Oil light comes on at idle...

yep ^^^ controled internal oil leak.

 

Thanks pulldo! I’ve never broke into an engine. I’ve done a lot on the exterior of the engine, I took off the throttle body to clean it was about the extent of my engine work and you really couldn’t call it that. But to the question, to access the main and rod bearing can you get to them by removing the oil pan? Or is it more intense? I’m sure that’s a stupid question, but had to ask.

 

yes the oil pan has to come down and please do not take any offense, this isnt a job for the weekend warrior. Swaping out bearings can be done there is more to it than that.

 

Typo, right?

 

With that mileage, after the pump replacement, I'd probably go up one viscosity level, especially in hotter weather.

 

IMHO, you still need to put a manual oil pressure gauge on there to verify the idiot light and get a "true" reading of what kind of oil press. you do have. You don't have to leave it on there, just temporary to verify. Who knows it might be adequate to keep going till it dies and it'll save you some money.
Forget the bearing job with that kind of mileage, espeically if you had that much sludge,,, I guess you were using dino oil? Did you change your air filter regular enough to keep the dirt out of the engine... Dino oil, I go to 3000 mile changes, my high mileage stuff was clean internally. But with all that sludge I'd say you have some "iffy" bearings, guessing on my part unless unless you see it.
Time to start saving for a rebuild or a crate engine for later when it craps out if you like the truck, if not make a artificial reef out of it.

 

Pulldo, thanks for the reply. I have gotten a manual oil gauge and going to put it on tomorrow. The truck is running now like it was new! No ticking or anything. Yes, I changed the oil and filter every 5000 miles. I alway use the same oil (Vavoline) and filter. I put 4 quarts in a a quart of Lucus Oil Stabilizer. Maybe it was the Lucus that kept it protected and also slugged it up (any thoughts?). I’m not sure what “dino” is. I’ve got a guy in Atlanta who get Toyota engines in by the crate, they all have from 60,000 to 80,000 miles on them, he is charging $1000 For the engine and $500.00 to drop it in, not bad I think. Anyway, with the way it’s running now I just might get another 50 to 100k off of it. I really appreciate you taking the time to respond along with Glamisman (no offense taken, it’s all good brother) and a few others on the site. Y’all all have given me a ton of GREAT info. Semper Fi!!

 

Dino oil is non synthetic oil,, yeah, it's all good, drive it till it dies, just have plan "B" ready to go. Your right, it might run longer than me, I'll soon be 71 and my oil pressure is a little "low" also.