Oil catch can but why?

That's n/a?

 

PSA: If any body running an ADD-W1 catch can breaks the O ring I have the size in my workshop I will add it to this post tomorrow.

 

In a way...
I'm of the mind, it is engineered for the lowest common denominator end-user.

 

There are 17 different codes it can throw.

 

Great to see, so much cleaner! Nice install.

 

I don't understand why you want to screw with an engineered system on a vehicle from a car company known for reliability. Your engine is designed to burn this stuff and they run quite a long time without venting to the atmosphere.

Not caring about just dumping stuff in the air is honestly just stupid. You don't have to be a hippie tree hugger about things, but why go out of your way to do something against it like this is really ignorant.

 

No, is not stupid. Engine efficiency is based good gas and clean air. Blow-by gases and oil vapors rerouted into the air intake system diminishes the air quality and gas octanes.
Why not reroute the tailpipe exhaust gases into the air intake...close circuit, no need for snorkel. All want CAI and down the line air is polluted by the EPA and echo mandates to route PCV killer gases back into the engine to be burned. Those engineers are not far from mandating all cars to drive backwards since they will suck in dirty air and exhaust clean air.
Forgot to add: has anybody looked at any police patrol cars and how are designed from the factory for maximum engine efficiency? Where is the pollution elimination there?

 

Glad this question came up. Had no idea these things existed, now I've decided to install one.

 

If that is the case, how many horsepower are you seeing by the installation of the catch can? If what you say is true, surely it has been demonstrated via dyno.

Those oil vapors are not of significant impact to the air quality going into the engine. It's a pretty small part as far as horsepower is concerned. You probably can't even tell it on a dyno.

What's probably better for power is pulling a vacuum on the crankcase and keeping the internal pressure down. They even make pumps to do this for racing applications. Your engine is essentially a pump pulling it's own pressure out.

I bet "air quality" as far as the engine is concerned isn't affected in any real measureable way.

As far as diminishing "gas octanes", If anything, adding a little oil to the gas should increase resistance to spark knock, effectively increasing octane.... so why do you think this is a problem if more octanes are better? It's not.


The only real argument for doing a way with positive crank case ventilation is the long term effect of the oil on the valves and in this engine's case the direct injection. But seriously, these vehicles go for quite awhile without major work. I don't see a reason to screw everything else up for some imaginary power or some idea that the engine won't already last a few hundred thousand miles.

 

Those police patrol cars still meet emissions standards..... besides maximum engine efficiency is a good thing for emissions as well. Most people don't understand that efficiency reduces emissions.

 

This wont effect the OP, because to my knowledge it doesn't get super cold there. But this was something that happened this weekend. My buddies VW golf 2.0T has a billet catch can. It was -15F the other night and the catch can condensation froze, clogging the vent. It was dumping exhaust like crazy then it blew the valve cover gasket, leaking oil all over. That was reason enough for me to not want one.

 

The only reason you see race cars venting their crankcase/ valve cover to atmosphere with those little filters is to relieve the crankcase of pressures from running extremely large amounts of boost that would otherwise blow apart the engine. Your street driven Tacoma will be fine with the system designed by Toyota and does not alter performance of the engine in any way.

 

Using the catch can is better than dumping it, so Id say go for the catch can if he must. As far as engine efficiency, remember the smog pumps in cars from the late 60's and 70's? turns out that particles in that little added waste exhaust acts like a catalyst and increased burning efficiency in the motor - not sure if that is the case here, but burning it or collecting it for proper disposal (I assume its not getting dumped into a gutter) is a good solution, either way the OP decides to go.

Edit: As per my truck? Agree with your points and wouldn't change any of that.

 

For Lycoming engines, the catch can is critical for keeping the belly 'cleanish', unless you just run 2 quarts or so low on the dipstick, which is perfectly fine in my experience. Oh wait, talking cars here....

 

Why Toyota bothered to put a engine oil dipstick on the 3rd gen is a mystery to me... you cannot read the damn thing.

 

**********
Yes!. I can collect that oil and sell it as "engine performance increasing goop" $79 for 1oz.
Soon I will be a trillionaire.

 

I definitely agree if you are going to anyways, a catch can is much better than letting the oil mist build up inside the engine bay.

I've built a few engines for cars that I raced (nothing pure race car though), in the end, I found that a PCV system really was an overall better solution than just running a breather and it really didn't affect anything measureable.

 

I'm sure you could at lease sell enough to pay for the catch can.

 

Can already bought. Waiting for a custom bracket to be made since OCD is demanding perfection. Oil particles get crazy if the can is not supported by a PRO bracket.

 

^^
gonna be good