OME BP-51 Install Report and Height Adjustment

Can you do center of the hub to the fender? That way it takes wheel/tire out of it

 

22.5” from center hub to fender on front.
23.5” from center hub to fender on rear.

Roughly measured since I don’t have a specific hard surface to run the tape against.

 

So I have a situation....
With lots of time, have been wanting to get BP-51 for a while now on my '18 6MT OR. Have SSO hybrid slimline up front with winch synthetic line, and roll-n-lock in back. Purchased from Headstrong (thanks Marie!) and installed the rears. When they came in, noticed that the front coilovers had been set at 5mm rather than the factory 20mm, so took them in to local shop and had the coils compressed and collar changed to 20mm driver side, 18mm passenger. When I got the passenger all lined up and in position, the top hat bolt holes do not line up. Took it back out and noticed that the top of the shock and the lower mount appear to be 'off axis' from one another.

In the picture, the red line lines up with the lower mount, the wood stick are on either side of the upper shock.

This set of coils BENT the compressor the shop had. The compressor also did scratch up the outer body in one spot, not fired up to take it back in. It was the first time I think they had ever tried working on BP-51's and I was right there to watch.

I submit to the group the following questions:
1) does this require a spring compressor part deux to untwist?
2) Can I use my dad type technique of applying enough pressure till it moves without causing damage, or is that likely to result in death of a shock absorber?

 

couple things. 5mm is the new “factory” setting. Since 20mm is meant for a full bumper and a winch. Their bumper I might add, which weighs 2x then most other bumpers.

as for the off line deal. 2 options, you can take it back in and have them align it by placing it back in the compressor and taking the pressure off. Or, you can bolt the top down and place a pry bar through the bottom eyelet and twist until it’s inline. Either option will be fine and won’t hurt them.

 

Agreed with how to line that back up. I had the same issue after I set my preload a few weeks ago however I just removed them and used my compressor to straighten them back out.

Also my coilovers were shipped with one at 5mm and the other at 20mm so I’m pretty sure they aren’t setting them any certain way. Lol

 

lol. They are supposed to be set at 5mm from the factory. Wild you got one of each.

 

Thanks for the info, the bolt top and pry method had occurred to me, but the bottom eyelet will not line up so the top cap will not seat, and I am running out of flex in the LCA unless I remove the axle. I was trying only to remove the driver's side when I do the ECGS bushing swap. I ordered the spring compressor that Hodokaguy used in his write up so that I can edit the height as I need/want to with future weight comes on. Living in Florida gives limited options for rock crawling, but I realized that I bent the back skid (which looks as thick and as strong as a cookie sheet) on roots last time out in the woods, so when I can make it happen new skids will be ordered to go with my existing sliders.

I may fabricate something that will capture the screws from 3/4 inch Marine Ply that would give me the arm needed to pry on it, if I get too ansy.

 

you can also mount the lower eyelet mount and use a pry bar between 2 of the 3 bolts up top to align it. Have to be more careful not to damage anything in this scenario. Might be better to just take it back where you had it done and have them fix it.

 

Dear Rooster,
You rock, and if you'd like a long distance high five and some beers, I'd be happy to send some along. PM Address. I don't have a pry bar, but the bottom eyelet linked up with the top using two of the screws and my four way lug wrench worked perfectly to square it up. Tomorrow, drivers side and ECGS bushing swap! Thanks again.
Frank

 

So I’ve come to TW to get some minds thinking. I installed my bp51 kit, SPC UCA’s and front and rear diffs back in Jan. Have since put about 3,300 miles on the truck. About three weeks back I started hearing a loud pop sound on left hand turns coming out of a drive way. Or if I hit a small bump on a left hand turn. Its coming from the front end left hand side for sure. It almost sounds like it’s coming from the coil the type of noise that is or maybe the sway bar? I

t doesn’t always happen but has consistently been happening now and then under these scenarios. Not sure where to start checking. Maybe just go around and re torque all nuts make sure I havnt missed anything or anything loosened up.

 

glad it worked out. Not sure where you are from, but if I’m ever out that way, I’ll let you buy the first round.

 

worth a shot checking all the nuts/bolts first. You can totally remove the sway bar and see if the sound persist. Would eliminate the sway bar at least.

 

North Central Florida, two hours north of Mickey. The slightly less crazy part of the state. Be glad to!

I was thinking of removing my sway bar while I have it all apart. With the adjustability of these, does it make sense just to get rid of it and increase front end compression damping one notch? Will it start swaying much more without it? Mixed reviews on the boards for sway delete.

 

I’ve removed sway bars on jeeps I’ve owned and did notice more body roll on turns at highway speeds. Not enough to make me worry about it. Bought a QD kit for one jeep for the sway bar, but would just run it without the bar anyway.

I haven’t tried running my Tacoma without the sway bar, so I can’t really speak to it.

also, I’ll be in Panama City, Florida the first week in August if everything settles down by then. Already booked the place. I know it’s not near central Florida though. I have a good friend that lives in Saint Petersburg.

 

Is the front coil supposed to be damn near touching the inner shock? On the inner side of the shock it’s got maybe less than 1/8” clearance and about 1/2”+ on the outer portion. Cool looks centered on both the upper and lower portions. Right side looks better but was investigating my pop issue and noticed this. Hard to tell in the photos but is anyone else’s this tight?


Edit. Just re checked it’s damn near touching in one spot can barely fit a single piece of printer paper through but when foled x4 so 4 sheets won’t fit. That’s a very tight clearance. I never adjusted pre load just installed at factory 5mm out of the box. Right side has plenty of clearance. Might have to call arb

 

what happened to your spring that peeled back the coating?

 

I was wondering the same thing.

 

So an update on my bp51 issue. There is clearance, but measured to about 10 thousands of an inch of clearance with a feeler gauge. I reached out to arb and so far they are backing away from it saying it’s not an issue but to monitor it if it rubs. Hard to pin point what exactly is causing the issue other than a faulty coil or a bent shock absorber shaft. Seems like they’re not concerned tho.

edit* corrected clearance is .012 or 12 thousands of an inch, or three pieces of thin printer paper.

 

It's weird that it's such a tight clearance but I would agree that if it's not rubbing, it shouldn't be a problem. There should be no movement or flex and if there is, there's other issues.

 

ill ride it for a while and see if it rubs