Oil cooler for boosted 2GR FKS

I understand how it all comes together, my point is being missed.

Back to the oil cooler.

 

It should be interesting to see who will nuke the first engine on extreme boost. My guess is the top ring land will crack

 

I halted development of this cooler until the Magnuson kit is in hand... and that is going to pay off, as it appears that the Magnuson has a similar adapter bracket that relocates the filter housing, likely to clear the belt drive mechanism. There may not be enough room to mount the 1GR filter housing with the kit.... fortunately, I already have a solution worked out. Prototyping will begin shortly. Want to keep those boosted engines running cool? Stay tuned.

 

What the ... engine oil should be less than 250F ideally. Even true synthetic oil have a flash point at less than 500F.

 

Here’s the dope on our engines.

 

As luck will have it, the adapted 1GR bracket with Lexus GS-F oil cooler parts clears almost everything. The only part that could use a little more room is the ear on the rear oil cooler line, it's close to the AC line. The ear will be removed, and the thermostatic adapter should be easy to machine for acceptance of ORB AN lines. Between the lines, coolers, and larger filter, oil capacity will increase roughly 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart. More cool filtered oil, what could be better as we push things higher?

 

Nice work @Jowett! I'm actively trying to figure out an improved oil cooling setup as well since I've already sent a rod and want to prevent it from happening again. I'm curious why the full oil filter housing swap instead of machining a simple AN plate adapter to replace the stock oil-water cooler setup and instead directing oil to a thermostatic switch and stacked plate cooler? (this is what I was planning to do)

How much did this setup end up costing you and how has it performed so far?

 

Thank you! Really though, I’m just applying high quality OEM engineered solutions to a different application.

As for why, so many reasons. The full swap allows easy use of the factory Toyota/Lexus parts that run the two heat exchangers in parallel. The two circuits will not reduce or restrict oil flow… either at 6000 rpm or when things are cold. Keeping an engine oil to coolant warmer/cooler is important for a four season street driven vehicle. I learned this lesson the hard way back in the 90’s when I built a boosted car and removed the warmer/cooler for exactly what you suggest… even with a thermostat, it required far to long to warm the oil, and don’t even need to mention below zero in the winter. Even when warm the thermostat can bypass the oil to air if pressure is too high.

I’ll have about $650 - $700 into the entire system. Almost 1/2 of that is the new 2UR-GSE oil to coolant heat exchanger. It’s a stacked plate copper brazed stainless steel piece… pretty much a lifetime part in this application…. and while I have not seen Toyota’s newer aluminum units fail, I’ve seen plenty fail on other manufacturer’s vehicles.

My build is still ongoing, so I have not yet tested. The system should work great though, as it’s designed for a 467hp 5.0l V8 car that sees the track. If it does have short comings, this style of oil filter bracket (as Toyota calls it) allows for different aftermarket donut style adapters and such from umpteen manufacturers, so it can be corrected.

 

Oh, and if you need better connecting rods https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/connecting-rods-4340-chromoly-2gr-and-2tr.782029/

 

What’s the part number for the heat exchanger you used

 

The heat exchanger is 15700-38040, it includes seals and the giant banjo bolt that holds it and the thermostatic adapter to the filter bracket. The USA dealer price will have your jaw on the floor, I can get them out of Japan for a reasonable price.