OME What's the real number?

Sub'd cuz Vik's a thorough lad.

Have ya the LR's installed yet son?

Interested in what dial-A-alignment specs ya got before and after.

 

I've heard on TW the the right shims will get rid of your vibes.

 

What was the final price for the kit? I have been trying to decide what to go with on mine. Figured at 120K is a good time as any to go up.

 

if you dont mind me asking, what size tires are you running now? 265/70/17? i am looking to do a similar lift asap, but wont be able to change out my 245/75/16's for another 4-6 months. i dont want the truck looking ridiculous for half a year, but i could deal with something like you've got going on there..
thanks

 

I got 3* shims and they help some, but I still have minor vibes. Thats with the dakar pack.

Everything will cost about $2,000 including the UCAs.

285s would work well

 

OP, I removed my 15mm spacers because my front was too high and I was worried too. It dropped me down about an inch. Now I'm at just over 24" center hub to fender. My UCAs and CVs look quite a bit better.

edit: and that's with my fender flares removed, so the measurement may be larger by about 1/2" than what it would be with the fenders on.

 

I did get my LR UCA's installed and told the alignment shop I wanted 0 toe, 0 camber, and 2.4 caster. I came up with the caster # by taking an average of the values I found on TW. I don't live at the end of the earth but this is the last place you can get gas on your way there, so my choice of alignment professionals is to take it to the only front end shop in town or have the guy at the end of the bar in the tavern who says he can fix anything take a shot at it. I went to shop. They don't give ya any fancy smancy computer read outs with your final numbers they just tell ya to come pick er up! It drives nice.

I'm running 265/75/16's right now, that's prolly as big as I'm gonna go with tires but some big honkin 285's would sure look sweet. I might even go back to 265/70/16's which would be about an inch smaller in diameter but a hair wider and get me back to stock gearing (for gas milage) and get the speedo back to nuts on.

I don't have the rear axle shims and am not sure if I have enough vibes to worry about it.

I got most of my gear through Wheelers Offroad, the OME Complete kit was $1,069. I had them assemble the coils and shocks for another $200, added the 10mm spacers for $67 and shipping was about $120. I bought my LR UCA's from Fat Bob's Garage, give them a call, no one sells them for less. I live in Washington and Wheelers is in Oregon and Fat Bob's is in Utah so by getting the kit online I screwed the State out of sales tax, they can kiss my ass. That's about $1850 total and I prolly got another $100 or so in bolts, beer and other misc crap. Alignment was $50.

I am still a little unsure about the 10mm spacers. Love the near level look they provide but I am a little nervous about my CV angles. It's been about 2 weeks and no settlement yet. Got 23-3/4" front center hub to fender the way she sits. 24-3/4" in the back.

 

I just ordered the 885's with ome shocks all around for my 4x4 double cab as well. I see that you got around 3.5'' of lift up front. Has it settled any since the install? I want right at or just a hair over 3''. I am sort of going by your measurements as to whether or not I need the spacers or not, since we both have added weight of 4x4, dbl cab, and same lift. The only difference is that you have a long bed, and if I am remembering my math right, means that if I added the same 10mm spacer, I might end up at closer to 4''. I just would hate to get this lift on and end up with less than what I paid for; 3'', but at the same time, I don't want to go too far above 3'' and mess up anything. Please let me know if it has settled any lower than the 3.5'' you had.

thanks

 

Mine hasn't settled a bit! As a matter of fact I am torn between removing the spacers and leaving them in. My truck looks pretty level now and I like it but the CV angles look awful sharp and I do have some vibes to deal with. If I was starting over I would leave the spacers out! I think that after a few trips down the road you will end up with somewhere between 2-3/4" to 3-1/4" without the spacer.

 

I got the 885's , OME shocks and Dakars for my DCLB , and I am skipping the spacers .

 

Thanks for the quick response. If yours is still isn't settled after this long, then mine probably wouldn't be either if I get spacers; only mine would be a tad higher, which I don't really want. I appreciate it viking.

That's what I think I will do too. I'd rather play it a little safer the first time without the spacers and then come back and add a spacer if it settles too low for my liking.

How easy of a process would it be to add spacers after the fact?

 

You have to remove the strut , and add the spacer , this also requires longer bolts .

Check out Toytec's site for pics , I would get you a link but I am on my phone .

 

If you think there is any chance you may want to add spacers later on have the longer studs installed now when your coils are assembled. That way you won't have to disassemble the coil/shock unit to add spacers. It will save you time and money in the long run. You spend $15 for the stud kit now and it saves you from spending $50+ at the shop and down time to have the coils torn apart and studs installed. If you already have the studs in I think you could add or remove spacers in about 1.5 hours.

 

Good advice

 

What's the hold up OZ? You got that lift installed yet, or is it still laying on the shop floor?

 

It's in boxes still , closest I've come to installing it was I moved it to the other side of the shop .

Long story that is almost at an end hopefully . The lift , my cap and my Relentless Fab bumper will all be on before May .

 

i agree. way to think ahead and thanks.

 

Update

I 've been going back and forth thinking about removing my top plate spacers from the 885's to help out my CV angles and to see if it would help eliminate some of the vibes I have. This morning I decided to pull the 10mm spacers out. It took about 1hour and 15 minutes to complete. My truck now sits at 23-1/4" in the front and 24-3/4" in the back. So that gets me back to 3" of lift in front from the 885's alone and 2-3/4" in the back from the Dakars. The truck sits with just 1/4" less rake from front to back than stock and that looks pretty good. The CV angles are a bit better.

I also crawled under the truck and pulled a string line down the bottom of my drive shaft to see if my carrier bearing was in line with my 2 drive shafts heading to the rear end. When I installed my CB drop I was in a hurry to get the lift done and though I noticed there was some side to side slop in the mounting bolts I never took the extra 30 seconds to check my alignment before I cranked down the bolts.Well it turns out my CB was quite a bit out of line so after tapping it back into line and tightening everything back up it was time for a test drive.

Surprise, surprise the vibes are better. Since I did both the spacers and driveline alignment at the same time I can't say for sure which one helped more but I would guess it was the driveline. Now the vibes I have are minor and seem to go away when I click it into 4 wheel drive. That makes me think the front diff bearing may be bad like others have said. I will start reseaching that next. Anyone know what it cost to have theirs replaced???