Old injector tips left behind. Should I just remove the manifold?

Working on my fuel injectors. All 6 easily came out/stayed in the fuel rail and left their tips behind. I started with the cylinder 5/newest one and it is breaking. Do i just remove the manifold and knock them out the other way at this point? Other ideas?

 

I took my truck to the shop for the knock sensors las fall. I wonder if they just threw the injectors back in after the tips came off like that...

 

The rubber grommet on end of the injector sometimes stays in the manifold
Not a problem

can’t see the injector that broke/cracked though

I used a pick or angled awl to get the grommet out…..shop vac would help get loose bits out as well

 

should have sprayed the base of the injectors with a lubricant prior to removing, would have helped along with careful manipulation....

some tips appear to be broken & debris fell in im assuming....

#3 in back left corner...

the others will just pick out, spray them....
the oring sticks..

 

UPDATE: I got advice from a mechanic friend to just go ahead and take it off.
Had some success.

and a new, bigger problem






Any advice for screw extraction from the block?

 

Knee deep now. Heat, PB blaster, a good extraction set. Worse case is drill perfectly center if all else fails. Worse case after that is a time cert.

 

If you have never done this before take the head off and take it to an auto machine shop. The simple job of injectors could turn to a cylinder head replacement REALLY fast. The next dilema is if you take the head off and you look at the valves and you dont like what you see, do you take the other head off and have the valves done, this is mission creap at its worst. The silver lining is that you arent paying someone $175 hour to do it, look at all of the money you are saving...

 

Ouchy.

what worries me is that ‘band’ that starts at 11 O’clock. Not a clean break

 

I snapped a valve cover bolt on a EJ25
The bolt was on bottom
I had to remove motor mounts
Drop engine onto subframe
Notched subframe
Notched
R angle drill housing
Just to get clearance to attempt
Was my 1st time doing a bolt extraction

same boat as you, fucking it up meant
Engine out/new head or helicoil

I kept the bolt as a trophy

 

Mine was a clean flat break

 

Good thing
You have plenty of room

bad thing
Your break not clean
Manifold bolt larger

Mech told me to use expensive drill bit(I did). Not the opo side of the reverse threaded extraction kit

just remember a mistake here will be expensive

 

Thanks for the input ControlCar. I have a few years of general/college machine shop experience just very little mechanic experience. I definitely plan to get a carbide or good high-speed steel bit and be very carful. Will try to set my center with a punch and center drill first. Ya if I miss and go into the cylinder head ... time cert indeed. Thanks guys, I'll keep you posted how it goes.

Any ideas on where to get replacement hardware?

 

Spot on plan
Carbide bit
Center punch the shit out of that bolt
High quality extraction set

I would clean up the remaining portion of bolt with dremel too

Once i knew that drill hole was centered, I almost doubled the depth of “what I thought” would be deep enough.
Was thinking…..I got one chance at this

after that is done…..would definitely plumbers torch the area for min or two
GL!!!!

 

Update. Thoughts on boring it out and going up to a 10mm? Broke an extractor off. I will try to grind it out, then step up in drill sizes until I can pick the bolt threads out. I fear I am highly likely to blow out the threads on the aluminum head when I do that though. Currently an M8x1.25

 

Got it ground down far enough that I could chase it with a carbide bit now… probably just grind it all the way out though.

 

That 1st pix looks good as far as depth of hole
Don’t forget lil heat
Once tape starts shriveling, don’t heat too much more

 

Many hours of slow dremel, drill, and tap activities later… The stuff of dreams! We’ll see if the original threads are strong enough for the bolt tomorrow!

 

great job!!

IMO
Those threads won’t hold….could get tight but then .003 of a twist too much, will strip
Too important of a engine component to have “less than tight”

try using a Heilcoil
Typically once installed, stronger than original fastener

once correct heilcoil size bought($15-20)
Extra 1hr needed to install
And piece of mind

lemme see if I can find my HC kit I used on a Honda head…..

 

Found it

 

Absolute minimum run a blind tap down those threads to clean them up.