OFFICIAL XB LED HEADLIGHTS THREAD 16+

Looks like it but not 100% sure. The side markers require internal trimming anyways so if you need to trim you'll already have to required tools to do it.

 

right. i guess more specifically, i'm wondering if the MESO sidemarker has the same "footprint" as the reflector on the xb. just judging from pictures, it looks really close

 

I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s the same copied size lens.

 

I have a 2020 OR and just installed the 2nd series XBs. DRLs do NOT light up. I asked Morimoto customer service b/c 2020 OR w/o LED headlights come stock w/ LED DRLs, AND description/discussion says the DRLs on Morimotos should just work w/o the separate tap. I was told that the 2nd series DO require the tap, even with 2020 ORs, etc. PITA

 

2020s may be different but on my 2017 it works with no fuse tap.

The install instructions on their website even says to skip the fuse tap install if you have factory LED DRLs (page 11)

https://www.morimotohid.com/core/media/media.nl?id=1718433&c=5129608&h=4b0b32ca6e5a0e8ce1be

Also note that the factory LED DRLs don't turn on by just starting the engine. The parking brake has to be released for the DRLs to turn on.

 

Yea, no, that is what the website says. But this is not correct (confirmed w/ Morimoto). For the newer, _2nd Series_, even the 2020s need a tap... Sucks. In fact, I think it is a bit of false advertising.

 

The 2nd Series of XBs have the bi-mode LEDs (3 x low beams, 2 x high beams).

 

Not true. I have the xb Gen2 and not running any taps. DRLs work fine. But if tap method works for you then you good to go.

 

Travis M (Morimoto)

Dec 9, 2020, 14:27 EST

Hey Erik,

For the Gen 2 units, it is necessary to use the DRL fuse tap for all applications.

Let me know if you still have issues after getting that installed and I'll be glad to assist.

Thanks in advance!
Travis @ Support

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2020 TRD OR, XB Gen2 and the DRL's work fine without the fuse tap (never installed it as they worked right out of the box)

 

Yeah, I never could get the gen 2’s DRL to work without the fuse tap. I’m also, still having the “pita” DRL’s coming on all by themselves throughout the day.

 

So I gave splicing my trucks DRL to where the Morimoto Fuse Tap runs into the headlight and it did not work. With it spliced (Truck DRL to Morimoto Headlight's Fuse Tap) like this I had;

• OFF: All lights off (NO white band)
• DRL: Amber band
• Parking lights: Amber band
• Headlights: White band

Also, with no fuse Tap and the white wire on the Morimoto turn signal connector cut (The one that should connect to my trucks drl wire) I still had;

• OFF: All lights off (NO white band)
• DRL: Amber band
• Parking lights: Amber band
• Headlights: White band

 

Hello,
I bought these headlights during the ill fated group buy at the end of 2019. I noticed recently that one of my low beams has burned out, does anyone know if there is any warranty option to replace them or is it too late? It has also seemed like the low beams are very dim in general, like I can barely see the road over my instrument panel, and the high beams aren't much better. This hadn't been a big issue for me because I was living in the city with lots of street lights. But I recently moved into the woods and it's very apparent how little output I'm getting now.

Other than those issues, I love the look of the headlights and the DRLs are amazing. They're actually brighter than the low beams!

I've been catching up on this thread and all the drama that happened with the group buy so I'm not optimistic that there will be any warranty coverage but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask. I'm grateful for any advice anyone has.

 

I contacted Morimoto again. For 2020s+ w/ LED DRLs stock:

Travis M (Morimoto)

Dec 28, 2020, 17:03 EST

They are 100% plug and play, but the fuse tap MUST be used. This is specifically how the DRL is powered. On the Gen 2 headlights, the DRL can no longer be powered directly from the vehicle's DRL source, because it lacks the required amperage.

Install the DRL fuse tap, and this should resolve your issue.

Travis @ Support

Morimoto is The Benchmark in Automotive Lighting

 

Shoot. I'm sorry to hear about this not working properly. It looks like there is more internal circuitry in the Morimotos than I thought. I appreciate you taking your time to do this, though. I have one more idea based on your findings if you are still looking for a solution.

Based on your results, it seems like on the SR5 DRL/turn connectors with the Morimotos, all leads must be connected. This has me believing that in order for the white band to work properly, the yellow SR5 DRL line on the Morimotos must be connected through AND spliced in parallel to where the fuse tap normally plugs in to. For example, you would splice your white DRL line on the Morimotos but instead of completely terminating the connection, you would run another wire off of it to the DRL connector. If this seems logical to you, it may be worth a try. This is my last guess on how to do it, but it seems promising given that with the DRL fuse tap, the 3-lead connector has all leads feeding to the Morimoto light during operation.

One thing that is interesting is it looks like tech support is saying that there isn't enough current supplied by the factory DRL line for the Gen 2's which is why the fuse tap must be used in all cases. That being said, I am a little confused on this because I have been running my amber LED band no problem without the fuse tap and they are PLENTY bright. To my understanding, the color of the diode doesn't normally play in to the power consumption, but rather the voltage drop across it (correct me if I'm wrong on this). If this is true, then there should be no problem running the white band DRL without the fuse tap.

At the end of the day, I don't encourage the wires of the headlights being spliced unless one has experience with those particular tools, but it is definitely frustrating that a $1500 MSRP headlight has these kind of problems. I hope that this can be improved upon in the future and for the time being, have a band-aid fix like proposed in this post.

Thanks again, JGoliath for testing this out.

EDIT: Removed image and edited content due to error in attached diagram

 

A recent photo of my XBs. Had them for almost a year now.

 

I am running the MESO Customs LED tailight bulb set up and zero issues

 

Word from Morimoto: DRLs on the 2nd Gen XBs don't operate for ANY installation w/o the fuse tap. Splicing the Morimoto DRLs to the existing Toyota wiring will not work b/c of the increased power draw.

There is confusion because the 2nd Gen XBs have been launched w/o clear labeling/description. I am personally not happy about this, but too bad for me. Hopefully others will have a chance to make a more informed choice about 1st vs 2nd Gen XBs. It seems less than candid for Morimoto to sell these without telling consumers they _must_ use a tap if they want DRLs, regardless of the year of your vehicle. The new XBs definitely have plusses (more LEDs in operation) but also this minus:

Travis M (Morimoto)

Dec 30, 2020, 9:01 EST

These headlights are BRAND new, and there's really not any marketing materials created for them, aside from the Headlight Revolution install video, which does demonstrate the DRL fuse tap installation - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqQ0zca3CD0&t=1s

Travis @ Support

 

So for my Gen 2s, I'm not running the fuse tap and the white-band DRL still works when the headlights are turned on (keep in mind the other positions are all orange band for me). I think that the unit must pull power from the low beam harness to power the white DRL when the stalk is in that position. I understand Morimoto's responses; they don't want liability of users accidentally blowing fuses, modifying harnesses, or hurting their vehicle's upstream electronics, but while running my amber DRL, they are certainly bright (similar brightness to images of the white DRL), and I haven't experienced any issues thus far. I don't necessarily disagree with Morimoto; their position is valid, but they took one of the worst features of the Gen 1s (the fuse tap), and now made it mandatory for ALL vehicles. It would have been just as easy to include an onboard relay or transistor that wires to the battery if current draw was an issue.

EDIT: In fact, that could be a great solution for Gen 2 holders that want the white DRL on the TRD models. Take a relay for each headlight, run the truck's DRL line to the relay coil, and run the normally open contact to the headlight's DRL input.

 

So, anyone figured out which fuse to tap so the DRL's never come on?

EDIT - i'm testing out the A/C fuse. seems to work fine so far...