Oh man.. I have some brakes now.

While replacing the wheel bearings, I decided to just replace the brakes with whatever O'Reilly had on hand with only one requirement to run Wagner Thermoquiet brake pads. I run Wagner TQs on four cars already, so I might as well make it five. They are a clean and quiet modern pad GG stopping level pad that do not require shims. I gave up using shims about the time I stopped using CRT monitors.

If I cannot get Wagner TQ, then I will settle for Akebono. Both are GG level pads that perform well for me. Its just a matter of convenience at the time of purchase.

Outside of that, I got over boutique brand pads and rotors a few years ago.

My 99 Prerunner, with me in it, weighs around 3,400 pounds. We're not talking about a 5,000 + pound vehicle. The stock brakes calipers have 4 pistons. It has plenty of stopping power for a vehicle of its weight. It will never be carrying much load or pulling a trailer.

It does not have ABS brakes. After today's brake upgrade, I can easily lock up the front brakes -- more than I want. So it will take some adjustment on my part to keep from locking up the brakes after this upgrade.

I want to post some pictures of the differences between these new O'Reilly rebuilt calipers and the originals that may explain the sharp improvement in stopping power.

The O'Reilly rebuilt calipers have some type of powder coating to for rust protection. Nothing flashy.



I went with the O'Reilly brake hoses since the SS lines I ordered were wrong. Story in another thread.



Bosch Quietcast Rotors. The old rotors were causing vibration. These rotors made a big difference. They have some type of special coating to prevent rust.



The the banjo bolts that came with the O'Reilly calipers have a larger bore compared to the OEM. This may explain why its easier to lock up these brakes compared to the originals.



The O'Reilly brake line has a larger fluid passage area compared to the OEM.



Picture of the 20 year old old line at 228,000 miles that triggered the brake refresh.



At the end of the day, I couldn't ask for more stopping power. If I intended to pull a heavy load, I might have different requirements. So far so good with this combination.

 

Replacing all those parts will definitely make a difference.
When I replaced just the stainless lines front and back there was a BIG difference.

I then decided to replace the booster and brake cylinder just for the hell of it because of my miles and there was an even bigger difference. That was actually a nice surprise for me.

Like you I can lock up my front tires and I have all the braking power I need and then some.
Looks great.

 

Yeah I noticed an improvement with braking just by installing my steel brake lines, they had a larger diameter hole for the fluid and the included banjo bolts had a bigger bore as well.

 

If you replace the rear lines with stainless it will eliminate any line expansions in your system when you push on the pedal and will be a little more firm

 

That's next on the list.

 

Haha, that list never stops

 

where should i put this on my list?
i can use better brakes!

 

Stainless lines front and rear and new brake fluid and better pads will make a big noticeable difference.

Depending on your time frame before winter would be easier

 

Here's a picture of the original line at 20 years and 228,000 miles that triggered the brake refresh.

 

Yea, putting full brake force will expand those lines and give you a softer brake pedal,
Your rears are probably the same, it’s just rubber that fails from time.
Mine were the same Front and rear Like that with cracks

 

Just ordered a stainless set from Wheelers.

 

If you have not flushed the fluid now would be a good time

 

Already flushed.

 

Make sure the rears are adjusted properly. This can help reduce the tendency to lock up the fronts

 

Spot on. I know the rear adjustments are not equally balanced between right and left. Also, the drums look to be original at 228, 000 miles and have a wear lip on the outer edge. The shoes have plenty of pad so they are not grinding into metal. Right now its just a tired old rear brake system.

I haven't worked on drum brakes since 1975. I'm really having to psyche my self up to make that mental trip back into the old days.

 

Yeah...doing drum brakes isn't that common anymore. I bought my daughter a '10 Yaris a couple of years ago. Threw some new shoes on the rear. Not difficult...but still a pain in the ass

 

I couldn't tell any difference when I replaced my rubber lines with steel braided lines, but maybe it's because I reused the OEM bolts, since the LCE kit didn't come with new ones. A noticed a much bigger difference from manually tightening the star adjuster on the drum brakes to get them engaging more.

 

Yes indeed. I thought it was kind of odd that the LCE kit didn't come with new banjo bolts considering the price.

Since the O'Reilly calipers came with some BIG honking banjo bolts, I didn't care. But I still thought it was strange.

EDIT - I would be interesting to see if a BIG bore banjo bolt can be ordered separately for the people who installed stainless lines and still running the OEM size.

 

Maybe I don’t drive my truck enough but I did the Tundra brakes upgrade, new calipers, OEM pads, and rotors with Wheelers SS line. I already had Wheelers SS rear line when I did my OME lift. I also flushed out my brake fluid. All of this and I don’t know if the stopping power is better or I just think it’s better. Wondering if all the extra weight I have on my truck has anything to do with it? One thing is for sure, it’s good to know I have all new front brake components and fluids

 

Something that’s totally over looked in the brake situation is the brake booster.
I had a new booster put in my truck just because it was old and I know 20 years rubber means things are not working like new. This alone made a huge difference.

Possibly because the booster was adjusted for more sensitivity or the rubber seals were just failing, now the booster is working so much better.
When I put my foot on the brake now with the new booster the brake pressure feels progressive.

Meaning when I hold the foot brake in one place the brakes very slowly seam to tighten up with
a little more stopping power stopping the truck faster with more pressure if that makes sense.

For what it’s worth the stainless steel lines and brake booster made the biggest difference for me.
Super happy with my brakes
https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/how-t...forget-the-booster-pin-to-master-cylinder-gap