Oil Filter on 2016 Tacoma

According to the diagram, looks similar to the 2010-current 4runner canister. Take like 1 1/2 hrs to to the oil change. The canister oil kit is not any cheaper than the regular swapping out filters.

 

yeah, same as the 4runners... probably same part #? I wonder is there are less skid plates and plastic covers to remove than the 4runner?

 

Bump for the guy who didn't want to forum today

 

A couple of questions:
1. I'm getting conflicting advice on the size of the oil filter cap wrench that I need. Autozone chat rep says 32mm, Toyota parts rep says he "thinks it's 64mm". That's a big difference, and a big difference in price!
2. OEM filter, FRAM or Purolator?

 

Can't comment on the size of cap wrench, but stay away from Fram. OEMFTMFW!

 

Right, should be 14 flats and 64mm. At least I hope so, cause that's what I bought.

 

Sure thing! It might be a few days since I had to have it shipped, but this is what I bought:

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sh...h-asstoy640/25981432-P?searchTerm=assenmacher

 

The canister-type filter just takes a bit of getting used to. In addition to the environmental considerations, the unit is much less likely to collapse, due to any production flaws that may be present with screw-on type filters. Tips: (1) Use a small amount of aluminum foil on the inside of the filter wrench. This will help assure a good fit, and with decoupling the the housing from the wrench, and (2) add a short length of plastic tubing to the plastic filter drain insert, so that the oil can be more easily directed to your catch basin. My '13 Lexus ES 350 uses the exact same canister filter setup. Also, there is NO NEED to torque the housing or the filter drain cap excessively. Light torque after after the housing touches the block, plus the expansion caused by the heated engine, are plenty to assure that neither will become dislodged while driving. Finally, don't forget to remove the oil-fill cap and slightly lift (or completely remove) the dip stick, while the oil is draining. This eliminates any vacuum that may slow draining, or cause "spitting" toward the end of the draining process. Caution: The metal-type housing is made of a very low quality material, so with slightly oily hands, it can be easily dropped and cracked.

I hope you find value in this post, as you no likely have from so many of the other highly informative comments you'll find on this forum.

 

Ah, the infamous AssToy-640.

 

They make "specialty funnels" as well:

 

Has anyone found the proper removal tool for the Tacoma on line..? The dealer here wants about $50 for the tool.. crazy

 

I am not sure there is any benefit in changing oil the first 100 miles. The dealer will typically do your first change at 5k or 10 free.

 

Don't forget your 2.7L water pump gasket:

 

Does the element come with an o ring? It is always wise to change the o ring also. Most big truck elements come with one.

 

to each his own, let him spend his money how he wants in peace.

 

All toyota cartridge filters come with housing orings and a drain cock with its own ring

Most pros don't use the drain spout and just remove the cartridge whole and deal with the mess. It's crucial that there's lube on the oring when reinstalling or they will bind and leak. I use the engine oil as a lubricant but many use silicone spray.

I love the 1GR oil change due to easy access and cursed when the FJ and 4runner got the cartridge style to go with the dual VVTi. Now we get to deal with it on all the trucks except the ancient 2.7

 

Do any of you know if the filter comes with a gasket for the oil pan drain bolt?

 

No it does not, but the gasket (washer) should be good for a couple of changes anyway.

 

Great thanks for the quick response.

 

So I was able to get the oil plug out and I inserted the plastic drain "thingy", but hardly any oil came out? Pulled out the dipstick and oil filler cap off, still nothing? Then I started unscrewing the filter housing and I got oil, but not a whole lot more and certainly not 6 quarts. I checked the dipstick and it still registers oil? Why can't I get the oil to drain?? Please advise!