Oil spraying everywhere

Why would a 2010 be more expensive than a 2013 engine?

 

Anyone come up with kit yet? For $3k and dash and sensors work... I can dig up a Tranny and t-case

 

The emissions bullshit!

 

Oh. No shit.

 

Newer 1gr-fe are a dime a dozen. Because there is so many available. Older ones, especially in good shape, low miles, are getting rare. You can't use a newer 1gr-fe in older model trucks. You can... Physically, you can. But it will not run right.

If your 2011 OR less, the best 1GR-FE is from 2007-2009 FJ with VIN starting with J

 

Yes you can, just need the ECU, engine room harness and emissions equipment with it

 

Rrrrrr, you sir are correct I didn't want to get into that, most people don't care that much

Good catch!!!!

 

Not much more work if swapping the damn motor already

 

To me and you.... No. To 95% of the folks here, yes. Plus, if you have to actually pay, like a normal person to buy parts, they rape you on ECU and incidentals. That adds up. Hence, I didn't suggest it.

In that note...

OP, if you find a donar truck, buy it all!!!! Engine, trans, t-case, axles, harness, ecu, etc.

You be surprised, a person ask $2500 for an engine, will QUICKLY sell the whole driveline plus..... For about $3500-$4000 cash in hand

 

Lol, in my truck right Now, guy was asking $2400 for just 1g1GR-FE. Took about a week back and fourth, in the end, got the engine, trans, manual t-case he pulled out of his FJ when he upgraded for $2800 cash.

 

Was about to go to bed, but this has me perplexed, so headed out back to the shop.

For some perspective, here are some pics.

First Pic is of an average timing cover for 100k mile 1GR-FE. in comparison, OP's looks like it hasn't been taken care of.

Second pic is showing an inside view of timing cover and harmonic balanced.

Third pic shows that the separation between the inner and outer is at about roughly 2" on center. Even after separation, I don't see how those gashes happened.

I know this doesn't make sense, but looking at the poor shape of the gasket and damage, almost looks like the crank moved???

 

I smell fish. This doesn't add up.

I don't see how the harmonic balance wheel did this it is too close to the seal IMO. Not trying to say that this did happen, but it looks like while attempting to remove the seal with a screwdriver and hammer they missed the mark and popped the old aluminum.

 

Or maybe trying to pry the balancer off with a prybar?


Idk... just guessing...

-Bear

 

Maybe a piece of gravel somehow got behind the balancer... wedged in... when the engine was cranked, it grabbed on the back of the balancer and was pushed through the cover?

Just spitballing ideas...

-Bear

 

That hole looks like it was punched inward.

 

@HillBillyRedNeck , put the crank bolt back in and spin the engine. Does it spin quietly?

If so, it isn't a timing chain problem.

 

The lack of emissions BS on a pre-2012 makes them more expensive?

 

It almost looks like there's a couple tool marks at the bottom right portion of the hole. And also what looks like a scratch at the center/bottom left as well.

Not saying that happened either, but if a downward (inward) force was applied on the cover at the bottom of the hole, it would pop that part down (in) and the top part up (out). The crack pattern on the hole would match those forces.

I'm certainly no expert and would need input from OP. It is very curious indeed.

 

I think a rock got wedged in between the balancer and the timing cover. I don't think I'm going to swap it, I'm going to buy a new cover and do the timing chain at the same time. My pickup has been sitting for the last two years while i was stationed in Virginia. I just got out and moved back home and started driving it again. I removed the balancer by putting a breaker bar on it then using the starter to break it loose, then it just wiggled right off the shaft.