OME lift kit vs. Toytec Ultimate Coilover kit

The spacer with the OME kit is just a minimal one (1/4"). The trim packer is even less (5mm). If I understand it right, the spacers used to lift the truck reduce the amount of suspension travel. Thus reducing ride quality and so on. I'm pretty sure I have that right, but if I don't, someone will be along soon to straighten us out.

 

The operative word in the description of the Toytec kit is ADJUSTABLE.
I am now at the point where my front end has settled in and I am going to lift the front coilovers a little more to level out the truck. since I did not have the front end installed at the full three inches, I can lift the front end a little more with a spanner wrench. No further disassembly or assembly required.

 

ok im in the same boat.. im at stock right now and i do 50-50 street and dirt/gravel want something that i can do some good offroad stuff in help please?

 

What's your budget?
PM sent.

 

i'm with Tacomamoose as well. looking for a decent lift kit that won't require major mods to the Taco besides some trimming for tire rubbing.

thanks

 

I spent a significant amount of time doing research, and I went with a OME setup.

-I have pictures here and here. Yes, I'm still running stock tires.
-Cost of material, shipping, and front spring assembly was approximately $850 for my setup.
-From my research, OME continued to show better build quality and performance. Considering that I wanted something that was more than looks, I had my mind made up.
-For on-road driving, comfort has either increased or is about the same. If anything, I would say things are more responsive.
-I don't see a need for adjustments. I haven't done any measuring, but I don't see any 'Taco lean', or it's so insignificant that everyone needs to be bitchslapped. Maybe it's something that happens over time... As far as rake, my truck was born with a slight rake. Most vehicles have a rake. in any case, it's such a slight thing that people really need to consider why they dumped the extra cash on that when they could have bought sliders, stereo mods, or been that much closer to some new rims/tires.
-Installation was time consuming, but as long as you have basic tools and a good socket set, it seemed straightforward. I would recommend having some help on the front install, trying to fit in the longer shocks takes some prying. Driver's side went in real nice, but passenger side for some reason was a bit more difficult. We disassembled enough pieces to get the LCA to move freely, then I stood on the disc brake, another guy used a pry bar, and a third guy maneuvered the shock in place. Sounds hard, but it's really just using some muscle.
-Anyone with install worries should invite forum members from their area over to help. We had a guy post up that he needed help, and within a day he had two available garages and nearly 20 volunteers.

 

How large a tire do you want to go?
And what is your budget for the project?

 

i'd prob be fine w/ 33's or similar size, probably on either 17 or 18's, but if a 16 would be better for whatever reason, i am open to that as well.

as for budget, i don't really have one, i'd rather get a quality product at a good price than the cheapest one available or the best for XXX amount. i haven't really shopped prices, so i'm not even sure of the true range of prices, so i'd guess i'd need to know that before i gave a price.

i will say i want a good onroad ride as this is currently my daily driver and i won't be going off-road all that often.

so hopefully based on all of this you can determine a good setup for me. if i need to clarify anytjhing or you have additional questions, please let me know.

thanks!

 

With the 886's do you need the top plate spacer to get the full 3"? I thought I read somewhere you didnt need it with the 886's?

 

A smaller rim size would be better for offroad driving, as this gives you more rubber. Since you are on-road, you don't need to care as much. The main concern is backspace on the rim or purchasing wheel spacers to correct rubbing the UCA, etc., as you move to a wider tire.

Your 3 categories for the front is basically OME, Bilstien, or (for lack of a better term) high-performance coilover, such as King, Fox, ICON, SAW.... Since you are mainly road use and won't be pushing things really hard, the high performance coilover category is unnecessary. OME or Bilstien are your two categories to focus on (well, there's some other choices in there, but they aren't as common and I didn't get much research - such as Revtek).
Either choice should perform admirably on-road, but my votes lie with OME. From my readings, I get the impression that the front Bilsteins are trying to cover too many categories on too tight of a budget. They want to compete with lower-priced lifts, but have the adjustment you see on the high-performance coilovers. As a result, they don't perform as well offroad as the competition, and the adjustment pieces are somewhat cheap. However, these issues should not totally deter you - you won't notice a performance issue on-road, and the need to adjust is kind of a 'set it and forget it' sort of deal.
NOTE that this is merely what I have seen from ~3 months of reading other people's experiences, so I'm not an authority - I urge you to prod at these issues yourself.

For the rear, you need to focus more on what you are doing with leafs. Are you doing an AAL? Full replacement? Progressives? Airbags?

-A quality AAL is the common choice. Getting a bad AAL will actually reduce cargo capacity, good ones will either add or have a net effect of no capacity change. Either way will provide lift. For my personal setup, I had the TSB springs installed and purchased my AAL from Wheeler's Offroad, which is supposed to up my bed capacity.
-A full replacement is a step above the AAL. It adds the capacity, plus gives you better articulation. Articulation is really only important offroad, and depends on how much you really need that extra flex. At this point, if I jack up one side of the rear of the truck, put about a 1.5' tall block under the frame near the rear tire, then remove the jack, my tire will touch the ground. I didn't have more wood sitting around to test any further, but you get the idea.
-Progressives i haven't done any real research on, but my understanding is it's a step a bit above a regular AAL.
-airbags are the end-all-be-all of adding bed capacity. I don't know if you can add this to a lift, but if you need to haul elephants in the bed, here's a starting point.

As mentioned, I don't think you will have a problem either way.

 

I believe you would be okay, not sure what kind of weight you have added to your truck. If it begins to sag just throw on the spacers.

 

Eventually might be putting on a ARB and winch, so probably need to go with the top plate spacers, right?

 

I wouldn't put the spacer on until you get the ARB and winch. I have all pro front bumper on and with the extra weight I'm still getting more the 2.5" of lift in the front. I'm at 38 5/8 to the bottom of the fender with 265/70/16 tires on. Just wait on the spacers, I kind of wish I didn't get the 886 now because i have about 2-3 inches of down travel before my shocks or UCA's bottom out. Oh and FYI, you can't use the crappy spring compressor form auto-zone on the 886, they will need to be assembled by a mechanic. I paid a shop down the street $50 to do mine.

 

If I go this route, which I probably will, I am either going to get the 886's, spacer, and bumper all at once, OR I will just get 885's for now and down the road jump up to the 886's when I get the ARB

 

I can't even imagine putting spacers on mine, I would have 0 down travel. I think the ARB bumper is heavier though so you might be able to get away with it, but let a shop assemble them for sure.

 

MOUNTAINWOLFPUP!!!!!!!!! Ok maybe i'll PM him Thanks

Edit: I looked at his post, he isnt running the spacer,, but only has 2" of lift. I already have 285's on so I am probably just going to do the 885's. Hopefully the lift will just be temporary

 

First I apologize if this post has been beaten to death more times than people can count but if someone can spare a min to answer some noob questions.

truck is '07 4x4 and i want to put a 3" lift on. I'm pretty sure I'd prefer to go the route of OME kit however is it everythign you need for the lift or are there any extra's? (I just recall on the 2nd page of the post someone posting about spacers and other misc parts bring the total cost up around $900).

Do you need/recommend UCA's right off the bat or install, drive and see if you need them?

Do you need to drop your fwd diff? What if you don't do it?

For me...my driving is 90% street, 10% dirt although i'd like to eventually get into more offroading but i know it probably won't happen with the little free time i have but I don't mind paying for quality ride over ease of assembly. I think i might try putting this on myself although being mechanically inclined I have very little exp with auto's....would you recommend OME to do myself or take to a shop? Is there an online install guide anywhere?

Help!

 

Well, you can get away without UCA's, but in order to get your alignment as perfect as possible you would want them. If you get the complete OME 3" kit, it comes with everything you will need. I believe Chris4x4 is saying you do not need the Diff drop. If you have someone that can help you that knows somewhat what they are doing you should be able to do it. The only thing is you will need to rent a spring compressor to assemble the coilovers.

 

Some places sell kits, other sites require you to pick out the pieces. Here's what I bought from Wheeler's to give you an idea of all the components:

OME N140S Front Shock Set
OME 885 Coil Set
OME N182 Shock Set
OME FK29 Driveline Packer Kit
2005-Current Tacoma 1.5 Lift Rear Leaf Set ACH22
DAY BU30000 Stud Kit and 10mm top spacers (this is usually sold together, Wheeler's calls it a 'lift enhancer kit')

Beyond what I have posted, you may need rims or wheel spacers as you move to larger tires (of course, that's dependent on the tire you choose).

The worst that is going to happen is that you will cause unnatural wear on the tires.

This is more a concern for 6" lifts to correct the angle of the CV joint. By lifting, you change that angle, causing more wear and tear. For the 3", the change is minimal and doesn't warrant the need for a front diff drop. It is better to not get the drop at this point because you would otherwise loose clearance and spend money on unnecessary stuff.

You probably SHOULD get the driveline spacer, though, to reduce chance of vibration in the driveline. It's a $12 part and installs in ~5 minutes.

The only install difference I see between an OME and a Bilstein is that the Bilstein fronts are preassembled. This becomes a moot point though: I had my local shop do the assembly for $50, which was chump change considering the work needed. Other than that, it's the same process.


Here's a video on how to install on a Tundra... pretty much same process

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdh0I_KA7ZY