Ok. So Here We Go...

When I did my bushings almost two years ago we left the outer sleeves in and just removed the rubber. Since the outer sleeves are still used I thought not to take them out. Also for anyone else doing this, only remove one of the washers on the inner sleeve, removing both is more of a PITA

I used a drill and a few 1" wire wheels to remove some of the rubber and clean out the little remainder.

 

that truck is gonna be brand new by the time your done, Bravo man, looks awesome!

 

I did only remove the "smaller" washer. Used a dremel and grinded the inner sleeve a little bit, then took a pitman arm puller with an impact gun and worked it off the rest of the way in small increments. Popped off. Warning though- if you use a pitman arm puller, make sure you rotate it around the washer so it comes off evenly. I then just used the sleeves from a press kit and flattened it back out.

 

Thank you! I appreciate that. I think I'm going to get started cleaning/prepping/sanding the main beams so I can get some truck bed liner on those as well and then I'll be about 60% done before I tackle rear, and remove the bed.

I didn't do the transmission mount because that's in GREAT shape and is really in great shape. Believe it or not, my frame still has most of the factory "stickers" on it.

 

Luckyyyyyyyy if my old 1st gen was as clean at that i might have kept it. But I had rust and it was time to move on

 

Yeah, we're really fortunate down here in TX to be able to keep these trucks alive as it just doesn't snow in Houston. I think after all this it will probably be ready for a road salt winter! I've owned a 2nd Gen, and I think 1st Gens might just be my favorite...

 

Idk it's hard to chose. There are things I like about both first gen and second gen.

 

Aside from being "new", there were pros and cons I agree. The thing I like about 1st Gens- I feel like I'm capable with all the help on here, of doing a LOT of this stuff myself. I also really like the size of the 1st Gens, as they are a more "compact" feel and don't have the "big truck" feel. I really, really like the truck I have and I'm hoping one day I can just give it to my son and buy one of the $20K ones with 60K original miles!

 

yea and also the parts seem to be a little cheaper for the first gens

 

While I'm waiting on the caliper, I figured I'd go ahead and get the truck bed liner on the skid plate, so I got that done last night. I sanded out ALL of the surface rust and got it smooth and clean.

 

ooooooooo
does the bed liner need a primer to go under it? im thinking of redoing my front skid because i sanded it and primed/painted it but the paint chips easy....thinking of maybe doing the bed liner

 

Short answer- no. If you're paint is chipping, I think it might be the paint you are using. My preference for any paint like this is: Rustoleum Chassis and Roll Bar Paint. It drys really hard, has a great color, and I've had good luck with it.

I used it on my rear "baja" bumper and it's held up great- I tow a boat every weekend during duck season and have had no issues at all. The can says it doesn't need a primer, but I used Duplicolor primer (HVLP spray gun) and then gave a couple coat top coat with the Chassis and Roll Bar Paint and it's been great.

If you're already primed/painted it then I would probably sand the top coat off and go with the bed liner. The only thing is- the can says it needs 72 hours to fully "cure." I pretty much stick to those types of recommendations on stuff like that and really try to make sure to follow the directions. Get a couple of cans because sometimes the spray nozzle "sticks" and I don't have the patience to sit there and mess with it, so I just throw it away and write it off and go to the next can. I've only had this happen a few times, but it has happened.

**EDIT** I didn't use any type of primer at all on the truck bed liner for my skid plates. I sanded the crap out of it, cleaned it with alcohol (spray bottle with alcohol in it) and just sprayed it on there. That's exactly what I did on the frame in the front suspension and it dries HARD. You shouldn't have any issues.

 

good advise, thanks
i think the last black pain i used was rustoleum but idk if let it cure properly

 

Remember- a few light coats (5-7 min between coats) and then a good "final" coat. I do this exact same thing using the bed liner because it has a tendency to come out fast and run. Remember, it's ALWAYS easier to add more, but it's super hard to get the excess off and make it look good.

Hold the can further away from what you're trying to paint so you can spread it out (you'll have more overspray than what you're used to), keep the can moving, and get the light coats on.

Do it once and do it right.

Remember, you're trying to build the coat on there, not put it all on at 1 time...

 

i have a hard time doing the light coats because i always think "man that spot looks like it needs another light pass" so ill put another light spray wherever it looks like i missed. i think i put on like 4 light coats and 2 thicker coats last time. maybe next time ill put like 6 light coats and one top coat.
i try to hold the can the recommended length away. i think its 8-12" or so, but then i always ended holding it closer. i think i rush to do things just to get to the end result and be done with it. i can be impatient sometimes

 

Hold the can out a little further than that, like 16-17 inches and keep the can moving. It's honestly better to be patient now when you're doing this than it is to have to totally re-do it later...

 

Here are the skid plates complete:



Just need to get these bad boys back on now.

 

Adding to body mount installation per my experience so far.... still have one side to go....

- I detached the, what ES refers to as "L bracket", front bumper arm. It was easy enough. In doing so, I was able to change one whole side, radiator as well, by lifting at the middle of the cab. Is there an advantage to this? I guess it's personal.
- I have seen some posts about removing or not using the top washers (making noise?). The mechanic that did mine to start with did not use them. (Don't ask me why & yes. I got my money back.) So far the result has been that the sleeves on the radiator mounts pushed up into the bolt holes about 1/2 inch. I had to use plyers to work at getting the sleeve out. It was pretty jambed in as you can imagine.
- there seems to be a lot of discrepancy between what mounts are needed for position 2 & 3. My advice is to cross reference ES, &/or whatever co. you are purchasing from, with stock & with other members. Don't just go with one source. For instance one member ordered the "correct" ES kit for his truck. It had a thinner top bushing for position 3. He then removed the stock mounts & found that position 2 & 3 top bushings were the same. He then had to wait for ES to send another set of the same as position 2. I have "heard" other similar scenarios, different twists. One note about this is that I am tending towards this pertaining more to 1st gen. Replacement frame? Tilt corrected by a previous owner? I dunno. Just might suck to have to wait for parts or put the wrong ones in.

 

@Kristi with a K

I have seen other members on here have similar issues with various ES kits as well. I believe you are right in that you'd want to check them out and make sure you have the "right" parts before starting- especially if this is your DD. I guess I got "lucky" when I ordered the "master kit" for my '02.

I definitely used the washers when I was installing and my previous research on here suggested that the squeaking was due to over-torquing- not necessarily the washers themselves.

Also, I made sure to grease (using the packet that comes with the kit) everything before torquing the nuts/bolts to the frame. If lifting the cab in the middle gave you access to one whole side- that's awesome. I don't anticipate doing this again for a LONG time- if ever- but that's solid advice.

If you got one side installed, you're almost there!

Glad we could talk you into doing this yourself. If you have any more questions, concerns, anything- I'm happy to help in any way I can. Glad you could get it done without having to take a "road-trip" across the country!

 

I remember now... Finding these torque specs was a little bit of a challenge when I did it- they are not in the FSM. I'm about 99% sure that 34 ft/lbs IS the correct torque spec.

Also, if you don't want to use my write-up, here is another one for you:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/body-mount-bushing-install-now-with-pictures.432885/