Oil spraying everywhere

Or maybe not.......... someone hooning it?

We've seen a few cases of that around here with wayward family members and such.

 

That would be a huge kick in the dick.

 

there is no difference in a shortblock pre/post 2012 plain n simple.

 

This.

 

I'm just going to take it in and have it welded, and i will do all the timing stuff while i'm in there, do you guys recommend a site to buy an oem kit?

 

What is wrong with the timing stuff?

 

Im just going to change the timing chains and stuff while i already have the timing cover off

 

Wiggled right off? That's a first. At least you had some good luck

 

I think you are missing the point, but I totally get you.

Most people do an engine swap in these trucks out of necessity!

Something bad happened. They need their truck back and want the most solid least expensive, best fix.

You COULD, in theory, I guess, order a new 1GR-FE short block, strip a pre 2012, reassemble, reinstall...

OR

Buy a post 2012 engine, strip it, check it out, retro fit, re-install

Or

Buy a post 2012, install new ECU, sensors, harness, etc

Or

Just don't be a dumb ass, are smart ass, which ever you prefer to be called.

I change major parts all the time, lol, I'll be the first to admit, I've wasted money on stupid stuff on the truck just to see what would happen like buying 5100'S just to what it took to bust them, I've swapped engines, etc...


Trust me, it ain't worth the time and money to retrofit a post 2012. Cheaper to just invest in a J-VIN.

OR, if your on a budget, find the right replacement engine.





Etc...

 

Literally the only difference between pre 2012 and 2012+ are the headers (exhaust manifolds) and passenger side valve cover (which just have extra mounting tabs for the SAI valves).

Do you put a motor in with the headers (exhaust manifolds) on? Likely not, so wtf is the problem here?

Also, you could easily get some SAI block off plates for the 2012+ headers and literally use the entire long block 2012+ motor without a single issue.

But hey what do I know, im just a dumb smart ass according to you....

 

Manifolds and headers are two different things....

 

What?

 

.... now we are splitting hairs. Manifolds / headers collect exhaust from each cylinder and collect them into one pipe.


Exhaust Manifolds are typically a single runner setup. Headers are individual pipes that mate at a collector, each do the same function. Jezus christ people. You and everyone else here know exactly what im talking about in my post above

 

Yea, 2nd gens too. At least that’s the easier way.

@jboudreaux1965 what’s so special about the J-VIN engines from FJ Cruiser? I would think 4Runner motors are better because made in Japan?? Not sure...

 

Splitting hairs and stirring pots. Two of my favorite internet pastimes.

 

Likely a waste of time and money and plenty to go wrong. Just change water pump and call it good. Unless there’s something wrong or you notice the tensioner extended very far I wouldn’t swap the chain.

 

X2 my main seal went I think I had less than 30 grand on the odometer was covered under warranty

 

If youre having a hard time finding a timing cover you might be able to patch that one up. Probably want to take it off and clean it really good so you can get a good mating surface for epoxy or whatever. if you glopped it on both inside/outside it would probably seal up ok.

 

I would add that I reused my timing chain when I changed head gaskets with 225,000 miles. There was nothing wrong with it. If its not broken dont fix it.
I have read on this forum of some engines have gone 500,000 miles on original timing chains.
check tensioner as recomended above and make sure its not at the end of its travel

could that hole been made by the oil pump losing a tooth?

or an extra long bolt threaded on the balancer to pull it off?