OME leaf spring install question - 1996 XCab

Hi everyone,

I'm new to posting on the forum, though I've lurked on it a fair bit. I signed up and am writing because I've run into an issue I could use your help with concerning the install of a set of OME CS019R springs on a 1996 Taco (4x4, xcab, 2.7L).

I set aside all day yesterday for the spring swap project thinking that would be more than enough to get the job done. It was not - I ran into rust, etc. Things were finally looking up when I got the new springs in place in the back - got the shackle positioned with the dogleg / angle toward the rear and...can't get the front eye in position. The OMEs are so curvy vs. my old, flat springs that there's about a 3-inch eye-to-eye difference in a straight line (though they're the same when measuring the arc). The only way I was able to get the front bolt in was to rock the shackles all the way forward (see attached pic). It works, but it creates two problems:

• The center point for the axle placement is ~2 inches forward...and I can't get the axle (still bolted to the other, old spring on opposite side) to pivot that far forward to the new location
• The spring should flatten under load, but I don't see how I get the shackle to the desired dogleg angle (the reverse of the current angle) as I apply load

Concerning the first issue: I tried advancing the axle with a ratchet strap to position it, but I could only halve the distance between the centering pin on the spring and the corresponding notch in the axle. My only thought at this point is to loosen the bolts on the other spring to create some lateral slop / play in the axle... but I'm leery of doing so, as I don't have the whole back-end jacked--just the right side where I'm working).

For the second issue: I'm not sure about this one, though it's a moot point if I can't address the first issue. Assuming I get the axle bolted to the spring, I'm thinking maybe I just bang on it after applying a little bit of jack pressure--that as the spring flattens I can reverse the angle at the critical point. But I'm not sure that will work.

Any experience with such issues? Any advice?

All thoughts welcomed - appreciated.

 

Update: I've been asking around, and there's a question whether these springs are simply too short. I talked to ARB tech support twice before buying them, and they assured me this is the correct spring for a '96--which was consistent with things I've read here and in other forums.

But looking at the shackle angle in the photo (especially vs. the older (albeit flat) one on the far side), a couple friends are thinking it doesn't look like these fit my '96 truck. I'm the second owner, but I bought it low mileage from the first owner who didn't do anything but change the oil--which I believe. I'm not sure why my truck would be special, but that's the opinion of a friend that's more experienced with suspensions/modifications than I am.

Anyone have thoughts or opinions in light of this update? Again, any thoughts are appreciated.

 

This is how I did mine...


For the rear, install the extended rear brake line first. You want all the extra droop you can get when installing the dakars. I did it without doing that first and life would have been much easier had i done that. Also, im unsure if you have ABS but if you dont there is a little screw that holds the rear brake line to the diff. You can take that screw off to get just a bit more droop. Also something i did was doing one leaf pack at a time. Take both stock leaf packs out. Put jack stands under the rear diff and the hydraulic jack under the pumpkin so it stays in place then adjust as needed.

Like so:




Then put the leaf pack in the front hanger and put the bolt in. Make sure the bottom isin the center pin hole of the diff. With the dakar pack, you might have to put your axle a bit forward (at least thats what i had to do to mine.) Then to get the rear into the shackle i ofund it to be very helpful to use a scissor jack to move it into place.




Then when you need to put the bumpstops on, you will have to drill out the bottom ofthe bumpstop so it fits over the new center pin.






Then it should look something like this...




Here is the extended brake line





Also, i recommend you cut the exhaust. Ididn't bother with the exhaust relocation plate. Oh! and if you havent already, get a brake proportioning relocation plate! Helpsso you dont warp your rotors, and leaves the braking feeling normal.





Lastly, you will hear some popping when you pull out for the first time after, thats just the U bolts settling and they should stop afterawhile.



TORQUE DOWN YOUR U BOLTS AFTER 200 MILES! Mine were getting loose but after torquing them down again all is well.

Here is a torque guide...


Per the FSM, u-bolt torque spec is 90 lb-ft.

The leaf pack center bolt is 33 lb-ft.

Front eyelet bolt is 116 lb-ft.

Rear shackle bolts are 67 lb-ft.

Shock absorber bolts are 53 lb-ft.


If you have any other question feel free to ask.

 

This is really helpful, thanks. I'd already gotten over my initial problems by the time I received this--I had to reposition the jacks, pull the second wheel, and loosen the u-bolts on the other side. That made it easy to reposition the axle where I needed it. A little yarding using all my arms and legs got it centered in correct position. Then it got dark, so I haven't gotten to the other side. I appreciate the advice concerning the extensions and proportioning relocation plate - I'll look into those.

As an aside, I send the pics above to ARB and they agreed it was a pretty extreme reverse angle unweighted. Their recommendation was to get everything installed and see where it settles. Not what I hoped to hear, but we'll see.

Thanks again.