70, 80, 90, and 100 several years ago that all had UV protection and heat resistance. The ones that passed more light through were marketed towards classic car owners that didn't want the look of tint, but wanted to protect their interior.

 

Edit: nevermind.

 

Any one in the Nashville area interested in a grille or mud flaps from a 2017 Offroad. Would like 50 for the grille and 50 for the flaps. If you want both I’ll take 80.

 

The bilstein 6112 is like any other coilover in that more lift means more preload which means stiffer ride with less down travel, right?

Put the floorjack out to see what different amounts of lift would look like on my 4R.

2.5" looks good but i might only do 1.5" to save on expense of new UCA.

What might be benefit of more lift though? Just bigger approach/departure angles?

 

They will no matter what have the same "down travel" (extended length) at any height, but obviously if you were already using some of the down travel with the lift, than yes, less down travel.
More preload does usually get stiffer.

And yes, better approach, departure, and clearance throughout so you don't get high centered as easy. Down falls to stability due to higher center of gravity

Although at 2.5 I've heard of people not needed ucas on the t4r

 

I was pretty sure it was illegal across the US. But TN has some pretty lenient laws in other aspects (read as; compared to communist states).

 

Guy that did my tint DGAF. He'll put on whatever you want.

 

I got a good deal on my front door windows and strip @ $50 installed out the door, place does our company trucks. One thing I noticed when shopping around, the price of tint/tinting labor has shot up since I paid for tint last in 2006-7ish. Almost doubled in price.
Had a 2005 Ranger Tremor and got all the windows and strip for less than $175. Some of the places I shopped around at wanted $150 for just my 2 front doors and strip. GTFOH with that!

 

There’s a guy that everyone took their trucks to in high school that’ll put 5 on your windshield if you really want, you just don’t get a receipt lol

 

Just more static ride height. You may bottom out a little quicker than the rest, but that inch that your wheels would have to drop won’t take that much pressure off the tires and should leave you plenty of traction. So long as you have a decent set of skids to keep from getting hung up.

I think whenever I lift mine I’m just gonna do like 2-2.5” so I can get away without new UCA’s.

 

I'm planning to go cheaper/lighter on skids too though so maybe i dont want to be dragging the front.

Thinking about the 3mm ARB set.

 

Tint shops in Louisville area do "roll ups" (door windows) for $59 to $79 a pair.

 

After sliders, a lift, and tires I’m going to start looking into skids. Probably a lighter set like what you’re thinking

 

Is there any advantage to those over the stock skids? Why not just keep using the stock skids until they're toast, and pick up someone else's stockers for cheap/free later on. The garbage man took all of mine.

 

Do they use a special steel?

 

They better for how much those puny skids cost. @totmacher wouldn't you rather build a 3/16 or at least 1/8" skid? Most aftermarket ones are just flat with 2 bends anyway. I have a press and a welder

 

I was talking about full length. I know I’ve got skids that run pretty much to the doors. I guess I don’t need skids further back.

 

The ARB are $430 for engine, mid, trans. Seems like a pretty good price for a 3pc set.

 

Pressed & folded it says.

http://www.pelfreybilt.com/product/arb-5th-gen-4runner-skid-plate-set-non-kdss/

 

3mm just seems very thin if you ever plan on going to places like aop and windrock. I know gideon and I have bent our 1/4" skid plates. Not trying to talk you out of it just hate to see them get bent if you ever slide off a rock and one takes a good hit