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OME Pre-Order Decisions and Checklist!

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by BassMaster06, Mar 29, 2012.

  1. Apr 20, 2012 at 12:12 PM
    #121
    medic2230

    medic2230 @Koditten Pirate Radio member #002

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    20% Tint, OME 3"complete lift with Dakar's, Light Racing UCA's, 285/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 10 HP TW sticker, Ultraguage, B.A.M.F. Rock Sliders, MedicFab Bed Rack, Relentless front bumper, Air Flow Snorkel, Ham comms, Tech Deck
    Did you order your kit yet?
     
  2. Apr 20, 2012 at 12:19 PM
    #122
    BassMaster06

    BassMaster06 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Good to know!

    My lift is sitting in the garage on the pool table collecting dust for now :frusty: Just haven't had a free weekend, and I'm nervous about tearing into it and trying to get it done in one night. I have a completely free weekend 2 weeks from now, so that's the plan.
     
  3. Apr 20, 2012 at 12:21 PM
    #123
    BassMaster06

    BassMaster06 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Did you get new UCA's? If so how, how difficult of a task was it to install those?
     
  4. Apr 20, 2012 at 12:30 PM
    #124
    medic2230

    medic2230 @Koditten Pirate Radio member #002

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    Well my advice is start at the front. That will take you the longest. The back is easy as hell. Mine took about 8 hours total. Are you doing the LR UCA's too? This was also my first time doing a lift kit and it wasn't bad at all. You will need someone else there to help some. You are going to be pleasantly surprised at how high it sits when you get the front done. If you are doing the UCA's get a pickle fork to knock them apart from the spindle. That is a lot faster than banging on the spindle with a 3 lb hammer till it decides to come apart. Also make sure you have a torque wrench so you can torque everything back down to specs. You will need a 1 1/4" socket for the LR UCA's to tighten the nut on top. Make sure you have a set of deep well sockets for the U bolts in the rear and will also need them tightening the nuts on the shock at the tower. The back bolt on the top of the shock will need to be tightened with a wrench as a socket and handle won't fit there. On my UCA bolts I just put them back in from the front cause I didn't want to mess with the brake lines running on the back side and all the metal was bent out of the way anyway so it was just as easy to put them back in that way.
     
  5. Apr 20, 2012 at 12:31 PM
    #125
    medic2230

    medic2230 @Koditten Pirate Radio member #002

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    Yes, I got the Light Racing one's.
     
  6. Apr 20, 2012 at 12:33 PM
    #126
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    Installing the LR UCA's is pretty simple once you get over the fact you have to bend the fender metal to get the bolt out , that or cut it and replace it
     
  7. Apr 20, 2012 at 12:35 PM
    #127
    medic2230

    medic2230 @Koditten Pirate Radio member #002

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    It didn't take long to dump the cloth I had around the fender and protecting the fender from the crescent wrench I was bending it with. I didn't have a problem with bending mine, in fact it's still bent right now. lol :)
     
  8. Apr 20, 2012 at 12:38 PM
    #128
    BassMaster06

    BassMaster06 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Good deal, thanks for the info, and yep I got the Light Racing UCA's from the group buy on here a while back from metal tech 4x4

    Hmm interesting....As long as its not really noticeable, I don't think I'll have an issue with having to do that. Thanks OZ
     
  9. Apr 20, 2012 at 12:42 PM
    #129
    medic2230

    medic2230 @Koditten Pirate Radio member #002

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    Nope, the only one that knows it will be you. see my post above.

    You can always bend it back.
     
  10. Apr 20, 2012 at 12:50 PM
    #130
    BassMaster06

    BassMaster06 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yep I saw you had replied after I posted! Any other specific tools you needed for the installation? I got floor jacks and jack stands, but as far as tools go, I've been generating a list of tools in my head for the install, so I don't have any last minute "shit I don't have that".

    I got deep sockets, impact wrench, and torque wrench. From what I've read, I'll need flare wrenches for the extended break lines. I'll also need to track down a pickle fork. I'm gonna soak everything down with PB blaster or something similar the night before I get started. Anything else I'm missing or recommendations?
     
  11. Apr 20, 2012 at 1:00 PM
    #131
    medic2230

    medic2230 @Koditten Pirate Radio member #002

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    Have that big crescent wrench for the leaf spring bolt on the front of the rear spring. You can't get a socket in there. I used the following:

    Socket sets 1/2 and 3/8
    Torque wrench
    1 1/4" socket
    crescent wrench
    Hand wrenches
    jack stands
    floor jack
    1/4" socket extension to knock the UCA bolt out.
    3' pry bar (to get LCA down the little bit to get the shock in. It's a pain finding the right spot to pry with but you will get it. Also when the friend is putting the shock in while you pry.)
    a friend
    marlboro's

    That should get you right there. I didn't replace my rear brake lines as I had plenty of room on mine. I also didn't have to spray anything with PB blaster cause my truck is only 3 months old tomorrow. I think probably the biggest pain in the ass was getting the damn sway bar out of there. There are two brackets under the front skid plate you will see when you remove it. Take 3 of the bolts out of each one and swing them to the side and the sway bay bar will come out easy.
     
  12. Apr 20, 2012 at 1:04 PM
    #132
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    You don't HAVE to remove the sway bar .
     
  13. Apr 20, 2012 at 1:06 PM
    #133
    medic2230

    medic2230 @Koditten Pirate Radio member #002

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    No but it does give you a little more room to work in there.
     
  14. Apr 20, 2012 at 1:06 PM
    #134
    BassMaster06

    BassMaster06 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Awesome, that's a huge help. Much appreciated! Now I'm definitely itchin' to get it done!
     
  15. Apr 20, 2012 at 1:08 PM
    #135
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    You leave it out or put it back in ? We just swung it out of the way .
     
  16. Apr 20, 2012 at 1:10 PM
    #136
    medic2230

    medic2230 @Koditten Pirate Radio member #002

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    Get it on there!!!! I did mine at work and had to run calls while I was doing it so I didn't get finished in one day. If you run into any trouble or problems you can call me and I'll try to walk you through it. Don't do like I did and have to look up the torque specs while your doing it. Make sure you take measurement before and after.
     
  17. Apr 20, 2012 at 1:11 PM
    #137
    medic2230

    medic2230 @Koditten Pirate Radio member #002

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    Put it back. Was seriously debating on just leaving it out.
     
  18. Apr 21, 2012 at 12:06 PM
    #138
    4Wheelin4Banger

    4Wheelin4Banger Supercharged Toyman

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    You should take it out and try it without.
    A slight increase in body roll on road is worth the smoother ride on & off road + way better flexing off road.
    I looked for a way to easily disconnect it and get it out of the way to go wheeling and couldn't find one (didn't know if I wanted no sway bar with a 280 to 350 mile/week commute). So I took it off and tried it. Even on a freeway that wanders back & forth through the mountains at 75 mph it's no problem. As long as you don't try to drive you Taco like a sports car you wont have problems.
     
  19. May 3, 2012 at 7:33 AM
    #139
    medic2230

    medic2230 @Koditten Pirate Radio member #002

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    You get this damn thing on yet?
     
  20. May 3, 2012 at 7:43 AM
    #140
    BassMaster06

    BassMaster06 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Haha, no! It's going on this weekend. I finally got a free weekend, the girlfriend will be out of town, and I'll have the help of a couple buddies. The plan is to fish saturday morning, then come back and get started. Got everything gathered and ready to go. Finally! I know....

    Hows everything with your truck? Any issues or vibes you've noticed in the past couple weeks?
     

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