ok need to ask?

LOL, guess I did not make it that far through this thread. I guess English may be there 2nd language or simply wants us to lie to them

 

Or, toyota3.5hasnoballs.com cause, you know I am running have 44's with a 2.7l

 

OP, whenever you make the inevitable trip to home depot, the Diablo Carbide sawzall blades last the longest. I cut apart my ubolts and main eye bolts with just 2 of them. Have fun slicing up the fenders on something your probably still making payments on.

 

Does anyone else think this is just a member who made a second profile to screw with us? Ya know, for shits and giggles?

 

yeah yeah ...keep trolling and talking smack...

 

In all seriousness, you were given direct answers to your question but seemed like you didn't want to listen. All the commentary beyond that is in good fun. Hope you take the advice given and do it correctly the first time.

 

The Lenox carbide ones are pretty great too, I cut off my front LCA cam bolts and my rear U bolts with just one of them. Just some slight chipping off the carbide on about 4 teeth. I hope I never have to use it again though lol

 

So I’m doing a lift with foxnshocks, new springs, UCAs and leafs. Only doing 2-2.5, from there the tires I have are ko2 285/70/17 with the SEMA 17 rims. From what I have been told once you go above 2.5 you will have more issues and need more parts to deal with the new angles. So I wanted to stay below that. Also from what I have seen and been told no Tacoma is the same. With proper alignment you should with that setup be able to do the 285 with out a chop. At least this is what I have seen and the local AZ shop confirms that with their own installs and alignment. That said there are a lot of people who say this isn’t possible, but I will find out I guess since I off-road at least every week to every other week. Stock off-road tires are 265-70-16 and to my understanding where to agreed upon no issues ends is there to 285-75-16. That said it will all depend and the only way you will know for sure is trying it out and talking to local shops. I know a guy told me it would not work for the 285-70-17 because he did it and it rubbed like crazy. He also didn’t have a lift, new rims, or even a alignment. So talk to a shop that knows their stuff. I would suggest you start with @Tretiak30 and let him help you out as he helped me navigate all the info and get a proper lift for my use of the truck and tires I wanted. He set me up with a awesome price on new shocks and what lbsfor springs etc..

 

A WHOLE INCH!!!

 

Thx u for the info

 

In for the pics. OP, when do you plan to do the install?

 

I like a lot of rubbing. As an expert tribologist.

 

As someone in Wisconsin...gotta be prepared for those ATL blizzards dude, it occasionally even gets below freezing there.

Sub'd for the build thread, lots of potential here.

 

From my understanding with the proper upper control arms, and wheels with a0 to +10 offset rim or a 10mm+ spacer you can fit a 285/70/16 mudflaps may rub, and depending on tire sidewall design it may still rub at full lock, and/or full stuff... with no suspension mods whatsoever you can get a 255/85/16 to fit, possible rubbing on mud flaps, and maybe the upper inner fender liner...

285/70/16 - wider heavier tire... (32X11.2" TIRE)
requires at a minimum:
*UCA
*lift of 2"
*fender cutting/mud flap removal
*and depending on tire design, and size (they all differ a bit) it will require a BMC/CMC.
*depending on tire/wheel weight gearing is almost a necessity to spin the heavier tires.

PROS: these tires are good for flotation on mud, and sand. trick is to air them down for larger contact patch.

255/85/16 - taller skinny tire (AKA pizza cutters) (33"X10" TIRE) skinnier than stock, but allow for better traction by putting more weight per inch squared. they weigh less than the above, and can be found cheaper than the 285/70/16's
*will fit on stock rim as they are a 10"wide tire
*lift is recommended 2"
*mud flap removal (stock ones tend to get ripped off)
*re-gearing is optional, really depends on the type of wheeling you do, and if you can handle the power loss.

PROS: especially useful in snow, and rocks. but also perform well in mud. fuel mileage is affected, and power loss is minimized, but re-gearing is still suggested.

honestly most of this is personal opinion, but is derived from what i have learned here, and from doing my own research.

My plan (in order):

* https://www.southernstyleoffroad.co...-hybrid-front-bumper-customize-your-own-copy/ WITH A SMITYBUILT 10K WINCH W/ SYNTHETIC LINE

* RCI skid plates (full)

* sliders thinking bolt on, but unsure which manufacturer I want to go with.. looking for one made with DOM, and strength/reviews..

* https://www.headstrongoffroad.com/store/p474/Performance_Bilstein_Kit_with_OME_Dakar_Leaf_Pack_(HS16BK-3).html 2" lift

*

$338+ Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx Tires

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Cooper&tireModel=Discoverer+S/T+Maxx&partnum=585QR6DSTM&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes cooper ST MAXX 255/85/16

I already have a 1.25" spacers on my stock OR wheels, but may remove them COMPLETELY when i get the lift, and tires done..

 

subd

 

Given modern manufacturing capabilities I find this hard to believe...I’d say peoples definition of it fits is more the reason someone would believe “no Tacoma is the same” as opposed to a company cranking out half a million trucks a year with with everyone having varying degrees of tolerances in the build...especially on frame and suspension.

 

Kinda like the guys who think the pros get extra attention at the factory and special engines etc.

Let’s face it. The Tacoma is a widget. They will vary from each other, as all manufactured items do, but the similarities outway the differences 100000:1, including tire fitment.

 

I thin that when you take a truck with 25k miles that is often a off-roader and a street truck at 500 miles they are not the same so when I saw they are not the same I mean that the two guys going for the same build in separate states that off done different type of driving are going to get different results. Beyond that people who don’t get new alignments and people who do will find different bolt on differences. I have been told by a guy that my exact build does not work. Yet here we are working. Not a different definition but he didn’t get a alignment. Same trucks with modern manufacturing, just I did the logical thing and he didn’t , yet he says it doesn’t fit and advises others it won’t.

 

Thx u