Oil Type and Brands?

Use an OEM filter, imo. Or Wix makes excellent filters. Made in Gastonia, NC, USA.

Back in the day when I ran a high compression race motor, I cut open all of the filters I could find. Wix was the best.

 

Who makes those?

Hint. Certainly not Toyota.

Low bidder?

Not saying they are bad. Just that they aren't as exclusive as many seem to think. It's just another rebranded product.

 

With a grain of salt, but here:

https://parts.olathetoyota.com/blog/1654/oil-filter-comparison-best-filters

The interwebs says Denso makes most of the Toyota filters.

 

As someone who uses M1 (not because I have some specific hard on for it, but because like many people I tend to pick a brand and stick with it), I’d like to know more. Mileage? How do you know the owner used M1 exclusively? How do you know the oil was changed on interval properly? I always take these small sample size anecdotes with a whole shaker of salt, so don’t take my skepticism personally.

 

Use Amsoil Signature Series and your truck will go for many miles!

 

I always use Wix, Napa Gold, Baldwin, Hastings or OEM oil filter.

 

Haha! Already usin' those bad boys.
Thanks for the reply.

 

Ah, post-whore got jokes. Whatever.

 

Will I get 32mpg + HP/TQ if I go to Ferrari dealership parts department and buy their oil to put in my Tacoma?

How much cost per jug?

 

Name calling is a grade school fall back position.

What evidence do you have that your 'look analysis' is accurate enough to know your oil is in need of changing?

Empirical evidence, not anecdotal.

 

They sell bulk packs of OEM filters for dirt cheap on Amazon or at the local dealer. Like less than 4 bucks a piece and they're quality filters. I'm running WIX XP right now just because I had one left over for my last truck (totaled by falling tree). WIX is a great filter but they're pricey. I run Mobil 1 "full synthetic" (whatever that means since I've read synthetics are just highly refined regular oil). I've used amazon oil in the past. I've watched literally every video out there on best synthetic oils (yes even project farm) and I've found that the additives in the Mobil 1 are a little cleaner and more balanced than most out there. I don't mind spending 27 (vs 22-25 for amazon) bucks or so for oil since it lasts for a while and it's a trusted brand. With that being said, the frequency I change my oil, it doesn't matter as much as long as I'm using a decent oil (which most are by law). Changing often is more important than the brand you use. I always change filter, oil, and pan gasket every 3,000. I run synthetic for the better properties it has and is just generally expected to perform better. For a few bucks more, it's almost a dumb thing not to use it.

 

M1 is hydrocracked basestock group 3
PAO and ester is group 4/5
not that it matters

M1 is often on rebate $23walmart + sales tax - $12/5qtJug rebate = approx $12 per large jug final price

 

I would challenge you to try Amsoil 5W30 Signature and see if that doesn't quiet your lifters. My uncle had a Tundra that he switched to Amsoil and it immediately quieted that engine.

 

I own(ed) all of them, do my own oil changes.
93 Taurus SHO purchased with about 30K and sold with about 140K. Wix filters. Valve covers were pulled several times to shim the lifters. Never liked what I saw but didn't know any better. Oil pan had a thick varnish that wouldn't come off when I changed the gasket.
'00 Dodge Ram I purchased new had 190K when I traded it on the Tacoma. Wix filters. Blackstone oil tests always came back saying the oil was exceptionally dirty, like it had been run with out an air filter (K&N, didn't know any better). Valve covers and lifter valleys were pretty yuck.
5.0 pushrod Mustang (89 Engine), mileage unknown but maybe 60K after I put the 7 quart Canton oil pan on it and made it mine, cleaned out the oil pan and replaced the valve covers last year. Wix or Motorcraft filters. Cleaning the pan was a seriously nasty job. The only sludge I've seen worse was my 53 Cadillac which had what looked like a lifetime of Havoline stickers on the door frame.

The '77 2.3l Pinto purchase with about 30K and sold with 140K is what I started with, and ran hard (Erson cam, Offy intake, Holley 4 barrel, headers, ...), never looked as bad as any of those and most of the time it didn't have an air filter on it. Pennzoil exclusively and typically Motorcraft filters.

Wife's '09 Forester made just shy of 80K (purchase with less than 5K) when it developed a rod knock, thankfully $100 deductible warranty until 80K. Mobil 1 oil and filters. Didn't see the inside of that one, but the results speak for them selves.

Maybe a small sample size, and I'm not saying Mobil 1 is in fact junk, but I've seen enough. To each there own, just sharing my experiences.

Back in the day oil changes were at 3000, you could still see through it. At 5000 it's black, enough evidence for me that 5K is too long.

 

I'll look into it, thanks for the suggestion.

 

This is the first time on TW, in my experience, that someone has put up an anecdotal critique of an oil that was so solid. I assumed you were a mechanic who’d seen this on vehicles you worked on as opposed to owning them yourself. Typically the anecdotals are from mechanics and not owners, because only the mechanics have seen the necessary volume to have formed an opinion, but even then they can’t speak to the vehicle’s history.

All I can say is wow, and wonder if any of the resident engineers and automotive experts have any illuminating comments.

Edit: forgot to ask, how much of the oil was synthetic?

 

TacomaWorld is infamous for high post count keyboard warriors with smart ass comments, I'm sure several of them work to debunk my experiences. Really don't know why I bother posting, guess I get weak on occasion.

Except the Pinto and Cadillac, they all ran Mobile1 Full Synthetic exclusively.

 

M1 has a reputation for causing varnish leaving the engine discolored yellow inside

If Motul is $40 and Mobil is $12
Why do you think people choose it?

 

Do any of you worry about counterfeit Toyota parts when ordering online? There are numerous videos on YouTube showing the difference and it's on all kinds of parts.. spark plugs, filters, etc.

I like the YZZD3 filters but I think I'm going to start buying them through parts.toyota.com and do local pickup at my local dealership which seems to run a 30% off deal when buying that way.

 

For what it's worth, you can have your oil tested by Blackstone or Wix(?) and they can give you an idea of what the internal wear metals look like inside your motor.

Obviously this doesn't tell you what type oil the previous owner used but it can give you an idea of the health of the motor's internals. On top of this, the used oil analysis can tell you if you can run an extended oil change interval.

For example, my last Blackstone report recommended I extend my OCI to 7,500 miles, so it might be worth something to you friendo