Old Man Emu

I would not reccomend the Timbrens. They limit your travel, cause you to bounce off them at speed and your shocks can't control them as they act like a spring but your shocks are set up for your spring force, not the spring plus bouncing off the Timbrens. If you run Dakars you won't need em. Do you really only want an inch or two of suspension travel till you hit you bumpstops?

 

completely wrong. two completely different things. if anything, the flip-kit protects the u-bolt assembly

exactly.


im out for the night btw. just think about it - it's a lot of new info for you to consider - it will make more sense as it all "marinates". And do searching in the meantime on these specific things and im sure that will help a lot

 

Thanks Erik. All of this has been very helpful.

 

I'm looking in to the full OME kit w/ 885, dakar, 10mm top plates, and LR UCAs. From what I've read, this will get me ~3" and somewhat level the truck. I'll be hauling stuff in the bed every now and then, and don't want the back to look terrible with a load. So anyone please correct me if I'm understanding this wrong.

Has anyone needed to swap the brake lines with this setup? Haven't seen much talk about them, but I wouldn't mind throwing on some SS lines while I'm under there. Granted, I've yet to experience any brake fade, so may not be completely necessary. Any info is appreciated!

 

Extended rear brake lines are a great idea if you are going to be offroading a considerable amount. The front is not as important because there is less travel in the brake lines due to the way they are set up.

 

Hey all,

not sure if I should post this as a new thread or not....just purchased a 2013 dcsb 6m, take posseison next week...YEA!!! I worked a deal to get it lifted from the dealership, there sending it out and getting an OME 3"lift, what exactly is in this lift? I have a 2010 now with a 3"Revtek in it, but am being told the OME is up there near the high side of quality for lifts??? Also should taking looking to "beef" up and components now while there lifting it??? springs, shocks, etc...or is that part of the kit?

any help would be great, thank-you

 

OME kit comes with beefed up shocks and springs. Next step would be to get aftermarket UCAs (upper control arms). This will help strengthen things and get better alignment/travel.

 

This thread has been really helpful. I think it solidified my decision. I'm now wanting to get the full OME kit including Dakar leaf pack + ubolt flip kit + Light Racing UCA's. Then someday I'll get bigger tires (32's or 33's).

 

Oh... I forgot to ask and maybe this is warrants a different thread. I've seen people highly recommend the diff drop and others say it isn't necessary. Is there a definitive answer or is it all opinion?

 

^diff drop is a good idea to protect your CV boots, but not necessary.

MY question: Is anybody running the OME 3" lift and NOT had an issue with alignment?? I'd rather not have to dish out the money for new UCAs as they would be more expensive than they actual lift.

 

1st gen , yes
2nd gen , most here consider them uneffective

 

My front coils on an '02 blew fluid just outside warranty and they wouldn't sent me a swapper to fill in during the rebuild. Got some race runners and decided to never do business with Icon again

 

Yeah I like my OME too much. I think after this my next stage will be LT up front. And for that go with something like TC or Camburg. Icon isn't bad, but not my cup of tea I think, and no way in heck I am going with allpoo LT kit.

 

I know this was a while ago, any response to this ?

 

The diff drop doesn't do anything on the 2nd gens. It rotates the diff more than dropping it. There's is no need to do it on a 2nd gen.

If you're spending the money for a OME lift then do it the right way and put the new UCA's on it so your truck can be aligned right. I installed LR UCA's when I put the lift on and haven't had one issue with the alignment. If you get the full OME lift what's $400 more to finish it up right?

 

Anyone running the newest of new OME BF51 kit!?

 

Yes me I love it.

 

Some pics below, also my solution for the lost splash guards
So it's been a few days since the install and I am very happy with the new suspension. Most noticeable at first is the lack of body roll and lack of front end dip when braking. Its a very smooth, controlled ride. The truck tracks true and straight. The setup absorbs bumps big and small with style, Stuff that would bottom out my 07 with 886s (with bullbar/winch) is absorbed much better and more smoothly with the BP-51. The on road ride is much better too with none of the harshness from little bumps/ road imperfections that I remember from my last OME setup. I left the adjustable compression / rebound settings as they are from the factory for now as I want to get a feel for the way it is set now before fiddling with them. There are no sounds or squeaks at all.

My 2015 TRD sport stock suspension was OK but now looking back it was a little "boatlike". I now feel a tangible connection to the road surface at each wheel. This is my second go-round with dakars and they are great and fit my needs for load hauling but the consensus is, and I agree, they do ride better with a load. I'll be happy to get my leer shell (150#?) this week.

One thing I noticed, ( while checking for leaks obsessivly because of @Sandman614 's experience) is that the drivers side remote rez gets HOT from exposure/proximity to the engine. As we know shocks convert bumps into heat so this is a problem, plus it's probably not too good for the shock either. The mud shield thingy had to go when mounting the remote reservoirs. I am going to try to mount the flap on the inside of the frame. I may have to drill a hole or two but some of the original mounting holes are present on the inside as they pass all the way through. I still have the flaps and the clips intact, i just need to swap sides or pull the clips and insert the other way. I may buy some heat shield material and add it to the mud shield when I install, as i sit at idle for long periods of time. Either way this heat issue needs to be handled ASAP, as each time I drive the truck the rez is hot to the touch after.
I'll have more to report after I take it up north to mendocino and spend some more time on dirt.







I was unhappy about the mud/splash guard being removed, I want to protect my engine compartment from flying debris and water. Plus the drivers side remote rez was getting very hot due to proximity to the engine and because the radiator hose nearly rests on the rez itself. So I went and bought an innertube (10$) some aluminum sheet insulation with adhesive on one side (18$) and some Toyota factory clips (15$). Also some 3m tape and high heat metal duct tape.


Washed the pieces to help the adhesive stick, don't tell my gal lol


Here's the stuff I used, with the part # of the clips

I reused the factory holes so no drilling, I did the drivers different than the passenger because I put more insulation on that side

 

Appreciate the info Augustus!I was at the Overland Expo West(Flagstaff,AZ.)this May(2016)and noticed a handful of Tacoma's running this setup!I didn't inquire about the product but have been curious!Look foward to hearing your follow up/updates when convenient!

 

How much lift did you get out of this lift? Somewhere I read it was designed for 2" of lift. Can it be cranked to 3" and not be over extended?