Oil is Completely empty!!

Lets see a picture of the floor where you park.
If you lose 1 qt to a leak it makes a huge mess.
1 qt is equal to 18,927.06 drops.
My guess is yes you have a oil leak but your motor is burning oil also.

 

On a positive note, oil leaks while driving help protect from rust.

 

Like others have mentioned, you need to figure out where the leak is coming from before changing parts out. You could spend a fortune on replacing items to find that they weren't the issue. Clean it up, put down oil back in it, then drive around the block. You'll notice where the leak is coming from. Good luck OP!

 

The pictures in you original post are exactly like what my truck looked like when the timing chain cover started leaking. I never noticed any oil staining where I parked in my driveway. I check my fluids every time I gas up and found my dipstick dry, so I lost almost 3 quarts over a 10 day period. I freaked out a bit as well. I discovered this about 2 months post frame swap and took it back to the Stealer. The quoted me over a $2000 repair. I started doing some research and learned the 1GR-FE engines are prone to this problem. A result of poor machining on the mating surface of the timing cover; there was a TSB issued in 2008. Toyota may have remedied the problem by 2010, if it might be worth looking into. Good luck!

 

I had a pretty good leak on my front seal at only 60k. But it would only leak if I got over like 1500 rpms. Wouldn't leak a drop idling, not a drop sitting. But it would go to running if I revved her up. Replaced the front seal, , no issues since. But now my balancer is wobbling and I gotta replace it. I think the dealer damaged it when they replaced the seal

 

Around the block was not enough to make it leak. Going to a little longer drive here soon.

The more I read posts like this the more I think its the front seal. I am not hoping it's the front seal only and not the rear as well.

 

It is your front main seal. Plain as day to see in your pictures. It is higher than your oil pan. Thus it dripped down to the oil pan.

The "bump the engine" method will be your easiest to remove the crank bolt. Unless you have a good impact gun.

Flat head screw driver will be used to pry the old seal out.

Put grease on the new seal, where it interacts with the crank pulley.

Reinstall. Done.

Hour max, taking your time.

 

Let me add.

Remove the fuel pump relay, then start the engine and let it run until it dies. Then you can safely perform the "bump method."

 

still need something to hold it all while you torque the bolt back to 200 ft lbs

 

I am afraid it's the front and rear seal after driving it. I am going to need to drive it further to really test but I am starting to not like the looks of things...

 

It has to be nitrile compatible grease; most are not. Best to use hi-temp silicone like CRC Silaramic or Super Lube #97008.

 

Both seals going out at the same time shows more support for the theory about a plugged PCV system.
http://www.24hourmobilemechanics.com/pcv-valve-related-symptoms-and-problems/

 

I just pulled the PCV Valve and it rattles so that means it's still good right?

 

Damn

Generally speaking, yes. I would spray it out with some break cleaner or carb cleaner, but the valve is likely good. They are cheap to replace if you feel like it.

 

I did find sludge build up inside my oil cap. Would you have any idea what else could fail on the PVC system?

 

You didn't read the article...it says rattling does not always indicate valve is good. Pull the PCV lines to check if they are plugged.

 

I did read that, I have one on the way and will be here tomorrow. The lines all looked connected and clear.

 

something very similar happened to me a few years ago, problem was the old gasket from the oil filter didn't come off with the filter, so when I put on the new filter it has two gaskets, therefor didn't get a seal and lost a lot of oil pretty quick

 

Yes, frustrating; lets hope it's just a coincidence both seals went out simultaneously.

 

How many Miles on the Engine? (Maybe I missed it).

First I'd Electrically test the Oil Sender to be sure it's working.

Second, I'd drive it for a much while longer just to be sure It's not burning the oil. No Sense chasing a Maybe.

Third - I've heard of a Die you can put in the oil and find the leaks that way.
Here is a link just to show a thread about this ...
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/b...-you-add-oil-help-find-where-its-leaking.html
Not sure if this is valid or not.

How the coolant look, color and level?

Good Luck