Oil pan removal with engine in the Truck

My question is...
Can the oil pan on a 1GR FE in a 2006 Tacoma (rear 2 wheel drive, NOT 4x4) be removed with the engine still in the truck ? Is it possible ?

If so, can anyone point me to any thread with more info about doing it ?

If you want some back ground on why I might want to do this check this thread.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/v6-1gr-fe-engine-loud-knocking.444581/

Thanks
Joel

 

You're in luck since your truck is a 2wd. Front differential has to be removed to clear on 4x4 models. You don't have that hunk of metal in the way.

So, yes you can remove the pan - but having checked the other thread, are you sure that's the path you want to take? I think you're better off removing the motor and doing a full teardown/rebuild. Swapping out main bearings from under the truck is actually more of a headache than just pulling the motor out and working on a stand. Take pics of everything, tag/label every connector and it's not so bad. Engine hoist / stand rentals are pretty cheap.

 

Once the lower oil pan (black) is removed, there will be bilts retaining the upper oil pan (aluminum) aside from all of the external bolts. Through the inspection holes of the transmission (between trans and block), there are also two 10 mm bolts which need to be removed as well.

 

Thanks for the replies.
Once i get the oil pan off and the cap off the #5 rod so I can inspect the journal I will decide what to do. If the journal is in decent shape and mics out to round i will just replace the rod bearings with std, not the mains. I agree with TaterHarry that to try to replace the mains from under would be a major pitb. On the flip side if things look bad I'll just bite the bullet and take the engine out and either rebuild the bottom or do a swap. If that ends up being the case i will start another thread about engine removal.
Thanks to all and I'll add an update here.

Joel

 

I’m dealing with this same thing on my truck now. Loud knocking. Got it like this.
But i have the 4x4.
Think but I’m just going to take the motor out.
What did you wind up doin?

 

I need some help with this...

 

So not the lower steel pan but the upper aluminum pan?

 

Yeah, I worked on it a few hours today, cross members, power steering, studs, tensioner... Something was just barely in the way regardless of which corner I was trying to get to come out

 

It's a pain, its been years since I've done the aluminum in the truck.

I believe the rack has to come out, but you can try loosening it off (2 giant 19mm), and disconnecting the shaft to the rack to gain more clearance.

 

I took those 19mm out and even put a ratchet strap on it to pull it forward to try and take advantage of the taper to the front of the pan... But I still need 1/4" of clearance everywhere I tried. I guess I'll disconnect the rack and give that a try

 

I've done a good deal of wrenching on Toyotas, and excluding having to disconnect the engine mounts and jack up the engine on a 2az fe to replace the belt tensioner, because one of the bolts was 1/2" too long to come out without hitting the frame (or they could have put an access hole a socket and extension would have went through...) this project has made me question a few decisions made by the engineering team... Like seriously the rear cross member could have been moved back 1/2"... I kept telling myself not to grab the grinder or zip saw lol

 

I did it to mine before. Put a hoist on the engine. Took off the top nut to both engine mounts. The 17mm nuts. Jacked the engine up as much as possible. Then dropped both pans.

Don't forget about the two 10mm bolts holding the rear main to the upper pan, and the bolts that you can only gain access to once the lower pan is off.

 

I would have missed those two bolts had I not found your post. I pryed on that thing for 20 minutes wondering what the heck kinda rtv had they used lol

 

Probably pays 1.2 hours haha. JK but I bet the book time is low compared to the amount of work it takes.

 

So glad that my post helped you. Sheesh, that'd been a wreck of some parts.

 

About 88% of what I know about the 1gr I owe to you lol, if you ever swing through north Alabama, holler and I'll make you some gravy and biscuits or something

 

mate.

 

Yup... It sucks, but yup. I couldn't easily get to the 17 mm on the engine mount, so I removed the 14mm that connects that to the frame, driver side only and was able to jack up enough and wiggle and pry to get the sucker out (with help from my dad)... And I still can't tell why my engine only spins 178° either direction... So I'm about to swap a diesel into and call it a day

 

I had my pan replaced last fall. I'm told it didn't require removing the engine on my 2010 2.7 RWD