Ok. So Here We Go...

Sorry I haven't posted in a few days, I've been busting it trying to get everything ready for the complete driver's side install and we're ALMOST there. The passenger's side I'm thinking should be substantially less time because I already have everything 70% taken apart (steering rack) and the front painted so all I'm left do now is to pull brakes off, pull axle out, pull LCA, clean up the passenger's side frame, paint, and re-assemble (cliff notes).

I got all the parts I needed in. I'm just going through the finishing stages before I get it all put in and completed (most of driver's side...)

I didn't do a write up on pulling the LCA bushings- there are some out there, but MAN was that a job... Holy crap, getting those the washers separated and put back together was a whip, and I still have another side to do... I have researched another method on how to do this by grinding down the metal crimp on the inside of the washer, so I'm going to try that and see how it goes.

Here are some pics of where I'm at:

Got the wheel where the rotors attach and the dust plate cleaned up and mostly rust free:





Sway Bar Brackets wheeled/sanded/alcohol bathed/painted



LCA done:



Steering rack bracket complete:



Bushings cleaned, pressed, fully assembled, greased and ready to be pressed back into the LCA.



Truck bed liner complete on frame bar at the front of the truck behind the grill



Truck bed coating at front (more pics)




Bed Liner Painting- More Pics


Cleaned Bushing Sleeves:



More Pics



Sway Bar Bedlinen and Painted (I had red paint on hand)



You can see the texture on the Sway Bar



Sway Bar more pics



Bushing Replacement:



Here is what I think I'm going to do tonight:

-Paint Rotors (Hi-Temp Brake Paint)
-Clean/Sand/Paint cap that goes onto bearing assembly
-Remove Outer Tie Rods (both sides)
-Clean/Re-Grease Inner Tie Rods (it's still good)
-Replace Steering Rack Bellows (both sides)
-Replace outer tie rods (both sides)
-Press bushings into LCA
-Install Complete LCA
-Install CV axle (driver's side)
-Attach shock to LCA
-Attach Sway Bar End Link to LCA
-Install Lower Ball Joint
-Clean Passenger Frame

I'm hoping to get all that done tonight, but we'll see how it goes. I'm hoping it goes as quick as I hope it does, but it never does, so we'll see what happens.

Tomorrow:

-Prep/Paint Passenger's Side Frame
-Complete Tundra Brake Upgrade Installation
-Complete SS Brake Line Install
-Attach bearing assembly cap

Saturday:

-Pull Brakes/Rotors
-Pull Lower Ball Joint
-Pull LCAs
-Press LCA Bushings Out
-Prep/Paint LCA
-Burn Rubber Bushing out of LCA and replace with ES
-Clean Passenger Wheel/Bearing Assembly

Sunday:

-Install LCA
-Pull/Replace CV Axle
-Install Steering Rack
-Install Shock
-Install Sway Bar End Link
-Install Lower Ball Joint
-Complete Tundra Brake Upgrade
-Complete SS Brake Line Upgrade

Monday:
-Snorkel Install
-Bleed Brakes

Tuesday:
-Alignment

That's the plan... Tonight is going to be a long one...

 

We're almost done with the suspension replacement- both sides. Almost done with this job, and I'm glad it's coming to an end, and I'll know that everything on the front is new. I even got a "celebratory cigar" when this is done. The only two things that haven't been completely replaces is: steering knuckle, and wheel bearing assembly. Everything else is new, has full prep and paint, coated, replaced, or mod'ed.

Hardest job of this entire replacement- LCA bushing replacement. Getting the bushings out, separating a washer from the sleeve, blow torching the old bushing off, replacing the bushing, getting washer back on to where it fits, and then pressing the washer back onto the sleeve. That job is/was a whip. I didn't take many pictures or do a write-up on it because there weren't a whole lot of comments, questions, or requests about it, so I didn't end up doing a whole lot with that. I can certainly talk about it, and tell any of you how to do it, I just don't have any pics of the process.

**TIPS**
-TIP 1: If/When you're going to replace the LCA bushings make sure you have a full can of propane before you start torching, you have to get ALL of that rubber off and it takes a lot of flame to make that happen. A full can should be good for both sides.
-TIP 2: When you're heating the bushing and pressing it with the jack, do it on the ground and make sure the end of the bushing is facing a direction that has a good backstop. This will help make sure you don't put a hole in your ceiling. I initially started it and had the LCA in a vise, but learned quick that those things can come out with a LOT of force.
-TIP 3: Make sure you take a Dremel with a good grinding stone and grind down the crimp on the sleeve before trying to get the washer off. This will help tremendously with getting the washer separated from the sleeve.

Here are some pics of the job:

This is what it looks like "almost" complete:


Complete LCA with new ES bushings- had full paint prep and painted as well:


Masking, Priming and Painting Rotors:


Priming comparison:


Power Stop 13WL (Tundra Brake Upgrade) Powder Coated Red:


Finished Painting Rotor:


Better "Day Time" shot:


New CV Axle Install:


Power Stop Brake Kit and "Old" (had them replaced in September but didn't like them) brakes:


Driver's Side Rotor Installed With Coating:


Close Up of Rotor:


"Old" Caliper and Rotor:


Caliper/Rotor/SS Brake Line Installed:


Passenger's Caliper/Rotor/SS Brake Line Installed, and if you look close you can see my red sway bar complete with red ES bushings.


One more time so you don't have to scroll all the way back up to the top:


***TIP*** One thing that tripped me up (it was like 3:30 in the morning) when I was installing it- was the sway bar. When you are taking the sway bar off, it's important to make a note of where the bolts are located on the brackets, and which side the mounting brackets go on. Also, make a note to yourself on the ends which side is what, because it stumped for a little while until I decided to rotate it 180 degrees. I still can't figure it out in my own head how that happens or how that worked, but it worked. So, learn from my mistake and mark your mounting brackets with a silver sharpie: which bracket goes on what side, which part of the bracket is top and bottom (the bolts are off-set), and which end of the sway bar goes on what side. When you're laying on your back under the truck and can't figure out how all that goes, save yourself in the beginning by making a note of all those things.

Here is what is left:

-Install castle nuts and cotter pins on LBJ, Outer Tie Rod, and CV Axle (torquing to spec)
-Torque ALL bolts to factory spec, and double check torque settings one more time. Some of them are done, but I need to go over them again to make sure they are right, because some were done when I was REALLY tired.
-Install axle dust caps
-Install Snorkel
-Bleed Brakes and Replace Brake Fluid with Lucas Oil Full Synthetic DOT 3
-Put Tires/Wheels Back On
-Get an Alignment

I'll have all of this done tonight and get an alignment first thing tomorrow morning.

 

This is great, I love that you are taking the time to paint and restore your truck the right way. I wish I had the patience to do that with mine haha.

I especially appreciate the write-up on the body mounts, I'm planning to replace mine this week and your walkthrough should be really helpful.

That same Powerstop brake kit is on a FedEx truck heading my way too! Can't wait to hear how your truck drives (and stops) after you get it all back together.

 

I've had Power Stop brakes in the past, and they've been great. Upgrading to the Tundra (13WL Casting) I'm hoping will help get thing stopped on a dime. If you don't have them already, you might want to think about wheel spacers. I was getting everything buttoned up last night when I realized there is a problem... The passenger side fit (BARELY fit) and the drivers side doesn't fit. I'm still not completely sure how that happened. I took the caliper off, got the whole thing re-installed and it still didn't fit. I haven't been able to figure it out, but I'm to solve this problem, I'm getting spacers now. Also, it will help to keep from rubbing against the frame at full lock.

I'm saying that because you might want to prepare yourself if that happens.

Man. Doing what I did is a TON of work. I mean a LOT of work.

 

Absolutely amazing job! Look forward to seeing end result. Nice work!

 

Thank you! I just have to get the spacers installed, fender installed, and replace the banjo screws on the SS brake lines and we'll be done!

 

Oh man, I was feeling overwhelmed just READING about all the work you've done. Bravo to you for actually getting it done.

Sorry to hear about your caliper situation. I got my brake kit in but I haven't gotten to install it yet, just upgraded to 16" wheels today. FN Wheels advertises that they are compatible wit the 13WL upgrade but I will definitely have to test fit calipers before I hook up the lines and everything. If they bind like yours I may just have to grind them down because I got wheels with a very aggressive offset so I wouldn't have to run spacers lol.

 

Got the truck put back together, got the brakes bled, got everything working, went to get an alignment and everything was put into tolerance and we had ONE major problem....

Driver's side caliper is leaking- in the caliper...

I called Summit Racing on Saturday afternoon and they are sending me 2 x brand new calipers. Still sucks though. Not hard to do, not hard to install, but still have to do it.

Here is what it looks like:




Yes, all that stuff around the tire is brake fluid. The tech and I looked at everything, but that's not gonna work. Frustrating part is I completely flushed the brake system doing the bleed and replace with Lucas Oil Full Synthetic DOT 3 brake fluid and I'll have to go get some more and get this thing fixed.

Almost done with the front end.

I'm going to wheel, sand, prep and spray the skid plates tonight and hopefully get that done as well.

In the meantime, I'll be getting the two main beams cleaned up on both sides of the truck to get them wheeled, sanded, prepped for truck bed liner.

I was looking under the bed and it really looks like I need to replace some brake lines as they are getting worn, but I think I'll get the filter and pump changed out when I get that done. Also when looking under there, I saw the support beam that supports the truck bed (sideways) is a little rusty and beat up, so I'll need to get the truck bed off and get that prepped/sanded/bed lined here soon.

I'll give it a little time, but that's what is to come.

Pics to follow later.

 

Honestly, that issue with the brakes (just posted) could have been due to the seal not sitting right. It was a little too close for comfort and I'm glad I went with the wheel spacers, no complaints yet, but I've only driven about 10 miles on the thing... I have to fix the driver's side caliper, get another alignment done (because I want to and it's free) then I'll be rolling. There really isn't any way to tell that until you put the brake fluid in, bleed the brakes, and then go for a test drive. Make sure you check the calipers after you drive it for a little bit and then make sure the inside of your tire isn't covered in brake fluid- like mine was.

 

Ima need an alignment after i do all my suspension work also. Where do you take your truck to get aligned here in Houston? Did you get a lifetime deal?

 

Hey man, what part of town are you in/on? I'm on the North side, just south of Tomball. Yeah, I think I got the 3 or 5 year "unlimited, anytime" is what they call it.

I got to NTB off Spring Cypress/249. I have a guy named Josh do it. He's the one that does it for me because some of the guys are like "I don't want to touch the aftermarket suspension but I'll do my best." I handed him some directions on how to adjust camber with the UCAs and he knocked it out. Some of the techs don't want to touch it, but he did, and was real cool about about it. I just call and make sure he's going to be there and schedule an appointment with them/him and do it. I pretty much do it once a every few months because... wheeling...

 

I live intown near IKEA, but i go up north to CypressCreek trails by the YMCA a few times a month to ride my mountain bike. Im about to order the full OME kit from RockyRoad.com. they gave me a pretty good quote.

 

Dude. You pass my house when you go to the trails, like drive right by it. The trail is literally at the end of our street. They just did the new Kickarillo park (with the big lakes) on the other side of the highway, but you can walk to the Y from our house. 3rd house on the right when you get to the road (in the older subdivision) where the trail is. Stop by and say hi if/when you see us outside!

 

What! Thats crazy, I think ive seen your truck then. I always saw a first gen parked out front of one of house near cypresswood. Small world. Ill def stop by and check out your truck if you are out there. thanks for the invite. I might need some tips when I start my install if you don't mind helping. I always keep either Karbach, St Arnolds or southern star stocked up and cigars in the humidor.

 

Yeah, my wife drives a Lunar Mist 4Runner too (3rd Gen). I usually keep the truck closest to the garage because the "off-road Accord" gets most of my daily miles driving all over to my 3 offices around Houston! My neighbor down the street (never met him... haha) has a DC 4x4 TRD Lunar Mist as well- totally stock. I always want to stop him and ask him how many miles he has on it.

My wife and I don't drink, but I'll definitely smoke a cigar now and then. Seriously, stop by and say hi, then we can look at what you're going to do and I'll definitely give you some tips. As you can see, I've totally replaced the front end myself, so I am actually pretty educated about it... Haha.

What Gen/Color/Type do you drive?

 

By the way- before you order the OME kit, ask them if they can install the coils for you with the top hat (and spacer if you want it) which will save you a lot of time/energy/effort. It'll be just plug and play then, and you won't have to worry about having a worn out top-hat or anything like that. Just unbolt the stock out of the strut mount, put the new one in.

It'll be a little extra $$$, but well worth it in my opinion.

 

Thanks for the tip. I drive an 04 sr5 DC 4x4.

 

Haha. I've definitely seen your truck. It's hard to miss "cool" 1st Gens. My wife always comments on DC's, and with the topper and the rack, I've definitely said something about it. Small World. When you make that right off Cypresswood, we're the 3rd house on your right- big 1 story and lots of trees. Neighbor drives a black Jeep. You'll see the top of my 1st Gen in the back of the driveway- if I'm not driving it...

By the way- how many miles are on your truck? Just curious. Also, if you're going to be installing that other stuff, you might need/want, but you might want to think about LCA bushings, Body Mount Bushings, and UCAs. I have the ones from Lite Racing...

Looks like my brake calipers will be in on Wed or Thurs so I'm HOPING to be driving it on Friday after another alignment...

 

I just hit 148k miles. Ive thought about changing the bushings too. Where did you buy yours?

 

Energy Suspension Bushings- Summit Racing. I got the "master kit". You'll notice a difference and it's not that hard to do. You can get it all done in a few hours if you don't paint the mounting brackets like I did...