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Oil analysis.

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by DrVonEvilSatan, Jul 11, 2016.

  1. Jul 11, 2016 at 9:05 PM
    #1
    DrVonEvilSatan

    DrVonEvilSatan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Who here is going through the process of having their oil analyzed?

    If there are enough of us it would be a great resource of data to compile various members and their results. See what exactly these new engines are doing as they wear in. It's also good to see if the 10,000 mile changes are stretching the oil too far.

    If you're looking to do this yourself, www.blackstone-labs.com was recommended to me by "bob is the oil guy." They seem reasonable and give a pretty good narrative breakdown of what the results mean.

    See the attached picture of my recent results of the break in change.

    image.jpg
     
  2. Jul 11, 2016 at 9:13 PM
    #2
    jonnyozero3

    jonnyozero3 Well-Known Member

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    I wonder why Toyota has titanium as an additive in some oils. Interesting.
     
  3. Jul 11, 2016 at 9:22 PM
    #3
    Klen

    Klen New Member

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    Your results make me think it might be a good idea to change the oil at 1K, then 3 or 4k, then go to the 10K changes. That way you catch a lot of the break in debris before it causes additional wear.
     
  4. Jul 11, 2016 at 9:27 PM
    #4
    DrVonEvilSatan

    DrVonEvilSatan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Good question, it's an antiwear additive that takes place of others like ZDDP. You may have heard of this being popular in flat tappet old school pushrod engines. Especially with aggressive cam profiles and heavy spring pressures. Without it the tappets and lobes wear prematurely. ZDDP however fouls cats and really isn't useable in newer cars. The titanium creates a hard oxide layer on high friction iron surfaces.
     
  5. Jul 11, 2016 at 9:31 PM
    #5
    DrVonEvilSatan

    DrVonEvilSatan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking the same thing. This was just an oil drop, I left the filter. The results were surprising to me. I expected more iron and copper, the copper being a chief component of bearings. I'll do it again at 5k with a filter.
     
  6. Jul 11, 2016 at 10:22 PM
    #6
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    Nice idea. I'll try to post my first at 10k.

    What's the cost and process?
     
  7. Jul 12, 2016 at 4:13 AM
    #7
    3dBdown

    3dBdown Well-Known Member

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    Just out of curiosity why, other than just an abundance of caution? All properties were within spec, and the analyst's comments basically say everything's "normal" and they are "Happy with the first report for your new tacoma"
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2016
    morri89 likes this.
  8. Jul 12, 2016 at 7:33 AM
    #8
    DrVonEvilSatan

    DrVonEvilSatan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Click here and fill it out accordingly. 28 bucks for the basic test, $10 more to test TBN, (total base number) which is the number of additives.

    I didn't do TBN because the change was at 1600 miles. I know I had plenty of additives left. One thing to consider with synthetics is the base structure never degrades provided you don't chemically or thermally damage it. The oil change interval depends on how saturated it becomes with contamination and how much of the additives are left. I plan on TBN when I start pushing the intervals out.
     
  9. Jul 12, 2016 at 7:45 AM
    #9
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    What did you refill with? Whatever the dealer had in the barrel, or do you know a specific oil?

    My guess is that you'll find they recommend over 10k changes, if you have a good synthetic in place.

    I personally use 10k intervals rather than what they suggest (12-14k) because it's

    1) easier to remember
    2) aligns with a 2nd reset of the maintenance light
    3) gives me some head room if life is in the way when the 10k interval rolls around

    I have an '04 Highlander that's had Mobil 1 since the first change, with Purolator Pure One filters. Several years those were done at 5k because of many around town short trips. Recent years have moved to 10k due to longer drive cycles.

    A recent service at 112k to to valve cover gaskets and the first plug change showed a nice clean top end, healthy plugs, and a great compression check.
     
    DeadEyeWI likes this.
  10. Jul 12, 2016 at 9:06 AM
    #10
    Tacoma2GR

    Tacoma2GR Well-Known Member

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    I replaced my oil at 2300 adn replaced the filter as well.
    A lot of metal glitter in the oil filter housing, sprayed it out with carb cleaner to get the the shavings out and then let it dry.
    Will be changing the oil again at 5k
     
  11. Jul 12, 2016 at 9:06 AM
    #11
    DrVonEvilSatan

    DrVonEvilSatan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I suspect it will be fine too. Only exception may be those who live in areas of high fine dust and those who off-road often. Maybe people who tow or push the engine fairly hard regularly. But it would be nice to have data to give people solid advice on.
     
  12. Jul 12, 2016 at 9:12 AM
    #12
    splitbolt

    splitbolt Voodoo Witch Doctor

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    I take it, you are using the stock air filter?
     
  13. Jul 12, 2016 at 9:34 AM
    #13
    DrVonEvilSatan

    DrVonEvilSatan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes. I'm not really a fan of aftermarket filters on FI engines. Either they don't filter enough due to being performance/high flow or they're the oil based K&N and end up contaminating the airflow sensor. Either way the stock one works well enough. If I lived in a dusty environment and bombed down forestry roads often I'd probably do a pre filter.
     
    splitbolt[QUOTED] likes this.
  14. Jul 12, 2016 at 9:53 AM
    #14
    DrVonEvilSatan

    DrVonEvilSatan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hellapeno likes this.
  15. Jul 12, 2016 at 10:06 AM
    #15
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    I agree. If you poke around in some of the bulbous oil threads on here, you'll see I have suggested same several times. Unfortunately too many folks make their decisions based on the method their grandfather used, Jiffy Goofs tell them to use, or what makes them 'feel' good.

    Only slight thing I disagree with, and that's the advise giving. It may be ok on a new truck. Used, not as much. Because each vehicle can be used in unique ways in unique environments, anyone who actually cares should spend the money to determine the health of their particular motor, and recommendations specifically for it.
     
    Tcoma16 likes this.
  16. Jul 12, 2016 at 10:33 AM
    #16
    DrVonEvilSatan

    DrVonEvilSatan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Of course, life styles will ultimately dictate how often you change it. It's not possible to say definitively one way or the other without knowing everything from driving styles to climate, to average trip, start/stop cycles and environment. Unfortunately people sometimes don't want to spend an extra 30-40 bucks an oil change to see the health of their engine.

    Think of it as finding a good workout routine, you can borrow someone else's but for best results you'll need something that suits yourself and your health goals.

    What I'm looking at seeing and gathering is generalities and seeing what's left after 5k and 10k changes, seeing what average wear is. This kind of stuff.
     
  17. Jul 12, 2016 at 11:13 AM
    #17
    Woodrow F Call

    Woodrow F Call Kindling crackles and the smoke curls up...

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    I'd think that the copper is usually in the core of the bearings with babbit protecting the copper from contact with the crank, cam or other rotating equipment. I'd think if you saw higher levels of copper, that'd be bad. There maybe some copper in the babbit, but not much.... might be the oil is doing a good job.
     
  18. Jul 12, 2016 at 11:19 AM
    #18
    vuTron

    vuTron Well-Known Member

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    I don't need no test to know that my truck's oil contains a ton of whoop ass in it.
     
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  19. Jul 12, 2016 at 11:30 AM
    #19
    DrVonEvilSatan

    DrVonEvilSatan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    http://bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

    Good read on what each metal level represents.
     
    Tcoma16 likes this.
  20. Jul 12, 2016 at 11:55 AM
    #20
    Woodrow F Call

    Woodrow F Call Kindling crackles and the smoke curls up...

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    Right, that aligns with what I said earlier. The point of my post was that in the journal bearings I have dealt with, the majority of the copper isn't in the babbit which is what is below the oil wedge that the crankshaft rides on. The majority is in the core of the bearing which should never see oil or crankshaft. If you get lots of copper, it's likely a bad thing..... need new bearings bad.
     

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