OMG...issues. 12.8 charging, why?

Wow, I tried to search other threads before posting but, I didn't realize there were so many issues with 1st gens.

Oh well, not deterred.

Mine has had alternator and battery changed several times. I also replaced a wonky hook up to the battery.
My problem is, it will not charge more than 12.9v.
Running with lights on and it drops to 12.4v.
I've changed the negative battery lead out and relocated that ground.
Is my problem ground issues?

Kinda beating my head against a Taco wall, and not even in a good way.

 

I recently had a carquest brand new Alternator crap out after three months. Similar symptoms. Low voltage, lower with lights on, lower still with wipers on... Alt. was replaced again.

 

Take the alt off and take it down to the local auto parts store and have it bench tested to see if it is a bad part or a vehicle issue...

Check ALL your fuses, check ALL your grounds, using a DVOM do voltage drop test, check for a bad connection at the alt reg plug... Make sure you have battery voltage at the alt...

A simple way to test for bad grounds under the hood (the main ones) is to take your jumper cables and hook one end to the neg battery terminal and the other to the engine block or head, check for alt output, and then connect one end to the neg battery terminal and the other to the chassis (non painted metal area) test again, and lastly from the chassis to the engine block and test again... If the alt charges with one of those, well there is you ground issue...

Yes you could simply keep getting bad alternators when buying from AZ or the cheaper ones, especially if buying from Amazon and places like that...

Can you post a pic of the top of your battery showing the cable terminal ends??

 

I think I just saw your original post. I've gone through 2 Oreillys reman alternator with a LT warranty. Will try to upgrade to a Denso as soon as my bank account allows it.
Still looking into the grounding issues.

 

Thanks for this! I will try the battery cable thing soon.

 

Did you confirm they were bad before just throwing parts at it?? especially since you have replaced multiple ones...

 

Thanks for the pic.. On the blue chassis ground, the bolt looks rusted, how are the threads and the female threads as well as use a little sand paper and clean to bare metal at the bolt eyelet terminal, use some dielectric grease on it as well at the but connectors to prevent future corrosion... On the cable to the alt bracket, it looks a little grungy (from the pic anyway), clean that area as well as the threads going into the block/head, you need clean metal on metal, as well as make sure the alt pivot (through) bolt has clean threads as well as the bracket were the alt touches...

Basically, make sure ALL grounding areas are very clean where metal touches metal...

On the pos battery terminal, make sure it is all the way down the battery terminal post (like it is on the neg post), also make sure both terminals are tight enough that you can not twist them by hand... same with the wires going to it...

 

Yep. Haven't "thrown parts at it", sorry that wasn't clear. I suppose I expect people to take for granted that a 60s male should know basic troubleshooting procedures...my bad.
Each and every one has been tested. With gloriously failing numbers on all.
Thanks

 

Cleaned the bolt threads and used dremel on area of contact. The alternator mount also, but it's grungy because im waiting on valve cover gasket set.
Will do on all others! Thank you!

 

No issues, but you would be surprised to people that don't even know how to check their own oil level or air pressure...

 

The battery says 7/24, should still be good, but have you considered the battery may not be taking full voltage? I'd put it on a float charger overnight, see if it will take 13+ volts. That particular one has a three year warranty so if you keep receipts or paid with a debit/credit card and it's not taking full voltage it can be replaced.

 

Fortunately, I am the ASM of the store where I bought it...lol.
I've had it tested multiple times on the inside tester, it's been at 96% life and full capacity each time. Left it overnight to charge a week or two ago and passed testing with near perfect results.

I'm leaning toward the grounds being my issue but, further testing and diagnosis upcoming.

 

I guess I got the only good alternator at Oriellys. Thank god.

 

I had charging issues and tracked it down to wire chafing. It was the bundle of wires that go down the drivers side firewall from the fuse box. The insulation was rubbed off several of the wires, and the wire in one was mostly broken. Spliced it back together and has been working perfectly since.

 

Sometimes it might be the silliest of solutions. Back when I replaced my alternator (and upgraded all the wiring), I encountered a no-charge issue. Checked everything I thought I could - wiring grounds, etc.

So, turned out to be I hadn't fully pushed the alternator to fusebox connector fully. Push-click and everything worked as it should.

 

You can simply conduct a ground circuit test by placing voltmeter neg lead on neg batt terminal and pos lead on alternator housing with the engine running. A voltage reading above 0.1v per connection will indicate a resistance issue in your ground circuit.

 

Any luck? Im having the exact same issue rn. Checked the grounds i could find, cleaned them. Replaced all the fuses for the alt.

replaced alternator, and battery. Stumped

 

I am still struggling with it. I'm off today so im going to try all the "grounds" for tightness, cleanliness and just general is they there stuff.
If I make headway ill post what I did. Thank you all for the help. Anyone around here wants to Jimmy rig it and I want it right.

R

 

If you could let us know where all the ground locations are thatd be great. I could only find 3. On the body by the battery, right below the oil filter, and back of engine to the fire wall on the passenger side.


Also its weird this happened to us the exact same day. My light came on Thursday